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Avital 5305L install in 2006 Honda Pilot


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btrotter 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2016
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: November 14, 2016 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote btrotter
I have an Avital 5305L with idatalink ADS-ALCA bypass.
This is the first remote starter I have installed in nearly 15 years. I am amazed at all the additional wiring needed from the last time I did it. It is a fun project for sure.
I have a few questions if you dont mind.
For the remote starter, I am wanting basic functionality from it. I want to use the Avital key fob to lock\unlock doors and remote start the car. When I press lock on the key fob it locks the door and sets the alarm. Unlock does the reverse.
I don't care about all the different sensors and bells and whistles.
The Avital comes with four different connectors
1: Main Harness, 5-pin connector
2: Door Lock, 3-pin connector
3: Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
4: Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
My questions:
1: How many of the wires from the 24-pin Auxiliary connector are needed?
2: For the Main Harness it says to connect White to "(+)/(-) SELECTABLE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT (FUSED)". Does that mean I can use either the 'Parking Light (+)' or 'Parking Light (-)' wire?
3: I see multiple references to wires like "2ND IGNITION/ACCESSORY OUTPUT", "2nd UNLOCK OUTPUT", "2nd STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT". Is there actually a wire in the car for "2nd xxxx" or does that mean you connect a 2nd wire from the Avital to the same wire you used earlier when it called for "IGNITION/ACCESSORY", "UNLOCK OUTPUT", etc?
Thank you all for your assistance.
btrotter 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2016
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: November 16, 2016 at 2:31 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote btrotter
Car: 2006 Honda Pilot
Remote Starter: Avital 5305L
Bypass: idatalink ADS-ALCA
I spent the past two nights wiring everything up. I finally did the first test and it worked. I do have a couple things not working right that I assume are from the wrong wires being used.
1: Remote Starter key fob will not lock\unlock doors. I press the button and it shows it locks\unlocks, but nothing happens. Should I be using different wires?
I have wired the 3-pin Door Lock connector like this:
Wire 1,Blue,(-) 500mA Unlock Output --> Blue/Orange wire @ passenger fusebox lt green 20-pin plug
Wire 3,Green,(-) 500mA Lock Output --> BLACK/ Orange wire @ passenger fusebox lt green 20-pin plug
2: When ignition is running, oem key fob will no longer operate door locks.
I keep seeing comments about this but have not been able to see whether you can make the oem fobs work or if you are stuck using the aftermarket remotes.
3: I would like to disable the requirement that the parking brake be enabled before the remote starter will crank the car.
I have the 24-pin connector wire 13, Black\White (Parking brake input -) connected to the red\green wire at the parking brake. When the parking brake is engaged it puts 12v on the wire. When the brake is disengaged the volts go to 0v. If I were to connect the black\white wire to a constant 12v wire, would it bypass the parking brake and not break anything in the process?
4: For the factory alarm disarm, the guides say to connect wire 14, green\black ((-) 200mA Factory alarm disarm output) to "BLACK\RED TO BLUE (-) ON DOOR MODULE IN DRIVERS DOOR PIN #16"
My question for #4 is what exactly is it meant by "Black\Red to Blue"? Am I supposed to connect my one wire 14 to two different wires in the door module, a Black\Red wire and a Blue wire? I dont understand what exactly I am supposed to do.
Thanks all!

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