viper 790xv troubleshooting

I just installed a Viper 790XV into my 1997 Acura Integra. I opted to not use the remote start harness/ relays, and I've also added a DEI audio sensor, DEI battery backup, and a DEI tilt sensor along with the shock sensor and hood pin. This is my first alarm install, so I used resources to find the wiring, but I think something may be wrong. The Problem: When locking, I receive a bypass notification beep. When disarming, I get 5 beeps, meaning the the Nuisance protection is active. Here's the wiring I used: Alarm Harness - Other Orange (ground when armed) - start kill relay, tilt sensor orange wire White (light flash) - parking lights WHITE/ Blue (remote start) - depinned (unused) BLACK/ White (domelight supervision) - Door trigger wire Green (- door trigger input) - Door trigger wire (along with above) Blue (multiplexed trigger input) - Trigger wire from battery backup and tilt sensor Violet (+ door trigger) - depinned (unused) Black - Ground Brown - Siren Positive Red (Power) - constant 12V from fuse block RED / Whire - Unused The battery backup 12V is tied into the line coming from the fusebox, and the Grey backup line also ties into that line, closer to the alarm. What am I missing? Also, how do I program the alarm when it says that I need to have an ignition wire attached to the remote start relay to use the Valet button to program? Thanks in advance! Any information would be helpful! Zach

Thanks for the reply. I opted to do a stealth install, because to be honest with you, installs by places like Best Buy are on a time frame, and they place the Alarm next to the steering column. Other then a minor inconvenience, this provides little stopping power against a thief. Everyone can learn how to do it, and it's better to know so you understand how it works. Update to the problem, I've been noticing that the car thinks my door is open when it's not. I've fixed it before, but it came back. Could this be the sensor being bypassed? My paging remote isn't telling me anything is open though. Thanks!

Forgot to add also, that the Tilt and Battery back are NOT diode isolated. Should they be?

The domelight wire in the car is high-current, and the domelight supervision feature must be connected with a relay, per the installation manual. The BLACK/ white output from the alarm is low-current, and only has enough power to turn on a relay. Most likely, the Viper's domelight output has burned out, and is now a steady ground all the time. To troubleshoot: Cut the BLACK/ white wire away from the car, and see if the problem disappears. Also, test the BLACK/ white that comes from the Viper. If it tests as a ground at all times, even with the alarm armed, then the domelight supervision output has been permanently damaged. You can choose whether to live without the feature, or to replace the brain.

Thank you! I misunderstood the domelight supervision function I think. The guide I was using failed to mention a relay, I should have doubled checked in the manual...I see it now! I thought it was in input, showing when the light was on, not an output. I'll cut it and wire it with a relay. If it's permanently damaged, no worries. Do you know If I have the sensors wired correctly?

It's been a long time since I put in a backup battery. But, if I remember right, the diagram indicates the alarm's red power wire should be connected ONLY to the output from the backup battery......and ONLY the backup battery's input is to be connected to the constant-power source in the car. The basic idea is that the small battery has enough power to run the alarm for a short amount of time, but does not have enough power to run all of the accessories in the car. So, basically, if it's configured in a way that the battery can supply power to the car, it's not going to have its desired effect. Sorry I'm a little rusty on all this accessory/sensor stuff. I can't remember if you need to diode-isolate the different sensors or not. You could at least leave them as they are for now, and see if they work properly. Also, as described above, test the alarm's domelight supervision output before investing money/labor into wiring up the relay, as it's probably not going to work now. Also, about the ignition input to the alarm. On the remote starter's ribbon harness, one wire in the ribbon is yellow. This is the ignition input for the alarm. You could either cut up the ribbon harness, or maybe there's another plug in the kit you're not using that'll fit into the same spot. You could just use a jumper wire to get into programming just this once, but the ignition input also controls many other things: automatic lock/unlock, passive arming, manual disarm with the valet switch, domelight turn-off, and others. I would definitely recommend hooking it up to the car.

After I put the interior back in (of course!) I was was wondering if I should have wired the battery backup as you described. I noticed this afternoon that my accessories turned on, but the car wouldn't, only to discover the car's battery cable was loose. Good call, I'll get that fixed ASAP. I cut the BLACK/ White cable earlier and it solved the door trigger issue. It only chirps twice on the disarm, which is the norm. Thanks for that advice. I'm not too worried about getting it hooked up again. I'll have to rewire the battery backup and see what happens. It's still giving me the double beep on the arming phase, which means it's bypassing something. It's saying sensors 1 and 2 are the cause, but I'll have to investigate further once I have access to the wiring again. Do you know if it's ok that I've used the trunk trigger wire for the tilt sensor and battery backup instant trigger wire along with the hood sensor? It shows that the trunk is open any time they trigger, but that's ok.   I've tested the hood pin and it works great, just haven't tested the others yet. Thanks again for you help man, I really appreciate it. Zach

u do not need to diode isolate the battery backup or any of the 12v constant leads from the other sensors.  i always wired the battery backup to the red wire coming off the harness on the brain.  in fact, anything that needed 12v constant, i wired directly to the red wire on the brain.  this allowed me to only have to make one connection on the 12v constant wire in the vehicle ignition harness. if at first u dont succeed........ lower ur standards