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viper 5301 remote starter in 95 explorer


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original_sloop 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 02, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 16, 2009 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  

i am installing a viper 5301 in my 95 ford explorer - a slow install

1995 Ford Explorer XLT

4 door

6 cylinder OHV 

2 wheel drive

automatic transmission

keyless entry with factory alarm

overhead console

no memory seats

no EATC

no message center

no heated mirrors

Pretty much the standard soccer mom version.  I moved the radio to the accessory delay and installed the automatic dimming mirror with automatic

some connections are straightfroward but others are not - seems that these units were reworked from the previous vipers - and the install manual is not online yet (if i had a scanner...)

i got the connection chart from here, researched lots of threads and studies the ford technical specifications publications - but still have a few questions - my first is about the parking lights

it looks to me like this viper has an internal relay that supplies a 10 amp (+ or - depending on how the fuse is placed in the viper) output for the parking lights - the connection chart here shows a connection to the headlamp switch - it looks like that connection drives the coil in the explorer relay

connection chart info:

parking lights (-) - WHITE/ purple - driver kick panel

parking lights (+) - WHITE/ black - headlight switch

this is from the primary harness connection section

Install manual text:  This wire should be connected to the parking light wire in the vehicle.  See Setting the light flash polarity section of this guide for polarity settings.

For parking light circuits that draw 10-amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched to a (-) light flash output.  (See Setting the light flash polarity section of this guide.)  P/N 8617 or a standard automotive SPDT relay must be used on the H1/11 light flash output harness wire.

Install manual text:  Setting the light flash polarity. 

Light flash (+)/(-) polarity

The internal fuse is used to determine the light flash output.  In the (+) position, the onboard relay will output (+) 12V on the white wire, H1/11.  In the (-) position, the onboard relay will supply a (-) output.  When wiring into a multiplex circuit, you can replace the fuse with a resistor (paying attention to the polarity setting).  (Refer to diagram on p. 24, H1/4 WHITE/ brown wire description.)

i have the schematics for the external lights and the headlight switch pinout on the web site

http://mysite.verizon.net/respkm62/viper5301ina1995fordexplorer/

i also have the install manual text for each harness connection if anyone needs it - as i find the correct connections, i will fill in the info

can someone help with this connection?

tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 17, 2009 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  
Parking LightsBROWN(+)

BROWN IN LEFT KICK PANEL

Isnt parking lights off the R/S... WHITE...Take your DMM put Black lead to ground...put red lead in suspected Parking light wire on Remote Start...press lock/un-lock...see what voltage does on R/S...if you see 12 volts flash check manual again and verify wire and wire desription.

Once you find and verify + output on remote start you are going to take black lead on DMM and put black to ground...Locate parking light wire in car...Put red lead on wire,pierce insulation...Turn parking lights on-off...When you get 12 volts on your meter...then move dimmer switch up/down{dial/switch that dims your dash lights] you do not want a change in voltage...If voltage de-creases and increases  ,usually a few volts, when turning dial it is wrong wire{When you do find Parking light wire and your moving dimmer up/down you might see a slight change in voltage like 12.57-12.48,not a problem}

Hope this helps

M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
original_sloop 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 02, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 18, 2009 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged  

thanks tommy - i was looking at a different chart that gave the wrong wire color - i found the brown wire in the passenger kick panel and tested it

i also connected the unit to the harnesses but something is wrong - i can hold the valet button and the unit enters programming mode - the horn honks for the menu selection and the option setting (i need to set it to automatic transmission) - when i press the unlock on the remote (to select auto transmission) the remote gives an error tone - i tried it with the door open and closed

it might be that my lock/unlock is wrong - the chart shows: 

lock - pink / YELLOW - meter shows a constant 12v - drops when i press the lock button on the door

unlock - pink/light green - meter shows constant 12v - drops when i press the unlock button on the door

i connected the wires and tested at the harness - when i connect all the harnesses to the unit, if i press unlock (or lock) on the remote i get no relay clicks that i can hear - and the remote gives an error tone a few seconds later - then i release the valet button (not knowing if the change worked) - 30 seconds later i get a short and long horn honk (the manual does not tell how to exit programming mode)

the manual for the 5301 changed - the 'component locations and finding wires' section says to go to directechs.com - all the explanations were deleted (the 5701 has some explanations) and of course i don't have access to the web site

when i look at the 5701 explanation for locks, it shows the same connections for either type a or type b locks (positive or negative) - not sure how the unit would know which are being used - the 5701 has this

important:  remember that these wires' functions reverse between type a and type b.

the only connection i have not made

dome output - not sure i need it

second lock output - might need it for progressive locks but wanted to get the regular lock connection first

the cabin temperature function seems to work so the remote seems to talk to the unit

any ideas on what i am doing wrong?  as far as i know, the unit is set to its defaults.

