’94 ford probe, remote start

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e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 31, 2008 at 5:26 PM / IP Logged

I there

I'm about to fit a remote start pager alarm to my 1994 16v ford probe. I Need some clarification for some of the wires that need hooking up. I'll try to include as much information as possible taken from the installation manual. Hopefully this will make it a little easier.

On the starter harness on the alarm there are two ignitoin output wires. Do they both connect to the same wire on the ignition or do I just connect one?

7-pin Connector Secondary Harness for Remote Start

Pin 4: (-)300ma bypass output when remote start. Connect this wire to the interface of Remote Start Bypass Module.

(I don't have any idea what this is for? / Where I connect it?)

6-Pin Secondary Harness for Outputs

Pin 1: Armed Output(-) 500mA. This wire supplies a ground output while armed to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection.

(I have no idea where to hook this up to. There is a relay in the box but I don't see any instructions on where to hook this up, could this relay be the one spoken of here and if so where do I hook the relay up?)

Pin 5: Dome Light Output (-) 500mA. Connect to the wire that activate the vehicales dome light, usually the door pin switch wire. Note: the dome light output can usually connect to the same wire used for the door trigger input. This output is only intended to drive a relay. It can not be connected directly to the dome light circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more light bulbs.

(So I guess I need a Relay and it needs connecting to the Door Trigger lead (RED / White wire (-) in Drivers kick panel) how should the relay be wired?)

Pin 6: (+) Ingintion Input of th eKey Cylinder to Alarm. Connect to the ignition wire that provides +12V when the ignition on and while cranking the starter.

(Is this to be connected to the same place as the one that was used for the remote start? BLACK/ Pink (+) in the Ignition Switch Harness?)

That's everything. Any clarification with this would be really useful. Thanks again for all the advice so far it's great!

e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 31, 2008 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged

Oh yeah.... I already have this information.

1995-97 Ford Probe Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information
Constant 12V+	Black	Ignition Switch Harness
Starter	BLACK / YELLOW	Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition	BLACK/ Pink	Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory	BLACK/ Red	Ignition Switch Harness
Tach	Yellow/Blue	Coil or Diagnostic Connector
Neutral Safety Wire	Not Grounding	OEM Switch opens Starter Circuit
Brake Switch	WHITE/ Green	Brake Switch
Trunk Release	RED / Silver (-)	Left Kick Panel
Trunk Pin	Light Blue (-)	Top of Fuse Panel Blue 22 Pin Connector
Parking Lights	ORANGE / Silver	Top of Fuse Panel Orange Connector
Head Lamp	WHITE/ Red	Light Switch
Hood Pin	n/a
Factory Disarm	Yellow/Red (-)	Behind Fuse Panel Gray Connector
Door Trigger	RED / White (-)	Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock	GREEN/ Black	Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock	GREEN/ Black	One Wire Door Lock System
Horn Wire	GREEN/ Orange (-)	Steering Column
Windows Up	LF=GREEN/ Blue (+), RF=GREEN / WHITE \|
Windows Down	LF=RED / Blue (+), RF=RED / White

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 31, 2008 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged

You have to get round factory immobilisation that was only on UK models, much of the the info above is wrong, including lock wire; it needs a resistor, from your questions I would seriously suggest you not doing it. Also what make alarm/RS?

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: March 31, 2008 at 6:23 PM / IP Logged

The ignition wire you require is the one that stays live when starting, the other is known as the 2nd ignition. Is your vehicle manual or auto and if manual, do you have a manual trannie interface? Or; is the alarm R/S manual compatible?

KarTuneMan

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Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: March 31, 2008 at 8:29 PM / IP Logged

do you have a manual trannie interface? Or; is the alarm R/S manual compatible?

If not, quit now, while your ahead.

e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 01, 2008 at 3:47 AM / IP Logged

howie ll wrote:

I've already got around the factory immobilisation. That was a piece of cake. I also already understand how to sort out the remote central locking, that's easy too. (One wire system with 4.7k Ohm resistor on unlock.)

The alarm is an automate system.... I know it aint a premium brand.

The above information was taken from this web sites database. I've also cross refenced the info above with <this>.

e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 01, 2008 at 3:54 AM / IP Logged

howie ll wrote:

The alarm is compatible with manual transmissions. There is a wire that I can either connect to the Park/Neutral switch in the vehicle or to the Parking brake switch. I'll be connecting this wire to the parking brake switch.

e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 01, 2008 at 4:27 AM / IP Logged

OK... I've been reading some stuff and I now inderstand the Armed out put (anti grind protection) relay wiring.

That just leaves

7-pin Connector Secondary Harness for Remote Start

Pin 4: (-)300ma bypass output when remote start.

6-Pin Secondary Harness for Outputs

Pin 5: Dome Light Output (-) 500mA.

Pin 6: (+) Ingintion Input of the Key Cylinder to Alarm.

e_x_a_r_k_u_n

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: March 31, 2008

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 01, 2008 at 5:03 AM / IP Logged

Oh yeah.... I don't need to know about the dome light output either now.

howie ll

Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466

Joined: January 09, 2007

Location: United Kingdom

Posted: April 01, 2008 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged

OK, you passed the first test and didn't fall into the lock trap, NB if that alarm only has 2 lock wires you will need to boost both with relays, carry on but over here forget lights, you need to boost the white? light out put again with a relay and then 2 54xx diodes with bands away from alarm to GREEN/ black, and GREEN/ YELLOW indicator wires. One assumes a manual transmission set up mode where you have the engine running, do something with the remote, pull the key from ign. and exit the vehicle,alarm the car and engine shuts down. If you don't have this feature good luck with any future law suits if you've parked the car downhill.

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