DirectStart CS423 Manual Trans

ok, I have read alot on this site and have done alot of research. So here goes... I bought the Direct Start CS423 from 12voltshop.com http://12voltshop.com/proddetail.asp?prodid=CS423&cat=12&path=1,12 the instructions were feeble, http://12voltshop.com/download.asp?prodid=CS423 but I was sure that I could get it together. I connected and tested all the connections, and all is well. However, I found some cinflicting information as to where to tap into the tach signal on my 1994 Toyota P/U. One guy said it was just below the diagnosis port under a little boot labeled "IGN -". I tried that and it did not work for me. I have no idea where else to hook it up. Either way, I have NO IDEA if I have installed this thing properly because I can't get anything to beep, flash, or otherwise look alive. this particular model has a jumper that puts it into manual mode when removed. But you have to do some safety stuff like the hood switch and the parking brake switch. I did them. They also recommended hooking the door switches with a capacitor into the hood switch, but I chose not to do that. How will the gizmo know I didn't hook up the doors? So my truck's insides are all over the place, and I have a relatively neat nest of wires waiting to be hidden once I get the ball rolling. Could someone please help me? BTW - I called every car stereo and alarm place in town and NO ONE would install the unit for me. All but one didn't even attempt manuals... This unit has many safety features (which I installed) and I really want to get it working. any help would be really appreciated.

I believe the manual says you need to use a diode to isolate the doorpin and hoodpin. The doorpin is more necessary than the hoodpin actually. If you dont hook up the door pin wire then the unit will never enter ready mode. After you park your truck and leave it in neutral, and set the e brake, you need to press start on the remote so the unit will take over running the car. Then you pull the keys out and get out of the car. Then you shut the door and shut the car off with the remote. The lights blink twice slowly and you are in ready mode. The part where you get out of the car is where you need the door pin hooked up. If you dont get out of the car, then there is no way for the starter to be safe. They make you hook up the door pin so that no one could open the door and put the car in gear, and then go lurching across a parking lot and kill someone. So the only way for the starter to know if the doorpin is hooked up is to require a pulse from it before it will enter ready mode. So you dont actually have to get out of the car to test it, just open the door. This way you can hold the clutch down if you need to test the starting feature without having bypassed the clutch yet. That clutch should be really easy to bypass though. There should be 2 wires at the switch and one is constant ground and the other just needs to be connected to the (-) when running wire from the 423, WHITE/ Green i believe. You will likely need a relay if you plan to use that wire for additional purposes. However, you should still be able to get the parking lights to flash (if hooked up) and you should be able to enter programming mode, if you installed the unit correctly. I am not sure why you are getting no response at all if you say you have tested all of your connections. make sure ground is good, Your antenna is plugged in, and since you said the rest of your connections were tested, you should not have any problems that I can think of.    You do need to learn the tach before attempting to remote start though. There should be a 2 wire check connector located on the front passenger inner fender well next to the underhood fuse box. J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Thank you so much for your help. I understand now that the unit is actually looking for a pulse from the switch. The instructions say to split the hood pin wire and hook it to both doors. I am planning on just using the hoodpin wire on the driver's side door. I bypassed the clutch by just connecting the two wires of the clutch "button" to make the clutch "depressed" all the time. I will look for that tach wire under the passenger panel. I saw another diagram where I was going to try to splice into either a brown or white wire at the coil. Either way, I am bummed that I can't get the unit to even look like its alive! Well, I burned my whole Sunday on it, and now it's too dark and too cold. Thanks for the help. I will post again with my results.

