the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Diodes


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
thesnowman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: May 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 2:53 PM / IP Logged  

Ok I installed door locks, they work perfect with diodes/relays in place.  I do know that the diodes I am using have a 0.7 voltage drop across them.  Now I need these diodes so the system doesn't short and blow fuses.  My question would be is there a way to get around the voltage drop.  From what I have been reading it seems like the answer would be a 12volt Zener Diode.  That way it will keep the 12v, constent and break down anything go the opposite way.  Would this be correct thinking??

Thanks for the help..

Powermyster 
Silver - Posts: 962
Silver spacespace
Joined: April 06, 2005
Location: Ireland
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 3:45 PM / IP Logged  
1n4001 if its a 1 amp diode
Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 6:33 PM / IP Logged  
Can't really get around the diode drop; if it's really a problem losing the 0.7V, you might try working a relay in there somehow, depending on what you need to do.
Don't think a 12V zener will do what you need it to do-
thesnowman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: May 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  

Alright, then perhaps I just got the wrong impression of what the Zener diode is/does. Thanks for the help.  I guess I can live with the 0.7v drop.

One more question for you guys though:

I was working on locks and generally the way I wired it up is:  I have the switches Unlock & Lock which provide power to the actuator.  I have unlock wired to make the actuator go up and lock to make it go down.  Well right off the switch I have a diode that allows the power to go from switch to actuator.  Now everytime I hit the unlock or lock button the diode smokes a bit, until it eventually burns out.  Now I figured I need a resistor to lesses the load on the diode.  Question is how much resistance will I need?  Or is this the best way to even go about it.

Power source is: approx. 12V

Diodes: 1N4001 1amp 12v

Thanks for the help..

thesnowman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: May 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 2:59 PM / IP Logged  

Well I have an alarm/remote keyless entry/remote start/etc...

Originally I didn't have power windows or locks.  I had the installer put in power locks and I did the power windows myself.  Well the alarm company installed the locks and ran to wires from the alarm module to the actuators.  I figured the easiest thing to do would be to run a wire from my switch right into their corresponding wire.  The hole operation worked until I either held down the unlock or lock button and it work burn the diode and stop working.  Or after a while of just constently pushing the lock and unlock button it burned out.

Here is a basic wiring diagram, now don't laugh I made it in a hurry.  The reason I have diodes there is that I will also have to more wires running between the already installed lines going to the actuators so I can connect both sides. (i.e. hit the unlock on the drivers side and it will unlock the passenger side)

Diagram:

Diodes -- posted image.

thesnowman 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: May 22, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  

hmm my last post didn't seem to go through so I have to retype...

If I am understanding correctly you are telling me to put diodes on the lines running from the alarm module to the actuators before they branch off to go to the switches.  Now that makes sense to me to protect the alarm module from any current going back.  However, that was the first thing I tried, and I ended up having to take the diodes back out.  With those diodes in place it caused my alarm remote not to work in locking or unlocking the doors.  With no diodes in place there the remote worked fine.

If this is not what you are talking about could you help me to understand then...

Thanks for the help, and more ideas are welcome, I will try it all....

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  
Not really sure what your diagram is showing; are the unlock and lock wires coming from the alarm module (going to the actuators) reversing polarity to do the lock and unlock operation? I assume the two wires connected to the actuator go to the motor and lock and unlock when it gets power in one direction or the other.
The alarm modules I've usually seen put out a low current pulse to control relays, rather than directly driving the actuators; is the module you have driving them directly?
The diodes usually are used for low current signal isolation, but it looks like you have them wired up directly driving the actuators, which most likely is beyond the 1A rating of the diodes.
How are those switches configured (what gets connected to 12V and ground when locking, and when unlocking)?
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 8:04 PM / IP Logged  
Not sure i understand! does the alarm mod have relays biult in to controll the locks? If not, you need them. If so, the wires should rest at ground which means you cant just supply power to them. If the relays are onboard you will need another set of relays to 5 wire the motor legs. You are causing a direct short thus frying diodes, which shouldn't be needed to begin with. Please explain....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 8:24 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, not sure exactly what the outputs from the alarm module are doing; if they're reversing polarity and one side or the other always at ground, the diode would be seeing a full 12V across it.
Thing is, if that's the case, I would have expected the diode to blow pretty much instantly, which apparently isn't happening. Sounds like the diodes are being called on to pass the full actuator current, which they probably can't handle.
It really should be worked out to control it with relays rather than diodes for isolation, but I'm fuzzy about what's involved here, so I don't know what'd be needed.
Maybe with more details on what's happening with the alarm module outputs and the switch..
dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 24, 2005 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged  
Something like this is probably what you want to do-
5 wire alternating 12V positive door lock relay configuration
May have to modify it as needed depending on just what your alarm module outputs and switch outputs are doing-
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Wednesday, May 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer