rs problem in a 07 explorer st cm6000

New install on: Ford Explorer Sport Trac 2007 XLT v6 Compustar CM6000 brain w/ RF-1WG5-900SH remote DEI PKFM P.A.T.S. bypass Having trouble with remote starting this system. I really only want the system for keyless entry and remote start, im planning on on hooking everything up and maybe get some more advanced features and drone etc later, just looking to get RS before it gets too cold. I will still be hooking up the rest of the system, but security is not my concern. Ive hooked up the heavy gauge connector with pre-wired anti grind (YE and YE/BK facing correct), all circuits test as the manual says they should before hooking up brain (w/key off, w/ key on, w/key start). On the small gauge 20 pin harness I have hooked up: tach, siren, hood-pin, brake, door trigger, lock, unlock. I used wire guides found on this site and others, I did not hook my 12v constant to the ignition harness, it runs straight from battery. Bypass programs correctly, compustar remotes are programmed. The alarm features I have installed all seem to be working correctly. The tach programming procedure learns successful. Green loop cut for automatic. Jumpers: Door - , Glow/Key +, Light/Trunk light Things I have tried to get remote start to work: without key with pats bypass with key with pats bypass with key without pats bypass with key in ON without bypass with key bypassing anti grind relay No matter what ive tried this what happens when remote start is pressed: The brain clicks acknowledging the command to RS. The park light flashes once when the command is sent to RS. You hear the brain and truck dash clicking energizing various relays when the remote start tries. All of this happens for less than a second, as well as the dash lighting up for under a second while it attempts to start. The CM6000 manual says the parking lights should flash a code to indicate the RS problem, this never happens. It just seems like the attempt is not lasting long enough. If there was a error flag not to start it doesnt seem like you would hear all the circuits energizing.     Ive not reprogrammed any of the options since all the default ones suit my setup. Isnt the brain suppose to put 12V out on the heavy yellow lead? This never happens even if I set he DMM to the max function to see if it tries to ramp up, but it only jumps by .010 volts. Even if I unhook yellow from the starter wire (no load) there is no voltage. Can someone tell me what are the bare minimum connections I can make to test out RS? I have tried to hook up other connections from the 20 pin harness, but with no change I have removed them. Tried: keysense, E-Brake, GWR to pats bypass, The compustar has arm and disarm, they seem to be optional will they be necessary? The various wire color sheets are vague on what wires to use. Im not real sure if my vehicle has factory security or is it just keyless entry. Thoughts?

You didn't mention if you connected the ground wire for the remote start.Nissan Master Tech.

Yes to Ground, right beside e-brake. Yes to GWR wire on 20 Pin black to PKFM brown. 12v and Ground for PKFM piggyback off heavy gauge harness. The other PKFM wires go to pats: RX, TX, Ign. Even if I totally remove PKFM and put key in ignition wont crank.

How did you make your connections to the vehicle? Solder or t-splice?Nissan Master Tech.

All are soldered, with heatshrink.

Solved Was a stupid mistake. Turns out the line I used for footbrake was same color totally different circuit. I picked it up off of a splice that was more convenient than going to pedal. Whats odd is the part of setup where you are supposed to hold brake for a couple of seconds and press "start" on remote to learn the tach the siren chirps and light flashes to confirm a learned tach. So kind of created a false confirmation, or it just learns the tach regardless of brake pedal. What confirmed it for me was I was able to start the car with key in with just heavy gauge connector hooked to alarm. This was the first thing I did today, so I knew it was fouling from something on the 20 pin connector. From there just I just started testing each circuit... Thanks to all who post here, this site has been a good resource for me for years, just never had a reason to post til now.

Reason probably why the programming worked was because the blue/white wire off the compustar system saw 12v and when you hit the button it programmed. Always test the wire. How did you test the brake wire previously?