94 sonoma / avital 4103 issues

Hey guys, I am new to the threads here, but not to to 12volt. Been using the resources here for YEARS now for diagrams and installation guides. I've ran into some troubles and hoping I could get the communities help :) While searching through the forum i found a recent topic very similar to mine, so i figured i would just post, here. I have done a few installs before, a 98 grand prix, '05 kia spectra, 91 TSI Talon, 95 TSI talon, and others. This truck is giving me quite the headache tho! (also this is the first time using a directed project) Thanks in advance for any advice or help, its really greatly appreciated. 1. Avital 4103 Remote start 2. 94 GMC Sonoma I have no relays or bypass modules. Currently I get nothing from the start feature on the remote. The door look buttons will activate a light on the avital unit and will click a relay or something in the device, and lights flash on the car, but the door locks dont move (i didnt lock them and test unlock yet - will do today on lunch; only tested lock when unlocked) But I DID get response from the remote, so i feel its grounded ok, etc, somethings just not hooked up right for the starter to work. Might this help me? - H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - Connect to Pink wire on Heavy Gauge harness AND what about this wire, does it need to be sent a ground pulse? - H1/4: (-)Activation Input - N/A H1/1: (-)Factory alarm disarm - NOT HOOKED UP H1/2: (-)Factory rearm - NOT HOOKED UP H1/3: (+)Ignition out (to alarm) - NOT HOOKED UP H1/4: (-)Activation Input - NOT HOOKED UP H1/5: (-)Ground when locked - NOT HOOKED UP H1/6: (-)Horn Output - Ran to black horn wire in column H1/7: (-)Trunk Release Output - NOT HOOKED UP H1/8: Ground - tapped ground on column H1/9: (+/-) Light Flash - tapped switch harness 4-pin satellite harness 1: (-)Status Output - NOT HOOKED UP 2: (-) Accessory Output - NOT HOOKED UP 3: (-) Starter Output - NOT HOOKED UP 4: (-) Ignition Output - NOT HOOKED UP Heavy gauge relay wiring 1: (-) Output to Ignition Circuit - to heavy pink 2: (-) Output to Starter Circuit - to heavy purple 3: (-) Output to Accessory Circuit - to heavy orange that tested acc 4: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to heavy red in column 5: (-) Programmable output for accessory or ignition - NOT HOOKED UP 6: (-) (30A) High Current 12 Input - to heavy red in column Door lock harness 1: (-) Unlock output - black and white in kick panel 2: N/A 3: (-) Unlock output - light blue in kick panel Remote start harness (H2) H2/1: (-) Neutral safety switch input - directly grounded, no switch. H2/2: Tachometer wire - to white wire at coil H2/3: (+) Brake switch shutdown - to white wire at brake switch H2/4: (-) Hood pin switch - NOT HOOKED UP H2/5 (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output - NOT HOOKED UP **NOTE - horn also doesnt beep with systemTony B

The road to success is always under construction. - Lily Tomlin

After reading more into it, it will need a 451m to interface. The unit runs - for both lock and unlock. The truck is reverse polarity. Hood pin wire and main reds are good, ill meter brown to be sure. The tach programming, have not done that yet.   This is what the book had said, and what I had did up till last night when i called it quits for the evening. "Tach learning ➢ Virtual tach To program Virtual Tach: 1. After the install is complete, remote start the car. 2. If the car does not start on the first attempt, let the remote start attempt again. 3. Once the car starts, let it run until the parking lights come on. 4. When the parking lights come on, shut off the remote start with the remote - that’s it! Virtual Tach is programmed. Virtual Tach handles disengaging the starter motor during remote starting – it does not address over-rev. If the customer wants to have the over-rev protection capability the tach wire must be connected. This may involve more installation shop charges than initially quoted. Important: If the Virtual Tach mode over cranks or doesn’t crank the vehicle long enough to start and run the car, use the Bitwriter to add or subtract the starter output time. You can adjust the output time in increments of 50mSec of the learned time using the Bitwriter." Then it continues to say - To learn the tach signal Ill be following that procedure when i get home as well I will be returning to this vehicle and getting back to work in about an hour. I will report findings immediately after. Thanks!!Tony B

The road to success is always under construction. - Lily Tomlin

got it.. and Im pretty embrassed to say; but i will, to show the importance of the matter. Tap Splice Connectors are WORTHLESS Never trust anything but a good soldier and tape/wire shrink. Went through and tested all my connections and found 2 bad connections, two very important connections.. - nuetral safety switch, and the tach sensor wire. Removed all my crappy connectors and replaced them with a soldier and it fires right up as it should. Got the 451ms on order and got 2 more cars this week, yay. Tony B

The road to success is always under construction. - Lily Tomlin

check to make sure you dont have a 2nd ignition wire that needs to be powered up. it would be either white or pink/white. tach learning wont come into play unless you already have the engine checking feature changed to tach. its default is virtual tach. for the locks they are reverse polarity (aka 5wire) and relays or 451m are needed. the horn function must be programmed to on. the default setting for the horn function is off. do not connect the H1/3 or H1/4 wires. you wont need them. I would also relocate your ground. the steering column is definitrly not a good ground. DEI products can sometimes be picky with a so-so ground. scrape some paint from the kick panel and use a self-tapping screw

thanks for your reply, i did get the unit running yesterday evening. Even went locally and picked up a 451m. Thats what I struggle with now. I was using the wires in the kick panel to wire up the 5 wire reverse polarity switch and I dont think thats the right part of the wires to access. I couldnt get it to work using the included instructions, Im going to move to the switch tonight and try and wire it from the switch. Should i be using two wires from the system, or 4? The directions make it seem like i use two based on the picture, but what i read on the description makes it seem like i need 4.Tony B

The road to success is always under construction. - Lily Tomlin