98 blazer and python 1601

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myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: December 26, 2012 at 2:10 PM / IP Logged

Long time browser, but never really had a reason to post. But now I have gotten myself in over my head. Im working on a 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. I have downloaded the wiring diagrams and have gotten some of this done, just not sure where to go on the rest of these wires.

I have never done one of these before so please be patient lol. I am just going to post what wires I have according to the manual and where I have or havent attached them. Sorry there are so many, there was a remote start installed prior but I cant see how it wouldve worked with the passlock not bypassed and from what it looked like under there compared to the how to threads those wires werent even hooked up correctly

System is a Python 1601

The Main harness is as follows

Trunk Release output - Im not using this

12V constant - Red wire at main IGN harness

Parking Light Isolation wire (pin 87a of onboard relay) - WTH is this for and where does it go?

Chassis Ground - Grounded out

(+) Door trigger input - Dont think I use this because we have (-) trigger at BCM

(-)Trunk pin trigger input - Am planning on putting the pass. trigger to this since we have two seperate door triggers and the hatch is wired into this one. The write up I found had an orange wire as the one I need @ BCM but my plug has 2 orange wires and neither show a difference in ground with door open or closed although I think that may be another issue as well.

(-) Door Trigger input - Going to the tan wire at the BCM as shown in other thread

(-) Dome light supervision - Ive heard this is more work than its worth to install

(-)Remote start/turbo timer activation input - Not sure what goes to this

Parking Light output - Tapped into the Lt. Blue wire in the harness behind the headlight switch

(-) 500mA Ground when armed output - Do I need this for anything?

The Remote start harness is as follows

(+) Ignition 1 - tapped into IGN 1 wire on main harness

(+) Fused Ignition 2/Flex relay Input 87 - Not sure where this goes

(+) Accessory output - Tapped into accessory wire on main harness

(+) Starter output (Car side of the starter kill) - Connected to yellow wire to starter

(+) Starter input (key side of starter kill) - Connected to yellow wire going to key

(+) Fused Ignition 1 input - Not sure where this goes

(+) Ignition 2/Flex relay output - Tapped into Ignition 2 wire at main harness

(+) Flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of Flex Relay - Not sure where this goes

(+) Fused Accessory Starter input - Not sure where this goes.

I know this is a lot, and I havent even dug into the bypass yet)Xpress kit DB-ALL). But I figured it was smarter to knock atleast a part of this out before getting into more wiring.

Thanks in advance guys.

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

kreg357

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Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: December 26, 2012 at 4:31 PM / IP Logged

Here are the thick main ignition harness wire connections :

(+) Ignition 1 - tapped into IGN 1 wire on main harness Pink OK

(+) Fused Ignition 2/Flex relay Input 87 - Red +12V constant

(+) Accessory output - Tapped into accessory wire on main harness Orange OK

(+) Starter output (Car side of the starter kill) - Connected to yellow wire to starter OK

(+) Starter input (key side of starter kill) - Connected to yellow wire going to key OK

(+) Fused Ignition 1 input - Red +12V constant

(+) Ignition 2/Flex relay output - Tapped into Ignition 2 wire at main harness White OK

(+) Flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of Flex Relay - Not Used

(+) Fused Accessory Starter input - Red +12V constant

Soldering is fun!

myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: December 26, 2012 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged

Ok. So if all of those but the one go to a 12v can I splice them into one of the two constants at the ignition harness or should I run a separate wire to the battery for those 4 wires? And thank you!

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,783

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: December 26, 2012 at 7:07 PM / IP Logged

Check the ignition harness. There might be one or two +12V constant wires there. They have a RED / White 50 Amp wire listed but there might be a Red or another RED / White wire. If there is more than one +12V constant wire, split the load between them. Either way, run all 4 Python power wires to this ( these ) wire(s) and solder each.

Soldering is fun!

myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: December 26, 2012 at 7:30 PM / IP Logged

Awesome. There are two down there I'm just not positive on coloring. I will get those in there tomorrow and see what else I need. Thank you again!

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: January 03, 2013 at 12:25 AM / IP Logged

Ok, So I have everything ran and I got the system up and running.

My neutral safety switch was missing from the box, so I am wondering if there is anyway to get another of those? I have seen that many people just loop the wires off the connector but I dont even have the connector, so Im trying to find a place to purchase those.

My only problem with this is that when I hit the start button the blazer will start and run for approx 30 seconds and then it will shut off. After 10-15 seconds it restarts again. It has started everytime, but I cant imagine this is good for the starter motor. Im not really sure what would cause this. The Passlock II system is bypassed completely using a resistor inbetween the ORANGE / black and yellow Passlock wires so that shouldnt be my problem. Seems to run fine when started with the key. I did do the virtual tach method, is this my issue?

The remote start started and ran for a few minutes last night while testing it, and the only variable would be the ambient temp between the garage and my street. (60-65* in garage and 11-20*F outside)

Thanks

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,783

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: January 03, 2013 at 4:13 AM / IP Logged

Run a Tach wire and do the Tach Learn process. It is the most reliable way to remote start the vehicle.

Soldering is fun!

myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: January 12, 2013 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged

I have ran the tach wire however the dei system won't learn the tach. I changed it to voltage and now it works fine. I found the problem with the remote start. With the fuse in for the parking light flash it triggers the alarm and shuts the rs off. It also causes the siren to not chirp all thea time and the relays inside the unit have a different sound. Like they are spasming out. With the fuse pulled the siren chirps like normal and the relay clicks in a normal way. Any ideas?

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

kreg357

Platinum - Posts: 7,783

Joined: January 30, 2009

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: January 12, 2013 at 7:49 PM / IP Logged

Plenty of conflicting info about this.

Bulldog Security 1998 S-10 Blazer

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) WHITE (-) @ BCM, LIGHT BLUE plug, See NOTE #2

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ BCM, LIGHT BLUE plug, See NOTE #2

NOTE #2: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the RIGHT of the GAS PEDAL, below the

RADIO. The PLUGS on the BCM face the DRIVERS side of the vehicle.

Ready Remote 1998 Blazer

Parking Lights (+) lt. blue (+) dash relay block next to dash fuse block

Parking Lights (-) white (-) BCM, lt. blue plug, pin A5

Audiovox 1998 S-10 Blazer

Parking Lights LIGHT BLUE (+) AT LIGHT SWITCH

Omega 1998 Blazer

Parking Lamp L BLUE (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH **

** L BLUE (+) Wire For Parking Lights Is Also Located At The Body Bussed Electrical Center.

Think I would switch the R/S over to (-) Parking Light Output and connect to the White (-) Parking Light wire

at the Light Blue plug on the BCM. I have notes on a 2003 S-10 Pickup I did a while ago and that one was

Light Blue (+) at the Headlight switch. Always test with a DMM first...

Soldering is fun!

myprixxx

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 26, 2012

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: January 12, 2013 at 8:51 PM / IP Logged

Yeah I did the lt blue wire at the light switch. Just didn't know why it caused the brain to tweak the way it did. Do you think swapping it to the white wire at the bcm and switching the polarity to negative will help this? I will also add that the parking lights do not stay on when the vehicle is started, and all other kits I've seen do. Maybe just this system, but I thought it was odd.

Thanks

1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Electronic work in progress

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98 blazer and python 1601

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