ford pats, 1999 f150, dei 555p

Hello, I have a 1999 Ford F150 5.4L 4x4. I have been trying to install a remote start in since November. The Compustar CM6200 is in and working however I cannot seem to find a bypass that will work with my pats system. I initially had only one key for the truck so I tired a Fortin Key-Overide-All with no success. Spent hours on the phone with Fortin and finally they told me to go somewhere else. A forum member recommended DEI 555P. That seemed like a good option but required an addition key. I went to the ford dealer to have a key made and programmed. After no success with the DEI unit, I am lead to believe by the DEI tech that the dealership "cloned" the key instead of programming it which is why it is not working. I am considering breaking the pill out of the old key and gluing it with crazy glue to the PATS module in the steering column. IS this a good idea, or bad idea???????????????????????? Is it possible that pill will ever stop working???? What is the success rate with this sort of thing? Do I have any other options? DG1971 Chevelle SS

1989 Corvette

1996 Impala SS

The correct way to do it would be to get a new key made correctly. Does either head of the key say Stratic or something like that (can't remember the exact name off the top of my head). If so then it is definitely a clone and not a 2nd key. Also, have you verified the correct RX and TX connections? Have you tried switching them to see if the key-override-all will work then? Are you connecting the bypass in d2d or w2w install mode? Finally, try reconnecting the key-override-all and program it with the Manual Transmission step (manually powering the ignition instead of trying to remote start). I have had very good luck with the key-override and I'm quite surprised that it was giving you an issue. Here is the install diagram for that vehicle. Check through all of your connections and make sure they are 100% then try what I posted above.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

You should only need one working key to program the bypass ( PATS1 ).  The Fortin Key-Override-All install guide shows using only one

key to program the module.

You should have the Type A transponder bypass connector on that truck and it should be about 8" down the steering column

from the ignition switch.  The wire colors are as follows :

Vehicle  Years        Pin      TX                    Pin      RX     

F-150     99-02         4 WHITE/ LtGreen          3 Gray/Orange

My favoriye bypass for 40 Bit Fords is the DEI 1100F ( actually made by iDatalink).    Here is a link to the install guide :

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=696    About $15 at "online" sellers.

Soldering is fun!

offroadzj wrote: The correct way to do it would be to get a new key made correctly. Does either head of the key say Stratic or something like that (can't remember the exact name off the top of my head). If so then it is definitely a clone and not a 2nd key. Also, have you verified the correct RX and TX connections? Have you tried switching them to see if the key-override-all will work then? Are you connecting the bypass in d2d or w2w install mode? Finally, try reconnecting the key-override-all and program it with the Manual Transmission step (manually powering the ignition instead of trying to remote start). I have had very good luck with the key-override and I'm quite surprised that it was giving you an issue. Here is the install diagram for that vehicle. Check through all of your connections and make sure they are 100% then try what I posted above.

I am done with the Key-Override-All; I spent hours the first time around verifying my connections, in addition to speaking with their tech support for hours. I currently have the DEI 555P installed so if I am going to try and get anything to function correctly that will be the unit I am going to use. Key just says FORD on it. It was purchased from my local ford dealer.1971 Chevelle SS

1989 Corvette

1996 Impala SS

kreg357 wrote: You should only need one working key to program the bypass ( PATS1 ).  The Fortin Key-Override-All install guide shows using only one key to program the module. You should have the Type A transponder bypass connector on that truck and it should be about 8" down the steering column from the ignition switch.  The wire colors are as follows : Vehicle  Years        Pin      TX     Pin      RX       F-150     99-02         4 WHITE/ LtGreen          3 Gray/Orange My favoriye bypass for 40 Bit Fords is the DEI 1100F ( actually made by iDatalink).    Here is a link to the install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=696    About $15 at "online" sellers.

Those are my RX TX wires.... Don't know why my 555P isn't programming; can't see how it could be any other reason other than my key... however I have no way to really prove it.1971 Chevelle SS

1989 Corvette

1996 Impala SS

If it says Ford on it then MOST LIKELY it is a genuine 2nd key... it doesn't guarantee it, but its more than likely. I've never had good luck with any of the DEI 555 series bypasses so its very possible that it just won't program to the vehicle. I personally think you would be better off going back to the key-override... but you sound like you've made up your mind. From what I can find on the 555P it looks like it is a pretty straight forward installation: Red - Constant 12v. <-- make sure you have a good solid 12 volts on this wire. Black - Chassis Ground <-- Make sure you have a good solid ground (test this with the red to check both) Blue - Ground out when running from remote starter Yellow/Black - Immobilizer data (Pin 3 on immobilizer connector) Brown - Immobilizer sync (Pin 4 on immobilizer connector) Pink - car side of cut ignition wire on immobilizer connector Pink/White - Key side of cut igntion wire on immobilizer connector. I also found that the ignition wire on the immobilizer connector changes between Pins 1 and 2... so make sure to test carefully and make sure you have the correct wire. If you really want to just simply bypass the immobilizer system then yes you can glue the chip, but it is not the correct way to do it and the possibility for problems will always exist. If you do go that route make sure to remove the chip from ALL keys otherwise it will read 2 chips and still immobilize the vehicle.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote: I also found that the ignition wire on the immobilizer connector changes between Pins 1 and 2... so make sure to test carefully and make sure you have the correct wire.

The rest of what you posted I have all correct. Please clarify what you mean by the statement above. I cut the red wire leading from the transponder module to the four pin connector under the dash. This wire was giving me 12+ current at ignition. My wiring diagram from DEI shows a blue wire at that connector however it does not exist. Per tech support... I am to test for 12volt current which I found at the red wire... the half that leads to the car gets connected to the pink wire, and the other half leading to the transponder gets connected to the pink/white wire. DG1971 Chevelle SS

1989 Corvette

1996 Impala SS

It sounds like you have it right. The correct wire should show 12volts with the ignition "on" and should drop off if you turn the ignition "off". It sounds like either you have a bad key copy or the 555P won't program to the vehicle (which I have found A LOT with the 555 series bypasses). So you are stuck with either getting a new key made, going back to they key-override, getting a new bypass, or disabling the immobilizer system.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Sounds to me like there might be the maximum amount of keys programmed to the ECM.. The dealer would have to scan it and reset all your keys.. had to do that on a Taurus