2012 tacoma viper 5704 and pkall

I need some help, I installed the viper 5704 and used the pkall it came flashed to version 4.0. I used this post to help with the install http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/252032-how-install-viper-5704-alarm-remote-start.html I located all my wires with my power probe and double checked my connections. My question is I have all my alarm functions, lock, unlock,door triggers, hood pin and shock sensor. I don't have remote start, I downloaded the instruction from the xpresskit website and used the G key installation. I hit my remote start button and all I get is ACC, IGN ON and it shuts off "so no crank at all" and cycles again and shuts off. I'm not sure if its the bypass module or the viper need needs to be programmed.

Does your key have a "G" stamp on it?

Here is a link to the install guide you should use for the PKALL portion of the install :

http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7017&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

I can't open your link for any additional info to assist but there are some things you might need to do with the Viper.

Soldering is fun!

I do have a G Key and I use the connections on the passenger side behind my glove box and used GWR wire to the dark blue wire from my viper alarm "status out". I programmed the bypass and it flashed 10 times confirming it took.

Then the PKALL bypass should be OK.  You can test your remote start portion of the install by unplugging the PKALL's

Black CONN1 D2D / power connector, inserting a working key into the ignition switch ( but not turned ) and trying a Viperremote start.  This will verify all the Viper's H3 ignition / power connections.

Did you program the Viper to Tach Mode and perform the Viper Tach Learn?

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the link.  I think I remember Riverdog asking a few questions on this site during his prep work.  Hiswrite-up is excellent and very complete.  He had an earlier version Tacoma, so some of the info won't apply to yourtruck.  Here is a link to better wiring info ( as Bulldog seems to have omitted the IGN1 and IGN2 wires in their listing ) : http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Toyota&model=TacomaSoldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg for your help, I will trying to isolate the bypass tomorrow. I did do the Tach learn and automatic mode. I also went into the Viper menu and selected menu 3 option 4 for Tachometer yesterday after i looked at the Viper install sheet trying to program it. So if disconnect the D2D wire on the Bypass and insert my key and try to remote start the vehicle it should start b/c the bypass wouldn't matter if the key is in the ignition? I also read somewhere some Toyotas need 2 keys to program the PKALL?

Yes, the above test will eliminate the PKALL from the picture ( assuming the truck still starts normally with the key ) and use the key as the transponders signal source.  You can also get some validation from doing a PitStop.  This is where you start the truck with a key and then enter PitStop mode & remove the key.  The engine should continue to idle for the normal run time.  At this point the Viper is supplying the power to the ignition circuits. 

You can also use try the Vipers "Shutdown Diagnostics" to see if it logged a failure code.

The PKALL does need two working keys to allow programming on certain vehicles.  On your Tacoma with the "G" key, you connect to the IMI / IMO wires and only need one key to program.  The PKALL is actually a KeyOverRideAll module made by Fortin for XPressKit.  While the connector wire colors might be different, everything else is similar.  Here is a link to the KeyOverRideAll install guide ( see Connection 19 and Program 3 for your truck ) :

http://fortin.ca/download/7551/key-override-all_installation_guide_(new_look).rev-20130219.pdf

Soldering is fun!

I checked the diagnostic and it blinked 3 and 4, 3 ( indicated Low or No RPM )so, I checked my tach connection which is black and white at my DLC it was ok. The 4 blinks (indicated transmitter shutdown) ? So I'm still wondering whats going on with the remote start? Thanks again for all your advice !

Even if the bypass is wired wrong, the starter should crank. How did you wire the 2 starter circuits?