OK, I am about ready to throw myself off a cliff! I HAD the tach wire from the remote starter connected ot the small port right under the DIAGNOSIS plug in the engine. It had its own rubber boot and was labeled "IG-". nothing. I removed the hood pin, and brought it inside the ca, grounded it, for testing. nothing. I followed the wiring diagram for my 94 Toyota P/U (22RE Engine) from this site, and matched them up to the diagram sent with the direct start. this is not rocket science, but what am I missing here? Could someone please send a picture of the "test port" that everyone is referring to? I am pretty sure that the tach signal issue is what's killing me. Once I know the unit is ALIVE, I will then go and hook up the door safety for real and then be off. I won't be doing the hood pin setup. Either way, if you don't go into "remote start" mode properly, it won't work. So I will just make sure to disarm the thing when I go for work on it (but I usually do it all myself). To recap my connections, I used a tester, and will list the results, what they require, then my light on/off/ground: hood pin(-) ground tach (-) ??? Brake (+) on (when I press the brake) Park light (+) on (when I turn on park lights) That was the minimum they required for operation. Next set... +12VDC (+) on ignition (+) on (when starting the car) ground (-) ground starter (+) on (when starting) accessory (+) on (when ACC and beyond) +12VDC (+) on That's it. What's happening? I really need a picture of the places I can get at tach on a 94 p/u with a 22RE engine. I have it all ripped apart, so no problems with a little more diggin!! :)

Now when you say Alive, do you mean that even when you press the lock or unlock button, nothing happens? The unit should click 2 times when you plug it in. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in. Check your fuses on the 2 red wires. Now the hoodpin should only see ground when the hood is open. But the parking lights should flash when press unlock, if the receiver is plugged in. Maybe the unit was DOA. I doubt it, but anything is possible. Are there any injector wires accessible? You can use a unique colored wire at one of the injectors for tach. Look at 2 injectors, and there should be a common wire at both. grab either one of the unique colored wires. I find it wierd that nothing happens at all. Are you testing the tach wires before hooking them up? They should read between 1 and 6 volts AC. Yes, AC! Use a DMM to test it. One wire to ground, and the other to target wire. Set the meter to AC not DC. It shoul increase when the gas is pressed. Please provide as much detail as possible. It sounds like nothing is happening at all, but that seems hard to believe since all your connections seem right. J Rilla

Owner/Installer

I have heard the double click in the unit when I plugged it in before and the two fuses are good, but any combination of buttons does nothing. Does the TACH have to be connected for the flashing to occur? Still waiting for a picture of that tach wire if someone has one... All is still connected, and testing fine, but I have seen no signs of life from any blinking or flashing. Even the LED is sleepy. What's the deal? Did I get ripped off? Can i try something else?

Wow, that is ALOT of great info there. However, I was under the impression from the install instructions that there was a MINIMUM number of wires for setup. For instance, The hoodpin/door I just plan on using the door. No second ignition either. All the rest is set up just as you said. I am still skeptical as to how the unit will "know" whether or not I have the hoodpin AND door switches cut together. I am actually not very experienced with auto electrical systems, but I usually figure all things out after some checking. Since this is an automobile, I have been pretty step by step with this installation, and can't seem to understand why this is not working. Not to mention I have gotten some conflicting information. Is the diagnosis connector you are talking about located under the hood in the engine compartment? I assume the cover that says "DIAGNOSIS" ?? ;) There are a bunch of connections in there, and I am not sure which one is THE one. I also tried the little IGN (-) plug next to the DIAGNOSIS port, and got nothing. I listed what I have connected and the result a couple posts earlier. That was listed in the manual as minimum istallation. btw - the place I bought this sent me the wrong antenna and still has not replied as to how they plan on making things right.

It will be very difficult for you to test if the unit is working without an antenna. have you tried unplugging the unit and plugging it back in? If you do so, the unit should click twice.   There is really not much hope for you until you get the right antenna. it would have been a good idea to mention this earlier when I asked you if you had the antenna plugged in. You cannot program the tach without the antenna, so wait until you get it and post back with any new updates. J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Sorry, but I didn't mean to mislead you. when I did the testing I had the antenna plugged in. It's just a monopole antenna. The picture of the item on the website showed a dipole antenna. All the testing I have been doing has been with the antenna in there. I wish the issue was that simple... I am hoping it is waiting for the tach connection to WAKE UP. Like I said, I heard the two clicks, but no cigar... I will have more time to work on it tommorow, and will pass along any information. thanks again for your help. you've been very helpful to me. I wish you were local, I would have just had you install it!!