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: May 18, 2009 at 8:55 PM / IP Logged  
The doorlock wires you found in the car, are they thick or thin?
Since you have factory keyless, your Explorer should already have onboard relays, and you shouldn't need to connect your own.
However, you want to make sure you're tying into the Ford's wires leading from the switch on the door panel, to the factory relays..........if you're on the heavy wires between the relays and the motors inside the doors, it's not going to work.
I think the doorlock/window switch on the door just pops right out, doesn't it? Pop that out, get a look at the wires behind, and see if the wires you found inside the cabin are the same size/appearance.
PROGRAMMING:
But besides all that, you don't need to hook up doorlocks to do programming. After all, you might be installing in a car that only has manual locks.
I know they had bunches of Vipers with problems with responding to the remotes....not really sure if yours was one of those. I think it was at least the 5901 alarm/start combo.
Maybe you can see if you can try reprogramming the remote to the unit, and see if you get any better results after that, doesn't hurt to try
original_sloop 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 02, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 18, 2009 at 9:35 PM / IP Logged  

the lock wires i attached to are a thin gauge - very thin - they have 12v at rest and when i use the switch on the door, the voltage drops and quickly returns to 12v - these are the wires that go to the switch

not sure what caused this - probably the relearning the remote - it seemed to take

then i tried to change the transmission option in the programming menu - and this time i placed the remote in the transmit mode (or whatever - before when i tried to program, i did not do anything to prepare the remote to transmit - not sure if i need to)

then i tried the lock and unlock - it worked - guess i should try the remote start - kinda spooked about that after reading some horror threads about cars that come alive and consume small puppies

i also read about the units with the bad antenna problem - someone said the 'newer' (ones that worked) had a silver dot of paint somewhere

thanks chris - now on to the dome light and second lock wires

tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 18, 2009 at 10:03 PM / IP Logged  

For the Dome light...It is a feature where the dome light goes off/on with arm/dis-arm. Second unlock is a feature where drivers door is unlocked when you hit unlock...press again for all other doors..An upsell for that feature is no-one can jump in passenger seat when you hit unlock...Good Luck on rest of install...

M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
original_sloop 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 02, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 18, 2009 at 10:08 PM / IP Logged  

notes for posterity - the second unlock wire is not needed - the progressive unlock function still perfroms like the one on the factory keychain fob (once for driver door - twice for all doors)

lock does not arm the factory alarm - i will research if that is a programmable setting or if i need to connect the viper arm wire to the factory antitheft - i suspect i will need to do that

locking with the ford fob arms the antitheft - unlocking with the viper fob disarms the antitheft - makes sense - i have the disarm wire connected

the inside dome lights do not come on with the viper unlock - viper has a dome output wire that powers the coil in a relay - i suspect i need to connect that to the light GREEN/ orange wire between the gem and the lamp relay

i did try the remote start - relays clicked but it did not turn over - need to revisit my heavy gauge harness - the lights flashed though - the brake aborted the retries (yes!)

one other note - the brown wire flashes the parking lights, tail lights, tag lights and instrument lights - i thought it would after looking at the schematic - wonder if all that is more than 10 amps?

Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 1:21 AM / IP Logged  
Factory arm:
At least for the meantime, if you lock the doors while they are open, the alarm should arm. That is, park the car, open the door, get out, but lock the doors BEFORE closing.....could be with the button on the door, or with the Viper remote.
You can try connecting the Viper's rearm output to the driver's door pinswitch wire. It may or may not work depending on the Viper's timing......the car needs to "see" the open door before locking, not just at the exact same time.
Domelight:
Yes, exactly, the regular unlock wire won't turn on the domelight, even though it does have it from the factory. On some (many?) Fords, the domelight wire at the dashboard dimmer switch is low-current, and a relay isn't needed.
Sounds like you're pretty good with a multimeter. Find the wire at the dimmer switch, set up your meter to read current draw.....one meter lead to ground, the other to the domelight wire.....see if it draws a lot of current or just a little, you might not need the relay.
Trying out remote start:
Turn the heater on high, then try remote start while observing dash guages and listening. Dash warning lights should stay on during crank attempts, heater should shut off.........that'll give you some idea of what's correctly hooked up and what isn't.
Parking lights:
Yes, you would think all those different bulbs would draw plenty of power, but I don't think I've ever seen the 10-amp fuse blow on a vehicle like yours. I woudln't worry about it. Worst case, the fuse blows, you worry about it then.
original_sloop 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: May 02, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 4:51 PM / IP Logged  
that's strange about the arming - it does arm if i lock it with the door open - maybe i'll play with that after i get the starting working
 
