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Resin & backing surface Question


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dornstac 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: July 26, 2005 at 6:17 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, I almost have all of the materials ready to start my first enclosure here, but I have a couple questions.

Does anyone mix the resin with anything to make it harden? or harden faster? I've never worked with it before.

Also, I have used a layer of scotch tape and then a second layer of blue painters tape to use as a backing for the firberglass, however this was a very tedious job and it took quite a while, it also gets all wrinkled in all of the curves so I was thinking of using tin foil as I have read that that's what some people do, I just have a hard time thinking that I will be able to stick resin & fiberglass mat to a WD40 sprayed piece of tin foil. I also have to stick fiberglass on a hanging surface and am scared of that task.

about bubbles.............when using a roller to get the bubbles out are you guys just referring to a conventional paint roller?

Any help is much appreicated in this predicament 

-Respect
realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: July 26, 2005 at 8:44 AM / IP Logged  
Hey there dornstack, first question when you buy your resin it should come with a small tube of liquid hardener. It will give you directions on how much hardener to mix in with the resin to make it harden. Be ready though cause once it starts it going to harden pretty quickly
If you could explain a little more of what your trying to do on your second question we might could help a little better.
The third question, they're referring to an actual fiberglass roller but theres no need for it really. I tried one on my sub box and it didnt work for me. Just put a little resin down and then put fiberglass on it, and then some more resin on that. If you get a bubble after doing that just push it out with your brush. If you miss some and see the bubble after it dries. No problem if its big, just cut it open with a razor blade and put a little resin in there w/ hardener mixed in and everything.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
dornstac 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: July 26, 2005 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks a lot realitycheck,

in my second question I am referring to the easiest material to use when making the mold of the interior of my hatch. some people say to use the scotch tape and then another layer of blue painters tape allowing the mold to come loose a lot easier without using a mold release agent by pulling the different layer of tape off of the scotch tape. I have heard of people not using anything as a release agent and just scotch taping a few layers, then prying it out with brute force.........I'd rather not do that.

however, after taping for almost an hour I am sure that there is an easier way to get this done...............this is where I saw the Tin foil suggestion, however, I have a hard time believing that If I line the area with tin foil and spray it with WD40 that I will be able to get the resin and fiberglass to stick to it. I guess I am asking what you guys use to line the contour and what you use to ensure that it comes out after???

-Respect
realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: July 26, 2005 at 10:28 AM / IP Logged  
Well I think in most cases if your going to be using the wd-40 it would be better to have the piece your working on lying down. To ensure that is doesnt peel off while curing. You can also just use a little bit of tape down and then put the tin foil down with tape over it, to ensure that the tin foil keeps it shape. Not a lot of tape over it just enough to keep it in place. Then just glass over it and pull it loose. Then just start pulling the foil and tape off the back of the fiberglass. It doesnt really matter that much if you have some you just cant get off, since more than likely no-one is going to see that part of the enclosure anyway. If I can help in any other way please let us know. I know its rough sometimes when you cant find any answers to your questions. I'll help anyway I can, and If I cant im sure theres somebody on here that know how.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
skitty4fingers 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 27, 2005 at 10:12 AM / IP Logged  
hey there Dornstac if your resin didnt come with any hardner the kind you want is MEKP aka (methyl ethyl keytone peroxide)also if you buy this stuff at an auto paint store ask them for a mixing chart that will show you the proper hardener to resin ratio for different teperatures it can make a big difference. as far as a good release agent for your mold my favorite is 2 layers of cellophane plastic wrap like the kind you can get from costco or sams club, the industrial version of reynolds wrap is like two feet wide. well hope that helps.
dornstac 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: July 27, 2005 at 12:49 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks guys

I am now strugling with getting the mat on fast enough so that the resin doesn't set on me, I am going to try large sections in the flat areas to cut down on time since I won't be fiddling around with little 4"x4" pieces all the time!

-Respect
dornstac 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: July 27, 2005 at 10:05 PM / IP Logged  

things are going alot better with the mat cut up by scissors, I am actually starting to get the hang of this!

I will post more pics on the other topic that I started

thanks for all your help guys!

-Respect
customcarchris 
Copper - Posts: 95
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 08, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 27, 2005 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged  
If there is any way you can get the upside down hanging piece turned over so you don't have to do it hanging, the do it. I tried some upside down fiberglassing and it is no good. It just drips off your brush onto you and everything else. You barely get all the mat laid on one layer and stick perfect and one little inch corner flops and if you don't catch it in a second, the whole layer is laying on the floor, about 6X the work trying to get it to stay than first applying it.
Fiberglassing upside down = no good.
skitty4fingers 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 28, 2005 at 3:36 AM / IP Logged  
try laying down some resin first and let it get tacky before you apply each layer.
dornstac 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: July 26, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: July 28, 2005 at 6:02 AM / IP Logged  
yeah, I didn't use any kind of release agent, instead I went with the 2 types of tape method, I am not sure if I would want to try upsidedown fg'ing with WD40 or something like that on the surface. but when I did mine upsidedown suprisingly I didn't have too hard of a time with it.........even on my first try, but I had also torn the edges of the fg, I don't like to do that anymore, but if it works, why not? my only problem was bubbles from the loose fibres that like to stand up!
-Respect
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