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remote start clifford 50.7x


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dplus 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2010
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 3:46 PM / IP Logged  
Hey i'm new to this forum, and decided to join because i really need some input. this forum has helped out big time. i just installed a 50.7x clifford alarm into my tacoma 2002 xtra cab prerunner automatic, the alarm works fine but cannot get the remote starter to work. instead i get a remote start error on the 2 way remote...
here's my wiring scheme
for the H3 wire harness:
(module -> tacoma wires)
Pink -> BLK/RED
RED / WHT -> WHT
Violet -> car side of starter wire
GRN -> key side of starter wire
RED -> WHT/RED
Pink/WHT -> BLK/YEL
Pink/BLK -> not used
RED / BLK -> not used
for the RS in:
BLK/WHT -> grounded for automatic trans
Violet/WHT -> light GRN/BLK near glove dept
BRN -> GRN/WHT above brake pedal
Gray -> hood switch connected..
BLU/WHT -> not used
please let me know i can get the remote starter to work. do i need to add a relay switch, etc??
~DPlus
dplus 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2010
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  
here's the wiring schematic i used...
PART       COLOR      LOCATION      DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT      WHITE (+) and WHITE/ RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
STARTER      BLACK (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
STARTER 2      N/A           
IGNITION 1      BLACK/ RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
IGNITION 2      BLACK / YELLOW (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
IGNITION 3      N/A           
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1      BLUE/RED (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2      N/A           
KEYSENSE      LIGHT GREEN/ RED (-)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )      PURPLE / RED (-)      @ FRONT of FUSEBOX, 22-PIN Plug     
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )      GREEN (+)      @ BACK of FUSEBOX, 12-PIN Plug     
POWER LOCK      GRAY (TYPE B) See NOTE *1      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
POWER UNLOCK      PURPLE (TYPE B) See NOTE *1      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
LOCK MOTOR WIRE      BLUE/WHITE (+)      IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, 12-PIN Plug, Pin 10     
DOOR TRIGGER      See NOTE *2      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX      22171_TACOMA_(-) NEGATIVE DOOR PIN ISOLATION CIRCUIT.pdf
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION      GREEN (-), Requires Part #775 Relay      @ 22-PIN PLUG, FRONT of FUSE BOX     
TRUNK RELEASE      N/A           
SLIDING POWER DOOR      N/A           
HORN      GREEN/ RED (-)      @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS     
TACH      LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-)      See NOTE *3     
WAIT TO START LIGHT      N/A           
BRAKE      GREEN / WHITE (+)      @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL     
FACTORY ALARM DISARM      N/A           
ANTI-THEFT      N/A           
NOTES
NOTE *1 Test the LOCK and UNLOCK wires ONLY by operating the KEY in the PASSENGER DOOR LOCK CYLINDER. Wires will not test from POWER DOOR LOCK SWITCH.
NOTE *2 THE DRIVER DOOR TRIGGER IS GREEN(-), THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR TRIGGER IS GREEN / WHITE(-) AND THE REAR DOOR TRIGGER IS YELLOW /GREEN(-) . WHEN CONNECTING TO AN ALARM SYSTEM, USE ALL (3) DOOR TRIGGER WIRES AND DIODE ISOLATE, TO CONNECT, SEE DIAGRAM
NOTE *3 on the 4-Cylinder engine, the tach wire is at the DATA LINK CONNECTOR to the RIGHT of the STEERING COLUMN, on the V-6 engine, the tach wire is a the IGNITER on the PASSENGER FENDER, below the AIR FILTER BOX.
     
EXTRA INFORMATION
~DPlus
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:28 PM / IP Logged  
Is an immobiliser by-pass needed? Have you properly programmed tach?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:34 PM / IP Logged  
Also you should have connected the RED / black.
dplus 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2010
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:34 PM / IP Logged  
since i have an 2002 tacoma i believe an immobilizer by pass is not needed... as far as programming the tach i have not done that yet. don't i have to get the remote start to work first to program the tach?
~DPlus
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,789
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged  

H3/9  RED / Black to +12v Constant  ( White or WHITE/ Red at ignition switch harness )

No bypass modules listed ( Builldog Security or iDatalink ) so it might not need one.

Soldering is fun!
dplus 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2010
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
when you say RD/BLK,you are talking about the H3/9 wire right?
~DPlus
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:39 PM / IP Logged  
DEI shows no immobiliser needed, before completion, run engine for about 1 minute or until temp. gauge starts moving, then programme tach, also set up the unit as auto transmission.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  
Yes,you never powered up the starter feed! Bloody amateurs, RTFM!
I've never installed one, they've only just become available here but you obviously never read the instructions especially what to hook up and the sections on tach programming and auto transmissions.
dplus 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2010
Posted: October 24, 2010 at 4:52 PM / IP Logged  
i have it set for auto, i've connected the RD/BLK and still the error occurs.. so the H3/6 RED, H3/2 RED / WHT, and H3/9 RED / BLK all need to be tied to 12V const?
~DPlus
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