2006 cts remote start wiring

I'm finally going to get this done this year.

Using an autopage rs-1000 with a fortin Int-sl bypass on the car. Making my pre-install diagrams as my final step prior to installation. Check twice/cut once thought process.

I have the electric style ignition cylinder which only sends a low amp 12v ignition/crank signal over 22awg wire to the DIM. I have Crank/ IGN/ IGN3 & Acc wires coming from the key cylinder all on 22awg.

This car is all about relays. It seems every circuit on this car is run through a relay which is controlled by either the Ecm, DIM or RIM through class 2 data.  There are fuse blocks under everything as most devices are provided  power directly and switched on/off through a relay controlled by ECM/DIM or RIM

My main question is that since I dont need to provide high amps to any of the ignition circuits from the remote starter, just a low 12v signal:

Do I really need to get power directly from the battery or will any constant power source do?

Do I need to install anything to protect the sensitive DIM / RIM modules from the remote starter? Overload protection of some kind?

My Factory Service Manual diagram states that  my  orange IGN 3   wire is only energized in the RUN position. Every wire color/code listing  online says to hook this Orange wire up as an accessory wire which will energize it in the ACC mode and RUN mode.      Is this OK, or do I need to run this wire through a relay to only power it up  in RUN as the factory schematic shows?

Since the starter is controlled through the DIM and wont signal the crank relay until all class 2 data is met, Do I need to wire the nuetral safety switch to the remote starter? This safety switch is already being monitored by the DIM. Because the way this car is wired, everything has to be powered to remote start the vehicle. Unlike other cars where the lights/radio,etc may not be powered. Oviously I would still need to ground the neutral switch Wire from  the Remote starter.

The only other thing I'm adding is a channel output to control the drivers heated seat. Granted, the bypass module will control it through class 2, but only when the temp is below 32 degrees. I want to be able to turn it on for anything less than 50 degrees. Dont see why I would run into any problem there. Will double check it though.

I have remote starters on all of my cars that  I installed myself and never had any problems with any of them. With the stories Ive heard about the lack of knowledge at shops regarding this specific auto,(I can see why now) I figured I'd be better suited to do it myself. I know that I wont start the job until I know "for sure" exactly where every wire is going and  why its going there. I even have a backup Bypass on hand just incase one of them is bad.

Once I'm done, I will be posting the steps I took to get it done in detail.

Thanks for any replies to this post!

Scott

Thanks for the info.

As far as the fuses on the remote start, I was thinking the same thing as far as changing the fuse to 10amp at most.

Safety:   I was thinking a possible short in the remote starter causing damage to my DIM/RIM modules and that maybe I should protect those devices somehow.

ING 3

The orange wire (ING 3) is the way the factory manual describes it. The wiring diagram shows it only powered in "RUN" only.

I also have a BRN Accessory wire from the ignition switch that is powered in BOTH accessory and RUN positions.

I wanted to make sure that if I did wire the orange ING 3 wire to an accessory output from the starter, I wouldnt be causing a problem. All accessory outputs on the remote starter power in both accessory and RUN positions.

The factory manual wiring diagram shows the ING 3 only powered in RUN and not in accessory mode . Im wondering if there is a specific reason for that??

My BRN accessory wire sends signals to the DIM, Theft system and transmission module. Im wondering if those need to be sending class 2 commands prior to the ING 3 modules powering up?

My "ING 3" wire signals DIM/RIM to power HVAC,heated seats,defrog,courtesy lamps,etc. Its the "TRUE" accessory wire, but not wired the regular way in the CTS.

Im actually considering making my own T-harness. I'd rather make as many (solder) connections outside of the car as possible. Plus It gives me a simplified removal process if needed.

Tanks again