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Need pro's advice on enclosure


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r_wern 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 06, 2006 at 10:47 PM / IP Logged  
What is the correct way to build a fiberglass sub enclosure, starting from the beginning to the end?  The one I had in mind will hold 3 JL 13w6v2's.  How thick?  How would I build a port?  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
downstarinc 
Copper - Posts: 119
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged  
ive tried to ask for help building a ported fiberglass enclosure for 4 12" w6v2's and im still lookin...all i get is "ported is too difficult"...im in the same position..but i havent found anybody with enough time on their hands to just give me a port diameter (rough one)...if u get help let me kno! good luck tho..
jl audio..nuff said
hrickus 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: February 01, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 1:28 AM / IP Logged  
Here is a link to a great set of pics from a vented build done at dashratcustoms. http://www.dashratkustoms.com/DBblazer.htm
sk8ingsmurf 
Copper - Posts: 198
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 1:50 AM / IP Logged  

r_wern, it would really be worthless for me to explain to you how to build a fiberglass box from start to finish as a picture is worth a thousand words, so what I will do is refer you to some website which should provide you with plenty of information to get you started, from there I will be more than happy to answer any specific questions that you still have, I am definitely no profressional, but this project is not necessarily professional level, so hopefully I will be able to help.

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/ this is a great site where many people have learned the basics of fiberglassing, the tutorials are very simple, yet very informative

www.hzemall.com although there are no real tutorials on this website, chances are he has done something similar to what you are doing now, and looking at it will either be able to give you a rough idea of how to do it, or provide you with some cool ideas, hzemall is an amazing fabricator and at the very least you will have some fun looking at his beautiful work

sk8ingsmurf 
Copper - Posts: 198
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 1:55 AM / IP Logged  
downstairinc, I decided to post this seperately from the other one so you wouldnt dismiss it and know that your problem is being addressed.  although I do not have time at the moment (its 1:45 a.m. here and I have a test at 9:30) I will begin working on some quick calculations for you tomorrow or the next day.  Until then if you want to learn a little bit more about porting boxes yourself you should get a copy of winisd (its completely free, just google it), that is the program most people here use for porting boxes, its where I will be calculating the ports for you.  Its very easy to use, and its pretty interesting learning to do this stuff yourself.  Im sorry that nobody answered your questions sooner than this, its a great forum if you stick around, and the people here are generally incredibly informative.
downstarinc 
Copper - Posts: 119
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 2:56 AM / IP Logged  
sk8ingsmurf...dude ive tried to learn ports, i guess i need to go to port school...ive downloaded winisd, like greek to me..but and help u can give, would be greatly appreciated..im a visual learner so ill check out those links above..good lookin tho.
jl audio..nuff said
downstarinc 
Copper - Posts: 119
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 2:58 AM / IP Logged  
hrickus...those pics are exactly what ive been looking to do..good link.
jl audio..nuff said
bellsracer 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: January 14, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 3:53 AM / IP Logged  

