2005 corolla, viper remote start

Hello, I am in the process of installing a Viper 5706V remote start/security system in my wife's car. I wanted to make sure I had all of my connections correct. Do I use h2/1, h2/17, h2/21, and if so do I use a diode with them since they are -200mA? Also, does h2/5 connect to GWR on PKALL only or 3way splice into it and Keysense? and do I use a diode since h2/5 is -200mA Double-check my connections on the H3 harness as well! Here is a wiring diagram for my 05 Corolla: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49621 Here's a diagram I made, please advise any corrections, hopefully you can read it! H1 Harness (Main Harness), 6 Pin Connector           Viper Wire Number     Viper Wire Color     Polarity     Viper Wire Name     Connection Location     Corolla Wire Color H1/1     RED     +     12vDC CONSTANT INPUT      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     WHITE H1/2     BLACK     -     CHASSIS GROUND      GROUND     GROUND H1/3     BROWN     +     SIREN OUTPUT      ENGINE COMPARTMENT     RED H1/4     WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE      N/A    H1/5     WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT     DRIVER KICK PANEL     GREEN H1/6     ORANGE     (-) 500mA     GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT      N/A              Door Lock Harness, 3 Pin Connector           Viper Wire Number     Viper Wire Color     Polarity     Viper Wire Name     Connection Location     Corolla Wire Color 1     Blue     (-) 500mA     UNLOCK OUTPUT     DRIVER KICK PANEL     BLUE 2     Empty      3     Green     (-) 500mA     LOCK OUTPUT     DRIVER KICK PANEL     BLUE/WHITE           H2 Harness (Aux/Shutdown/Trigger), 24 Pin Connector           Viper Wire Number     Viper Wire Color     Polarity     Viper Wire Name     Connection Location     Corolla Wire Color H2/1     PINK/WHITE     (-) 200mA      IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT         H2/2     BLUE/WHITE     (-) 200mA     2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT         H2/3     RED / WHITE     (-) 200mA     TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT         H2/4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA     DOME LIGHT OUTPUT         H2/5     DARK BLUE     (-) 200mA     STATUS OUTPUT     CONNECTS TO BYPASS     BLUE/WHITE H2/6     WHITE/ BLACK     (-) 200mA     AUX 3 OUTPUT         H2/7     WHITE/ VIOLET     (-) 200mA     AUX 1 OUTPUT         H2/8     ORANGE / BLACK     (-) 200mA     AUX 4 OUTPUT         H2/9     GRAY     -     HOOD PIN INPUT     CONNECTS TO HOODPIN    H2/10     BLUE     -     TRUNK PIN INPUT         H2/11     WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT         H2/12     VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT     OBD-II     BLACK H2/13     BLACK/ WHITE     -     NEUTRAL SAFETY/PARKING BRAKE INPUT     GROUND     GROUND H2/14     GREEN/ BLACK     -     FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT         H2/15     GREEN     -     DOOR INPUT     DIMMER SWITCH     RED H2/16     BROWN / BLACK     (-) 200mA     HORN HONK OUTPUT         H2/17     PINK     (-) 200mA     IGNITION 1 OUTPUT         H2/18     VIOLET     +     DOOR INPUT         H2/19     VIOLET/BLACK     (-) 200mA     AUX 2 OUTPUT         H2/20     BROWN     +     BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT     BRAKE PEDAL     GREEN / WHITE H2/21     VIOLET / YELLOW     (-) 200mA     STARTER OUTPUT         H2/22     GRAY/BLACK     -     DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT         H2/23     ORANGE     (-) 200mA     ACCESSORY OUTPUT         H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA     FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT                   H3 Harness (Remote Start), 10 Pin Heavy Gauge Connector           Viper Wire Number     Viper Wire Color     Polarity     Viper Wire Name     Connection Location     Corolla Wire Color H3/1     PINK     +     IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     IGNITION SWITCH     BLACK/ WHITE H3/2     RED / WHITE     +     FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT(30A FUSED)     IGNITION SWITCH     BLACK H3/3     ORANGE     +     ACCESORY OUTPUT     IGNITION SWITCH     BLUE/RED H3/4     VIOLET     +     STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)     IGNITION SWITCH     RED H3/5     GREEN     +     STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)     IGNITION SWITCH     RED H3/6     RED     +     IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT(30A FUSED)     IGNITION SWITCH     WHITE H3/7     PINK/WHITE     +     FLEX RELAY OUTPUT(CAR SIDE)     IGNITION SWITCH     BLACK / YELLOW H3/8     PINK/BLACK     +     FLEX RELAY INPUT(CAR SIDE)     IGNITION SWITCH    H3/9     RED / BLACK     +     ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT(30A FUSED)     IGNITION SWITCH     WHITE H3/10     EMPTY N/A        

Also, do I need to use a relay on the H3 harness? if so, how do I wire it up?

