issues with a python 1401/viper 5101

Hi all, I've got a Python branded 1401 unit that I'm trying to install on my 1997 Toyota Avalon. All day I've been trying to make it work, but I kept getting the NSS error (8 parking light flashes). It was grounded properly, so I was utterly confused. Turns out I didn't have the toggle switch on. Hah. But now it'll flash my lights once as if it's trying to start. I can hear a click from the brain, which is what I can only assume is it trying to send a signal to the starter, which leads me to believe I messed something up there on the remote start harness (H3). Part of the problem is that I have conflicting documentation on what wire is what. The wiring guides here on 12volt differ from Bulldog Security's. This is what's on the install guide. H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT H3/2 RED / WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Online, I was told to connect the red, RED / white, and RED / black wires to Ignition 2, which I believe is solid black on this model. Does that even work? Let me know. Thanks, wtcnbrwndo4u

Ignition 2 refers to a wire which goes live when ignition is selected by the key then dumps out on crank. It usually controls circuits such as HVAC. wash wipe etc. The three you mentioned should go to a constant 12V+.

Ohhh. Okay. Well, do I hook anything up at all to the Ignition 2 wire on my car? H3/6 perhaps? Currently, wires 6 and 7 are NC.

Yes to H3/6 to ignition 2. Your constants at the switch should be white and WHITE/ red. By the way, don't assume ANY guide is accurate. Only use them as a BASIS for test and verification.

Perfect. Now I know what to do. Thanks greatly for your help. I was staring at those wires and the guides forever. On a completely unrelated note, there are two wires for door triggers, violet and green on the main harness (H1). It's listed on the wiring diagrams as RED / white for this car, but I'm unsure if I need to hook these two up. I mean, lock/unlock works without it. Do I need them hooked up?

Use green to the RED / white, violet not used. You will need it for programming functions.

howie ll wrote: Ignition 2 refers to a wire which goes live when ignition is selected by the key then dumps out on crank. It usually controls circuits such as HVAC. wash wipe etc. The three you mentioned should go to a constant 12V+.

shouldnt ignition wires stay live during crank?

There's no hard and fast rule except this one:- The only circuits needed during crank are involved in starting the car. ignition, engine management starter motor, fuel primer. All other ignition circuits such as heating, wipers, blower fans, cooling fans, windows etc. Not exactly meant to be running on a freezing cold weather start-up. Hence going dead on crank. Some manufacturers run two ACC outputs, e.g. Honda in that case the wire that doesn't control audio can be referenced as ignition 2. On BMWs, some Porsches and my Rover (effectively a Front wheel drive 5 Series) the ACC takes a part in the ignition cycle and must be treated as a second ignition 1. That's also why you can configure some R/S units to have the ignition 2 output as either live or not during crank. As a further example, ignition 2 on some Toyotas runs the instrument panel, gauges and warning lights but not needed to start the car. Our original poster confused constants with ignition. Further proof: with the key in the ignition on by-pass vehicles, try hot wiring but only connecting start and ignition 1. Excluding 2nd. starter wire vehicles on a cold day, I guarantee it will start and run.

yea i understand all that but my point was referring to the definition of "ignition wire" as opposed to the actual wiring instructions. directions and tech sheets can be wrong so i would go based off of how the wires test and behave. if power gets dropped during crank then it should be hooked up as such from the remote starter, which means that it should be hooked up as an accessory and not as an ignition. true there are plenty of cars that dont need every wire hooked up to start and run, and other cars that wont start without their accessory wires powered up. maybe im just misunderstanding what you mean when you said "the ACC takes a part in the ignition cycle and must be treated as a second ignition 1.". to me this means that you will take a wire that loses power during crank and feed it with an ignition source that does NOT lose power during crank. i just dont understand the reasoning of why you would change the behavior of a wire or maybe its just a different language and im just dumb...

You're quite right, I did say they were exceptions but in fact BMWs since 92 all work that way, connect the ACC wire as an ACC output and it won't start. The whole point I was trying to make is that ignitions 1 and 2 should be distinguished apart for very good reasons. All of course subject to testing.