i revisited the heavy gauge harness - something is not right with it - when i tried the start, the relays click and the lights flash but that is all i get - when i press the brake, the retries stop
 
the chart shows
 
     starter - RED / light blue
     ignition - GREEN/ purple
     ignition 2 - BLACK/ green
     accessory - GREEN/ YELLOW
 
this is my ignition harness labels, when each wire sees 12v (i tested each) and what i suspect it is (in parenthesis)
 
     RED / light blue - start output - 12v in start only - (starter)
     light GREEN/ purple - start/run output - 12v in start and run (there are 2 of these) - (ignition)
     BLACK/ light green - run/accessory output - 12v in run and accessory - (accessory)
     gray / YELLOW - run output - 12v in run (there are 2 of these) - (ignition 2)
     yellow - battery input - 12v always (there are 2 of these) - (used for constant 12v in primary harness)
 
where i think my problem is - which wires on the heavy gauge harness i should use - the install manual labels and text
 
     Connection description:  Ignition 1 input/output
     Harness wire color:  Pink
     Install manual text:  Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle.  This not only supplies voltage for the ignition line in the vehicle, it is also the ignition feed for the remote start system.
 
     Connection description:  Fused (30A) fused ignition 2/flex relay input 87
     Harness wire color:  RED / White
     Install manual text:  This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 2/flex relay.
 
     Connection description:  Accessory output
     Harness wire color:  Orange
     Install manual text:  Connect this wire to the accessory wire that powers the climate control system.
 
     Connection description:  Starter Output
     Harness wire color:  Violet
     Install manual text:  Connect this wire to the starter wire in the vehicle.
 
     Connection description:  Fused (30A) ignition 1 input
     Harness wire color:  Red
     Install manual text:  This wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 1 relay.
 
     Connection description:  Ignition 2/flex relay output 30
     Harness wire color:  Pink/White
     Install manual text:  This wire is factory programmed as ignition 2 and can be programmed as a 2nd accessory or 2nd starter.
 
     Connection description:  Flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay
     Harness wire color:  Pink/Black
     Install manual text:  This wire is used when an ignition switch isolation on the vehicle is necessary.  This is common on Toyota and Nissans which required the use of Tech Tip document # 1077.  (See menu # 3 feature 8 for programming options.  See the diagram below for more wiring detail.)
 
     Connection description:  Fused (30A) accessory/starter input
     Harness wire color:  RED / Black
     Install manual text:  This wire is the polarity feed to the accessory and starter relays.
 
what i suspect
 
     starter - viper color violet - explorer color RED / light blue
     accessory - viper color orange - explorer color BLACK/ light green
     ignition - viper color pink - explorer color light GREEN/ purple
     ignition 2 - viper color pink/white - explorer color gray / YELLOW
 
but evidently i am wrong - where the explorer has 2 wires with the same wire color, i only tested one wire
 
are these 4 connection the only ones i need?  do i have them screwed up?  where there are duplicate wire colors, should i try the opposite one?
 
tommy... 
Gold - Posts: 1,901
Gold spacespace
Joined: December 10, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 19, 2009 at 5:38 PM / IP Logged  

BatteryYELLOW(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
viper 5301 remote starter in 95 explorer -- posted image.Ignition 1GREEN/ VIOLET(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS "2 WIRES"
viper 5301 remote starter in 95 explorer -- posted image.Ignition 2BLACK/ GREEN(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (BLOWER MOTOR)
viper 5301 remote starter in 95 explorer -- posted image.Accessory 1GREEN/ YELLOW(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS "2 WIRES"
viper 5301 remote starter in 95 explorer -- posted image.Starter 1RED / LIGHT BLUE(+)IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Do all the dash lights come on, on the dash, and the vehicle just doesnt crank...Or the parking lights just flash when you press the start button...? Did you hook up Tach Wire...? Did you do Tach Learn Procedure?.... Default is virtual tach{it says it learns during start, did you have a bad start attempt during learning sequence?}...then voltage{if not using tach}...Option 3 is blank...4 is regualer tach...Also IT IS set in manual Transmission mode{default}...Will have to change that to automatic...{scrolling through the install guide}

M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
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