No relay needed on H3 harness, as there are internal relays already. H2 connections mentioned are not required in yout 05 corolla, and no diodes needed as diodes are already built into the units output as well. h2/5 you need 2 diodes, diode bands towards the unit branching in a " Y " shape. One to the pkall, second to the keysense for disarmTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Everything looks pretty good. A few comments here to make things a little easier: 1: I respectfully, and only partially, disagree with Tedmond. You shouldn't need to connect anything other than PKALL green to keysense, because your car doesn't have a factory alarm. That being said, test the car out for an alarm anyway, because there is the possibility it has a dealer-installed Toyota accessory alarm. 2: I wouldn't hook the orange accessory wire to the blue/red in the car. It powers up the cigarette lighter, radio, power mirrors, and some other non-essentials. I'd prefer the radio remain quiet during remote start. Up to you to decide, though. 3: In the driver's kick panel you can find your positive lights (green), brake (GREEN / WHITE), and all-door trigger (RED / yellow). Much easier than going to three different locations in the car. Plus, since the driver's dash doesn't come down, getting to the brake pedal wouldn't be much fun. NOTE: There are two GREEN / WHITEs in the kick panel; test carefully for brake. 4: There won't be tach at the OBDII on that car. Making sure the car's interior is warm to prevent breakage, carefully unscrew the fake plastic "screw" at the top of the gauges. That "screw" goes into this sort of sleeve thing...pull that sleeve out. Now, just pull on the shroud around the gauges and it pops off. You can take out the gauge cluster if you want, but no need. The wires are coming out of the top left. The left-most black wire in the bunch is tach. 5: For your locks, program the Viper to 0.4 second unlock pulses. Make sure "second-step unlock" or whatever they call it is turned off. So just hook the green to the key-cylinder-lock wire in the car, and the blue to the key-cylinder-unlock. Now, your Toyota driver's-priority unlock will work smoothly and just like it did on the original keyless. 6: It's not always well-explained in the guides what they mean by "kick panel." Note that the lock wires will be found in the harness that comes in from the driver's door. Your lights and door trigger will be in the harness running along the driver's door sill, to the rear of the car.

Chris Luongo wrote: Everything looks pretty good. A few comments here to make things a little easier: 1: I respectfully, and only partially, disagree with Tedmond. You shouldn't need to connect anything other than PKALL green to keysense, because your car doesn't have a factory alarm. That being said, test the car out for an alarm anyway, because there is the possibility it has a dealer-installed Toyota accessory alarm. 2: I wouldn't hook the orange accessory wire to the blue/red in the car. It powers up the cigarette lighter, radio, power mirrors, and some other non-essentials. I'd prefer the radio remain quiet during remote start. Up to you to decide, though. 3: In the driver's kick panel you can find your positive lights (green), brake (GREEN / WHITE), and all-door trigger (RED / yellow). Much easier than going to three different locations in the car. Plus, since the driver's dash doesn't come down, getting to the brake pedal wouldn't be much fun. NOTE: There are two GREEN / WHITEs in the kick panel; test carefully for brake. 4: There won't be tach at the OBDII on that car. Making sure the car's interior is warm to prevent breakage, carefully unscrew the fake plastic "screw" at the top of the gauges. That "screw" goes into this sort of sleeve thing...pull that sleeve out. Now, just pull on the shroud around the gauges and it pops off. You can take out the gauge cluster if you want, but no need. The wires are coming out of the top left. The left-most black wire in the bunch is tach. 5: For your locks, program the Viper to 0.4 second unlock pulses. Make sure "second-step unlock" or whatever they call it is turned off. So just hook the green to the key-cylinder-lock wire in the car, and the blue to the key-cylinder-unlock. Now, your Toyota driver's-priority unlock will work smoothly and just like it did on the original keyless. 6: It's not always well-explained in the guides what they mean by "kick panel." Note that the lock wires will be found in the harness that comes in from the driver's door. Your lights and door trigger will be in the harness running along the driver's door sill, to the rear of the car.

Actually, my car does have a factory Toyota alarm...

tedmond wrote: No relay needed on H3 harness, as there are internal relays already. H2 connections mentioned are not required in yout 05 corolla, and no diodes needed as diodes are already built into the units output as well. h2/5 you need 2 diodes, diode bands towards the unit branching in a " Y " shape. One to the pkall, second to the keysense for disarm

Can you send me a link to the diode I would need? I've never used them so not 100% on what to get.

any 1 amp diode would do. your local electronic store such as radio shack would have 1N400X. X can be any numberTed

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

punk3rz wrote: tedmond wrote: No relay needed on H3 harness, as there are internal relays already. H2 connections mentioned are not required in yout 05 corolla, and no diodes needed as diodes are already built into the units output as well. h2/5 you need 2 diodes, diode bands towards the unit branching in a " Y " shape. One to the pkall, second to the keysense for disarm Can you send me a link to the diode I would need? I've never used them so not 100% on what to get.

Sorry for all the replies, but I ordered a pack of 1N4001 diodes. So it would be:         diode - PKALL         / H2/5 wire         \         diode - Key sense Correct? Would there need to be a diode on the Viper to GWR on PKALL since it's a -200mA connection as well? Thanks

Your diagram is correct. Diode silver band towards the unit. You only need 2 diodes one for each connection.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert