blowing fuses

1, with 0 guage power cable you can fuse as high as 350 amps.  You need a larger fuse.  Go see your local car audio shop.

2, what is the expected current draw of your amplifier?  I suspect if it is really a "2000w" amp, it will pull much more than 100 amps, so blowing that fuse falls into the "duh" category.

3, what do you mean by "all the way up"?  If you mean your gain control, then you need to set it properly.  It is not a volume control.  Try the forum search function.

4, please explain how you can wire three speakers in series and achieve a 2-ohm load.  What is the make/model number of your speakers?

my problem with the fuse is that the style im using only comes up to 100amp. i am now searching for a new distribution block.. any suggestions?

..... the wiring diagram says that the series should be 1.34 but meter says 1.7-1.8.

by all the way  up  i mean gain. does this not control the power from amp to  speaker..

i dont know the draw of the amp.. it is a bxi2008D HIFONICS..someone at a local shop told me the amp is not 1ohm stable. how can that be when it is advertised so?

That is a 650 watt amp and it is advertised as 1-ohm stable (and supposedly capable of 2000 watts into 1-ohm) but I can only imagine the horrible distortion it puts out into a 1-ohm load, and I would not be surprised if it really cannot sustain 1-ohm.  In any case, you need to do a few things.:

First, you need to get the proper fuse for your power system.  You are using the wrong style fuse.  Go to a car stereo shop (not Best Buy) and ask for a wafer fuse.   Tell them the wire size you are using.  And no you don't necessarily need a distribution block... by the way, I am talking about the main system fuse that should be at your battery.  Is this what you are talking about? 

Next, no, your gain is not a volume control and it should NEVER (did I say NEVER?) be all the way up.  No way in the world!  You need to set it to match the output level from your head unit.   CLICK HERE. 

And lastly, you say you have 3 Kicker Comp VR subwoofers, but what model?  Are they dual 2-ohm or dual 4-ohm?

Two DVC 4-ohm speakers can be wired for 4-ohms or for 1-ohm impedance, and if they are all in series like you think then you have 16-ohms...  and like was mentioned above, you cannot read impedance with an ohm-meter.  Use the Subwoofer Wiring Options link to the left to see what your wiring configuration should look like.  650 watts @ 4-ohms is what Hifonics rates your amplifier model number at.  Any other loading producing higher wattage outputs voids all the other ratings listed for this kind of amplifier.  It is a 650 watt amp that is capable of sustaining higher loads (lower impedance) but not at any specified distortion, frequency response, etc. rating. 

If you do not set your gain properly you will destroy your speakers as the amplifier will most certainly be clipping, whether you think you can hear it or not, and this will eventually fry the voice coils.  Perhaps if you really do have all four VCs in series for a 16-ohm load... in which case your amplifier is producing approximately 162 watts at max output so perhaps you COULD crank the gain without hearing the clip...  Fix your wiring.

How did you "get the fuse thing under control"??

the voice coils are in a series and speakers parrallel. there are three of them not two and they are wired like the first diagram option in (3 4ohm speaker)....i am putting a 150amp breaker where the distro is...i have 3 amps. the other two are for highs but are reasonably small. i plan to put all of them on the breaker in the rear          (also have 150a breaker under hood)...i have turned the level on the amp down and am not blowing the fuse. do you think all three amps will trip the breaker.( A 200w boss and a 300w jensen)

i have a fourth and considering building box. or maybe scrapping for 15s.

would i have better wiring options with 4. and would the amp work better