From beginning to end, to be honest with you, can't really be said without specific details for the install. All that can really be said are general guidelines for the build. It is best to use 3/4" MDF for the frame and rings for these speakers (that goes for both of you) To start you will want to mask off the area that you want to install the subs. If the area is larger than a couple of square feet, I recommend using heavy duty foil taped together with green automotive tape (blue painter's tape works too, but green is the good stuff). You will want to cover at least 6" extra as well for any extra spilling etc. From there you will want to build a very strong frame to support the whole box itself. Using super glue (or lightweight, but fairly strong glue of some sort) create temporary framing for the rings to held in position. The ring frames will be removed later. The rings will stay. Take some fleece (find one you are comfortable with) and stretch it around the frame and rings to get the desired shape. Tack the fleece in place with either a quick drying glue or use a staple gun with short staples to hold the fleece in place. Now the fun/scary part (95% fun 1% scary 4% other) Mix your resin and hardener according to the instructions. Many kits/systems will use about 5cc of hardener for 1 quart of resin. Since you are new to this stuff, it is best to mix and use it 1 quart at a time. Apply it to your fleece. (Times will vary due to temperature, humidity, thickness, % of mix, etc.) Before the resin can fully harden start applying your fiberglass matting (torn, NOT cut into small squares. We like roughly 6x6) and add resin to the fiberglass. Do your best to keep air bubbles from forming. You continue like this until you have about 5/8" - 3/4" thick. This is where your frame will be tested. During the hardening and curing, the fiberglass will distort slightly (or a lot if not made accoring to manufacturers instructions). Now that the fiberglass is fully cured and hardened, it is time for body filler. Give the enclosure a once over with an air grinder (preferred) to give a roughly smooth surface ie. really bad lumps and areas of fiberglass sticking out. There is no need to spend a lot of time at this step. Then mix your filler to be used on the enclosure. The best stuff (in our opinion) is EVERCOAT rage GOLD filler. It is lightweight and really strong once cured. Do NOT leave this alone at any time. Your key to this (and most fillers) is to look for the "green" stage. That is when you start to apply it to the the enclosure, again doing it in small amounts so that you don't have to rush. A good indicator for "green" stage is the fingerprint test. Another is that the filler will be like REALLY soft cheese. Do your best to make it as smooth as possible, but imperfections are expected and unavoidable. 5 minutes later, you have a choice, sand it now with 36 grit sandpaper, or wait for it to cure and take longer for sanding. your enclosure is just about complete. From here, go ahead and remove the temporary bracing leaving the ring in place. Apply primer to the enclosure and sand it down with rough sand paper. Then apply primer again and sand it down with finer sand paper. Keep going until you get to about 220 grit sand paper. Apply your first layer of base coat ot the primer. Sand that down with 220 grit sand paper and apply another coat of paint. Sand that down with 400/500 grit paper. To get a mirror coat of color work up to about 1000-1200 grit sandpaper. Clear coat is sprayed on and sanded down starting with 500/600 and work your way back up. This will give an extremely clean finish to your project and look wet even when dry. (The ideal paint job) DONE! :: phew ::

r_wern : When making the enclosures, you have to make sure you abide by some very strict rules (to prolong the life and sound of the sub). 1: Your subs use a special venting system to control heat and pressure away from the speaker and spiders. you must keep a MINIMUM of 3/4" of space between the back of the speaker to any part of the enclosure. Expect the life of the subs to be cut in half if this rule is not followed. 2 : Your enclosure must have 1.875 cubic feet of space on the inside of it NOT including the speaker, port, speaker, etc. and 3 : Your port must be 1.75" wide, 15" long and 27.625" (5/8") deep. These are the measurements on the inside of the port. You can bend and use angles to achieve this, so consider this when you design your frame and F/G. 4: Keep as much space as possible around the port to maintain consistant, clean, booming sound.

downstarinc : Rule 1 applies to you in every way. 2 : Your design must have 1.5 cubic feet of internal space not including speakers, port, etc. 3 : Port sizing: 1.5" wide x 12.5" long x 29" deep. 4 : Same as r_wern.

We hope this helps out. It sounds complicated and when you look at it, it can look that way, but it is easier than it looks. The best advice we give you is to be patient and stay calm. Plan your procedures and go over them at least once before you begin. and last but certainly not least, ENJOY!

Ganbatte ne! (Good luck)

Never send your ducks to eagle school.
The difference between ordinary and extraordinary is that little extra.
The 3Ls of life: Learn from the Past, Live for the Present, Look to the Future.
downstarinc 
Copper - Posts: 119
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  
can the ports be at any angle...meaning, can you make them in a shape as an L?? I need a long port without that much space..
jl audio..nuff said
sk8ingsmurf 
Copper - Posts: 198
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 07, 2006 at 9:54 PM / IP Logged  
yeah you can use 90 degree angles in ports, that is you can definitely make it into an L, happens all of the time, sounds fine
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