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Astrostart 4204U 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee


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jefferskn 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 05, 2006 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged  
I am getting ready to install an Astrostart 4204U with a JDLPK module in an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8. I have installed a few remote starts in the past but not an Astrostart.
First question, can I use P2-pin6 Dark Green to connect to the brown wire on the JDLPK for constant negative when running? If not, what wire should I connect to the JDLPK?
Second, do I need to use the starter kill P4-pin6 Light Blue wire and if so what do I connect it to on the Jeep?
Third, can I use P2-pin15 output #3 for a rear defrost (-)trigger or should I use the P5 relay? And if I should use the P5 relay, how would I wire it?
Fourth, the six wires for the lock/unlock relays are confusing me a little. I am used to only 2 wires coming from the RS to connect to the 2 wires on the interface module. What do I connect the six wires to in order to get a negative lock pulse & negative unlock pulse to connect to the JDLPK? I see that the BROWN / white & blue/white are fused so I am assuming I hook a constant (+) signal to them but not sure.
Fifth, can the 2nd accessory wire on the Jeep be tied in with the accessory ouput being used for accessory 1 on the Jeep? If not what would I use instead?
Sixth, on the JDLPK during the doorlock programming section, it says to turn on the key, should the JDLPK wire harness be plugged in for that?
Last question, in the instructions for the JDLPK, it says to hold the "screw" side up to the ignition during programming, is that the same as the bottom of the module?
I know these are alot of questions but I read through all of the manuals and couldn't find the answers. I don't want to start the install until I know where everything is going. Thanks in advance for any help that I may get.
Jeffers,
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
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Posted: January 06, 2006 at 8:01 AM / IP Logged  
I've only done a couple of Astrostarts, but I'm familiar with the JDLPK.
1. Don't know. If the Astro manual says that the wire is to be connected to an immobilizer bypass module, it is probably the right one.
2. A starter kill would require an optional relay, and cutting the car's starter wire in half and connecting it to that relay. Since your Jeep already has Sentry Key, someone is not likely to steal it.
However, you might want to connect it just for the anti-grind feature, so you won't be able to grind the starter when the remote start is already on.
There should be a relay diagram for a starter kill somewhere on this site.
3. Don't know; haven't triggered rear defrost on a Jeep before. Turn the key on, operate the defroster, and listen for a relay clicking. There's a bank of relays above the fusebox; maybe it's there. If so, you can probably just trip the factory relay instead of adding your own.
4. Sounds like that unit has its own onboard doorlock relays----very nice for when you need them, but they can be confusing when you don't. Those six wires are putting terminals 87,87a, and 30 into your hands, so you can wire them up as you wish. On the sticker on the brain, it should show which wire goes to which terminal........
--the 87a wires are not used.
--the two fused wires tied together, they will be either 87 or 30; in either case, tie them to ground.
--the two wires left, they will be 87 or 30; these are your negative doorlock outputs now; connect them to the JDL-PK.
(If you are familiar with relays already......when you hit Lock on the Astro, 87 and 30 are connected; all you're doing is configuring the relays to do what you want.)
5. You can but you shouldn't. If you tied them together, the climate controls would operate whenever you turned the key backward to play the radio.
I'm not familiar with the exact Astro unit you're using, but there is an extra onboard relay to suit your needs, along with a long length of white wire, with two female terminals, with a fuse on one end.
Put the female ends of the wire to 87 and 30 on the onboard relay; doesn't matter which goes where. Cut the white wire in half.
The fused end goes to constant power, the other end goes to the car's accessory wire--------then you must go into the programming menu, and set that onboard relay to act as an accessory.
(NOTE: That RED / black second accessory wire in the Jeep serves to activate the heated seats, and the air-conditioning compressor. If you don't care about either of these features, it would be okay to not power it at all.)
6. I have always just completed the entire install, and made the data connection the LAST connection of the job, and it seems to work out fine. I think I did that with the JDL-PK already plugged in.
7. They make it sound really complicated. There's a Sentry Key pellet inside there, just like what's in your key, and you've got to program it to the car. I think there's a hole on top, right? That should be where the pellet is.
So, what they want you to do is, fire up the ignition with the remote starter, while you hold the pellet up close to the keyhole, to program it.
I do it differently---I perform the install first---mount the ring around the keyhole, wire up the bypass, and so forth.
Then, follow the programming instructions. As long as you did everything right, the ring and the wired-up JDLPK will "show" the Sentry Key pellet to the car, and it should program just fine......if that doesn't work, you can try it their way after.
jefferskn 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 06, 2006 at 10:22 AM / IP Logged  
Thank you very much for the great information. Just a couple of things to add.
1. The Astrostart manual says the Dark Green wire is used to interface with OEM anti-theft devices with a (-)output when running. This sounds like the right wire to connect to the brown negative ground out when running wire on the JDLPK.
2. I think I will just skip the starter kill/antigrind wire.
3. On my 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I just tapped into the negative pulse wire that came from the rear defroster switch. Which I would assume would be the same wire that heads to the relay to trigger it.
4. The info you gave on the lock relays definitely clears things up. Since the 87 pin on the relay was fused I figured that would mean it needed to have (+) sent to it. Plus the fused wire is on the 87 pin on the relay which I have always used as the output wire of the relay. From what you say I can use the fused wire for ground which will also be what I want my output to be. I didn't realize that pin 30 & 87 on the relay could be switched around.
5. I will use the onboard relay for the 2nd accessory and program for accessory. I will leave 87a empty and use 30 for the constant power and 87 for my 2nd accessory wire.
6. The info you gave on the JDLPK programming and wiring also clears some things up as well.
7. Since the parking light output on the RS is (+) I am just going to use a relay with a resistor I read about in another post:
Relay setup:
86 to + parkinglight output from starter
85 to ground
30 to car side of cut yellow wire
87a to switch side of cut yellow wire
87 to the 1 k resistor, and the other side of the resistor to ground
Thanks again for all the great info. For the most part I had a good handle on the wiring but still had some things that needed clarifying which you did great with.
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Posted: January 06, 2006 at 2:46 PM / IP Logged  

