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bfog99 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 07, 2003 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  

So, I've been spending a lot of time thinking about what I want for a new system.  I am planning to do this in stages. I have a Ford Focus SE Comfort without the factory sub.  

Here is what I was thinking:

I have a Lanzar cd player. I know it is a cheap brand, but I like it. It has 2 sets of pre-outs with a single output for subwoofers. I am going to get Infinity Kappa 572.5CF 5x7's for the 4 doors. I was also going to get g-logic kick panel replacements and get Kappa Perfect 5.1 5 1/4"  component set, and then get 1 Kappa Perfect 12.1, or possible a 12" aluminum Eclipse. I was going to run the subs off the JBL BP 600.1 and was looking for a couple of amps to run the door speakers on. I am looking for about 80 W RMS and looking to spend around $150. If possible I was thinking it would be nice is the amp had the RCA outputs to connect the amps together. I know I could go on the internet and find stuff, but you guys have dealt with what is out there whereas I haven't, yet.  If y'all have any suggestions on amps, or anything else I have listed so far, I am open.

One other thing... my stock alternator puts out 110 amps, at what point should I upgrade, assuming the order of installation is as listed above, putting the amps in with the respective speakers. And how many amps will the new alt need to put out?

esmith69 
Gold - Posts: 1,511
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: August 07, 2003 at 8:20 PM / IP Logged  

Since it's going to be very hard for you to get a 4-channel amplifier that puts out that amount of power for "around $150" I'd suggest using a 2-channel amplifier instead.  Since your head unit only has one set of preouts (the other set is going to be used for the subs so that doesn't count), you will not be able to fade front to rear anyways, so it just makes sense to get a less expensive 2-channel amp that puts out 160 watts RMS x 2 channels @ 2 ohm stereo.  Basically you'll hook up both the front left speaker/component set and the rear left speaker/component set to the amp's single left speaker output.  And then do the same thing for the right side of the vehicle with the amp's right output channel.  Each speaker/component set is a 4-ohm load and when they're combined they will give the amp a 2-ohm load on each channel (2-ohm stereo) and with 160 watts going to each channel, that means each speaker/component set would get 80 watts.  The profile CA400 actually is a perfect match for both your budget and your setup.

Also, if you get the Kappa Perfect 12.1D then you can wire up both voice coils in parallel and get a single 2-ohm load.  What this means is you could step down to the less expensive JBL BP300.1 amp (which is basically the same as the BP600.1 in terms of features and sound quality).  With this amp running 2 ohms you'd be getting 300 watts RMS total to the sub which is still a whole lot of power and a much better match for the Kappa Perfects than the 600 watts RMS tha the BP600.1 would put out.  Or if you had said the BP600.1 because you thought you'd have the SVC kappa's and thus be at a 4-ohm load, let me put it to you this way:--the difference in price between the SVC and DVC version of the sub is a lot less than the difference in price between BP300.1 and the BP600.1.  So you'd save more money by going with the BP300.1.

Ethan
-----
"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
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bfog99 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 07, 2003 at 10:04 PM / IP Logged  

Esmith,

Slight misunderstanding. My deck has 2 sets of preouts ( Front L and R, Rear L and R) plus a single output labled Subwoofer. So really there are 5 outputs. Also, someone pointed me towards the Crunch Noxx 80.4 ( http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/CRUP804 ) Any opinions on that? I was thinking the specs looked good, but I haven't dealt with that brand.  When I wrote abotu $150 for a 4-channel, this was the amp I was thinking about, but I would spend $250 or even 300 if I needed to. I do have a wife and a kid to support too if you know what I mean....

 I was thinking about the 600.1 so that I could add another sub when the time came. My experience so far is that you can never have enough. And this way if I want to set up in the world of subs I will have an amp that could out out for me.

BTW, those were q-logic kick panels... my bad.

I was also thinking about either the Alpine type R components or the Polk Audio MM455. Would these sound better that the kappa perfects 5.1's? Where I live right now there are only 2 stores that sell car audio, their major brands are RF and JL, so I can't really go listen to them.

bfog99 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 04, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 08, 2003 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  
Any other suggestions?
esmith69 
Gold - Posts: 1,511
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: August 08, 2003 at 8:14 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry I didn't get a chance to reply to your post until now.

Okie well now that I know that you have 3 sets of preamp outputs (front, rear, and sub) then I'd definitely say get a 4-channel amp for obvious reasons.  That crunch amp will do just fine as long as u make sure it's properly installed and that you take care of it.  In addition to making sure that you use good RCA cables and that they routed througout the vehicle away from the amp's power cable,, you should make sure you know the limits of your equipment.  You should always be listening for distortion and just any odd noises in general.  And know when you should turn down the bass and/or treble to prevent damage to the speakers (i.e. just listen carefully every now and then).

The Type-Rs and the Polk MOMO's are both very nice sets of speakers but if it were me I personally would stick with the Kappa Perfects.  I've heard all three of them and I prefer the Kappa Perfects without a doubt--their highs are untouchable.  Yes the Type-R's will go a little deeper (50 Hz vs. 80 Hz.) into the sub-bass frequencies, but you're going to have a subwoofer anyways so you'd never tell the difference.  Also it's worth mentioning that the type R's are only rated to handle up to 40 watts RMS whereas the Kappa Perfects can handle up to 100 watts RMS.

Use your head unit's subwoofer preamp output to connect to the JBL sub amp's signal inputs.  You will need one y-adapter cable in order to feed the amp the signals for both the left and the right channel, because as you noted there's only a single RCA plug for the head unit's subwoofer preout..

Then the head unit's front preouts go to the 4-channel amplifier's front signal inputs, and the head unit's rear preouts go to the 4-channel amplifier's rear signal inputs.  Piece of cake.

Ethan
-----
"Patience, persistence, and perspiration make an unbeatable combination for success"
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