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2007 hyundai santa fe tach wire?


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yamadogger 
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Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: April 14, 2008 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  

First of all, what a great website!  I'm a novice, installing a Clifford 20.5x remote start on my wife's 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD 3.3L.  Everything has gone okay so far but I'm having trouble finding the tach wire.  The info I have lists the tach as Blue/orange or white in the passenger kick, blue 24 pin plug 22.  When I test this wire I get over 12 v AC and it doesn't vary with engine speed.  Can someone tell me if this is the correct wire and if not, where can I find the tach wire?  Also, will I need to connect to the alarm disarm or key sense for this installation?  Thanks in advance.

Paul

dtk1 
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Copper spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: April 14, 2008 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  
when i did this car for te first time the tach too me the longest but from now on i only use any fuel injector wire that is NOT pink or orange
offroadzj 
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: April 14, 2008 at 9:37 PM / IP Logged  
i dont have the info in front of me, but you can always get the tach from one of the fuel injectors. On all of the injectors, there will be a common wire and an uncommon wire. Use any of the uncommon wires for tach.
HTH
Kenny
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
offroadzj 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Posted: April 14, 2008 at 9:39 PM / IP Logged  
well he beat me to it.. lol
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
KarTuneMan 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 12:06 AM / IP Logged  

Blue/orange behind the guage cluster.

yamadogger 
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Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: April 15, 2008 at 5:21 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the immediate responses!  Hopefully the tach/fuel injector wire is all I have left.  Last night when I gave the system a quick try the car would start then immediately die.  I was assuming this was due to the tach wire not being hooked up yet but is there an immobilizer I need to bypass as well?  Also not sure yet if the key I had in the bypass module was adjusted correctly or the loop around the ingnition switch adjusted right.  Im assuming the transponder in the key is buried in the black plastic area?  I have a Directed Electronics 29402 bypass module and I just centered the black part of the key under the 10 looped wires.  The transponder loop I wrapped around the black plastic ring of the ignition switch just behind the blue bezel light - I'm assuming this is correct?  Thanks again for the help.

Paul

yamadogger 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: April 15, 2008 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged  

Okay, progress but now I need some more help.  I found the tach wire, blue orange behind instrument panel.  Tied into that & now it will start & run fine w/ remote start but I have a few things messed up. 

First, I have done nothing with the factory arm/disarm yet and when I lock & unlock the doors with the Clifford remote they lock & unlock but do not arm/disarm the factory security system.  What wires do I need to tie into to get this to work.  The literature I have describes two wires in the BCM in a white 20 pin connector but I see nothing like what they describe. 

Second, I thought this vehicle had a transponder system but I can get it to remote start & run with no key in the bypass module.  How can this be? 

Third (and I think this is related to the first issue), I can lock the doors and arm the factory security with the factory remote.  Then I can remote start it.  At that point I can't unlock the doors with either the factory remote or the Clifford remote.  In order to unlock the doors I have to shut down the engine with the Clifford remote and then I can unlock them with either remote again.  I obviously have things hosed up with the factory security system but I want to get some good advice on where to go from here. If anyone has ideas, please include wire locations/colors to help out this amateur.  Thanks again.

Paul

KarTuneMan 
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Posted: April 15, 2008 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  

Someone here needs to have the diagram that shows the locks on this thing. There are 3 wires invloved, and I do not type well enough to EVEN attempt trying to describe the diagram. But here

goes....The 3rd wire is the key position sensor. You will need 1 relay and 2 diodes.  You have 3 wires found in the drivers kick in a brown plug. A pink, a BROWN / orange, and a gray.

Start with unlock. Take your output and Y it off, (split it) here is where the diodes come into play. Put them on the unlock with the cathode (the white line) facing the R/S. One half of this goes to

the pink unlock disarm wire. The other half will go to pin 87a of your relay, THEN to the the gray wire that has been cut, it will attach to the end NOT now connected to the brown plug. Are ya with

meso far?    NOW.... lock/arm. Take your lock output to the relay, pin 86. Pin 85 will get 12volts. Pin 30 will connect to the other end of that gray wire you cut. The end at the brown plug.

Set your unlock pulse to double... first pulse will disarm, second will unlock ALL doors.

yamadogger 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 14, 2008
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: April 16, 2008 at 5:20 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks, great description - I'll give it a shot tonight.  Does anyone have any ideas why this thing will remote start with no key in the bypass module?  Almost seems like there is no transponder in the key/car?
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: April 16, 2008 at 11:52 AM / IP Logged  

I believe some of the Kia's and Hyundai's are like that.... US and Canadian models...

All of the info I can read says it DOES need a bypass. 

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