The rear defrost is a negative trigger blue/white at the defrost switch harness. You can use the P-5 program it for aux 1 or 2 activate ONLY when remote started...the astrochart does not say if its a latched pulse or not, so test the wire!  The P3 lock harness.The relays are controlled internally. The BROWN / white, and the blue/white, go to ground. The WHITE/ brown, WHITE/ blue are not used. Brown is lock, blue is unlock. The P4 pin 6 is an anti-grind setup. connect it to the  keyside of the starter wire and program active in leval 4

Your second accs. must be connected wire a relay for POS, fused at 30 amps and trigger it with one of the programable outputs...set for accs.in level 5,6,7,or 8 depending on witch one you use!

The P2 dk.green is ground while running, it comes on 1 second before remote start, and stays active till one second after runtime or manual shut off. This is the corrct wire for your module 

jefferskn 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 06, 2006 at 3:57 PM / IP Logged  
KarTuneMan,
Thanks for the additional info. Is there any reason why I can't use the built in relay (P5) for accessory2 on the 4204U module and then program it for accessory? One less relay I have floating around under the dash.
Hooking the rear defrost to aux1 or 2 and program for active only when remote started is a better idea than using the trunk release on output #3 on P2-pin15 but I don't see anywhere in the installation manaul using the word aux. I do see where user manual where it says the 4 button remote only has trunk & utility 1. Can you clarify what the 4204U unit actually has available to it on the remote and if some utilities are on the brain but not on the remote. I'm a little confused on that.   
Do I need to wire a relay and cut the starter wire to use The P4 pin 6 as an anti-grind setup. You said to connect it to the keyside of the starter wire and program active in leval 4. I am assuming in order to for it to cut power to the starter I have to cut the starter wire and wire it to a relay like a starter kill?
Thanks again for all the great info.
jefferskn 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: January 06, 2006 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  
One more question, since the 4204U does not have an alarm on it. What is the valet button used for? I don't see anywhere in the manual where it says it's needed for programming the remote start features on the 4204.

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