the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

gmc sierra 1500 2002 clifford rsx 3.5


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
benjamin7062 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: July 25, 2007 at 4:21 PM / IP Logged  
Hello --
I'm attempting a DIY install of a Clifford RSX 3.5 and the 1700g bypass. THese devices are going into a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500. If I totally bomb this I have a professional installer on standby expecting my call after something starts smelling like burned plastic.
My question is about the bypass and locks. THe documentation is minimal. The RSX 3.5 controls the locks yet the 1700g indicates it controls the locks throught he OSDII. Should I avoid wiring up the RSX 3.5 and allow the OSDII to manage the lock mechanisms?
Also, since the system has a factory security-ish system should the RSX 3.5's factory disarm wire be hooked up to the vehicle or will this be managed through the OSDII as well?
Lastly, I'm willing to pay one of you expert types to be minor phone support. I'm an Engineer by day so I have all the equipment for this; but have only a few 'comfort' questions before I start really getting into this. If you are interested I would need minor assistance this evening/tomorrow. Please PM me on these forums with an offer.
I have a login to directtech for wiring and locating wires isn't a problem. I'm also using a fluke for my DMM. Just need big picture answers before I go zapping stuff.
Thanks guys!
~Benjamin
azaudio41 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: December 28, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: July 26, 2007 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged  

you will need to connect the 3.5 lock and unlock wires to the 1700g, they're then controlled through the purple data wire(osdII).  the factory arm/ disarm is also controlled this way therefore no additional wiring is needed, just make sure the lock/ security light on the dash lights up when armed and turns off after about 15 seconds

JWorm 
Platinum - Posts: 2,208
Platinum spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New Hampshire, United States
Posted: July 26, 2007 at 10:37 PM / IP Logged  
The 1700g CAN NOT control the doorlocks on a 2002 Sierra. The doorlocks are only on the databuss on 2003+ GM fullsize trucks.
The 1700g can only bypass the Passlock II on your truck. All the other features of it won't work.
Hook up the factory alarm disarm of the RSX3.5 to the lt. green factory alarm disarm wire at the BCM. You can also get door triggers, door locks, horn, and parking lights there as well.
Remove the instrument cluster and there will be a white wire leading to the cluster. That is your tach wire. Remove the headlight switch assembly and you have a decent spot to mount the bypass module, relay pack and alarm brain.
This is an easy truck. All GM fullsize trucks from 98-02 are the same. It was the most common vehicle for me to do when I was installing at that time.
another-kelly 
Silver - Posts: 618
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 27, 2007 at 12:52 PM / IP Logged  

like JWorm stated. it's an easy truck. 1700G will only do the passlock bypass. almost everything can be picked up at the ignition harness and right below that at the BCM.

one more thing. unless you are an authorized retailer/installer of DEI products, don't post on directechs forums (not saying you have, just advising not to) 

benjamin7062 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: July 27, 2007 at 5:02 PM / IP Logged  

Kelly/Jworm --

Everything you stated ended up being true.  I have hooked up the entire system.  Let me just say what a new found respect I have for this profession.  I've installed all my aftermarket stereos/gps, etc.  Installing an alarm isn't more difficult; just a huge pain in the ass!  And I did it on an 'easy' truck!  I will 'never' do this again!  =)

Wire locations were easy and all were located at the bcm.  Only time I had to enter the engine compartment was for the siren.  I also installed a 530T window module.  This also works as expected but the Windows in these older GM trucks suck.  Even at the highest resistance setting   At brief inspection I don't see any good way to make this situation better.   When I need to get two metal joints to loosen up or stop squeeking you throw a little WD-40 on there and it's all better for a while.  Is there something equivalent for door windows?  Oviously WD-40 and a window don't go together.  I didn't really see a 'track' for the window but it's hard to tell how it works with such small access holes.

Anyway, overall I'm pretty happy and the install went well.  Thanks for the help on these forums.  Lots of good information here on the12volt. 

Kind Regards,

Benjamin


Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, October 31, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer