2006 Chrysler Crossfire, European parking lights

I just finished wiring a 2006 Chrysler Crossfire for dinghy-tow (4 wheels on the ground behind a motorhome) lighting. Mortorhomes in North America are mostly combo brake/turn, and the Crossfire has amber turn and separate red brake lights. I didn't want to wire the motor home for the Crossfire set-up, so I used relays to use the red brake lights as combo turn/brake when being towed, but everything is normal when the car is operated normally. This part was easy, other than running wires from the front bumper to the rear of the car. I was thrown a curve-ball when I discovered the Crossfire has European park lights. OK, so I used two relays to keep the two sides segregated. I was pretty much done, and the owner noticed that the license lights weren't illuminated. (These need to be illuminated during towing). I had to find that wire, and add another relay. I like the way it came out. The relay coils only energize when being towed, so the install should be rock-reliable, trouble free, and last the lifetime of the car. Is there a better way to do the tow wiring without using 3 relays to keep the park light circuits segregated?

Power to parking light output at the crossfire lightswitch? Isn't that the old early shape SLK M/Benz? Should be a grey wire 12V+ at the light switch, either relay interrupt or direct feed shoulds do it.

It is a Mercedes, but I don't know which model. Kind of a cheap-o car. Cool, but cheap. I would think there's 3 outputs from the light switch. Left, Right, and dash / license. IIRC, the colors at the lights were gry/red, gry/blk, and gry/yel.

Haven't worked on one for ages but surely only ONE grey at the light switch then goes to fuse box and splits?

One wire? No way. How do they keep the 3 circuits separate unless it is done with independent poles in the switch? I worked on Porsches and VW's in the 70's. The three circuits were present at the light switch, and had a fuse for each circuit. I didn't take the dash apart in the Crossfire. I did all my interface work at the rear of the car. So I don't know what the wiring on the switch is. Only guessing. But I'd bet all three circuits begin at the switch. To answer my own question, in the future I'd probably do the tail lights with 5 Amp diodes. Much simpler than relays. This project was for a friend in Tucson during a visit over the weekend. 500 miles from home base. I didn't take diodes with me, because I didn't think I'd need any. I also only took 3 relays. I needed 5 total; I stole 2 out of the Ghost Switch system in the car I drove to Arizona. Put some from my stash back in when I got home. He sent me an email today that he plugged it into the motorhome, and it worked. Coolness. Cheers.