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Problems, RSX 50.5


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ziphran 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2006
Posted: November 24, 2006 at 11:14 PM / IP Logged  
Well I am installing a Clifford RSX 50.5 Remote Start systems into my Honda Civic (99.)
Once I assumed it was all connected, I hooked up power and cycled thru the lock button on the remote to see if I could get the units to link up. They did so, the siren made its noise, and the doors locked. That was it, now nothing happens, the remote says the signal isn't being returned. I am not sure what I did wrong but here is a list of each harness and what I connected the wires to.
H1/1 RED / white - no hookup
H1/2 Red - Battery (DC check good at 12V)
H1/3 Brown - to + Siren
H1/4 No wire (blank)
H1/5 Black - ground
H1/6 Violet - not connected (for + door trigger)
H1/7 Blue - I am unsure what to connect to. Says "multiplex input, zone 4"
H1/8 Green - Door trigger
H1/9 BLACK/ white - 200 mA domelight (not connected)
H1/10 WHITE/ Blue - I am unsure what to connect to. Says "remote start (-) activation"
H1/11 White - to +parking light wire
H1/12 Orange - I am unsure what to connect to "ground-when-armed output"
H2 (2nd harness)
H2/1 Light Blue - not connected "2nd unlock output"
H2/2 WHITE/ black - not connected "200mA - programmable channle 5 output
H2/3 Violet/Black - not connected "200 mA programmable channel 4 output
H2/4 GREEN / WHITE - not connected "factory alarm rearm"
H2/5 Gray/black - not connected "diesel"
H2/6 Light GREEN/ black - not connected "factory disarm"
Relay Satellite wires
Purple - to starter
Green - not connected "for starter input. anti grind"
Red (2) - both connected to constant 12V DC and Checked good with meter
Orange - to accessory
Pink - to ignition
Pink/white - to 2nd ignition
RED / white - Unsure , but connected to constant 12v DC.. Says "12V inpute"
Now, oddly enough here there is nothing in the install guide about the 4pin harness that has a
Blue, Orange, Brown, and Pink wire. Currently not connected.
H3 remote start 2ndary harness
H3/1 BLACK/ white - connected to neutral safety switch which is connected to ground
H3/2 Violet/white - connected to tach wire
H3/3 Brown -connected to brake switch
H3/4 Gray - connected to hoodpin switch
H3/5 Blue/white - not connected. I am unsure what to connect to says " (-) status output"
H4 Horn wire
H4/1 ORANGE / black - not connected. says "200mA programmable (-) channel 6 output"
H4/2 Brown - connect to horn
Door lock harness
Light Blue - door unlock
Green - door lock
shock sensor.... In the manual it calls for green, blue, back, and red wires. These wires are alreay pre-done to a connecter, however, on the module end the blue wire is loose and needs to be plugged in somewhere. On the actual shock sensor the blue wire is looped back to the orange, yes orange, there is no green wire on it as the manual says.
I tried pressing unlock again after cycling power to the vehicle and remote, with no progress.
Please, any help would be appreciated as I have 2 more days to get this done before I need the vehicle for work again.
Thanks in advance,
Zip
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 25, 2006 at 12:42 AM / IP Logged  

ok..mutilplex zone for is for an addtional sensor..not needed          remote start negative activation is if you want an optional switch to remote start..it does this when it sees a negative..not needed    ground when armed output can be used for an additional n/c kill or for something like an LED scanner..not needed  you don't need anything on H2 so that is good   the negative status output is used for things like factory immobilizer bypass but I don't think this problem is related..yet..we will get to that if need be..we first need to get the system to respond     Don't worry about that extra 4pin harness..it is not needed in this case      channel 6 is just an additional output for an option..not needed

The only other wire which is the green for antigrind is also for your starter kill. You don't have to use it but you do not have the added antitheft. If you wish to use it cut the starter crank wire and connect the green to the key side, violet to the motor side. (this is off the relay satellite harness.

Ok..everything looks good..So you need to check the basics with a DMM.....Power, ground and all your shutdowns  (hood switch...brake switch..and neutral safety.  Before you even do that check that the antenna is plugged in tightly on both ends..On the newer DEI's this will cause the exact symptons you have. If that looks good and everything else checks out you may have a defective antenna or antenna cable...seen it happen so worth a checkout.

Now if you get response and the vehicle does not start we have to look into a bypass. Keep me posted.

ziphran 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 23, 2006
Posted: November 25, 2006 at 1:39 AM / IP Logged  
Ok master,
I PM'd you but not sure if i did it correctly.
So far, i did the following:
Ohms check is good on the antenna cable.
Power is going to the module and the remote start, but oddly enough no sound nor action inside. Even odder, the shock sensor that is ribbon cabled to the control module has a LED on it, and that is illuminated. So i know that power is parsing thru the module.
Is there a way i can contact you, so you could walk me thru anything? if so please PM me, if not ill just keep checking back as much as possible.
I am going to check the ignition wires, etc in a few minutes, just waiting to warm it as its -11 outside at the moment.
Thanks again,
Zip
master5 
Silver - Posts: 1,123
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 10, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: November 25, 2006 at 2:02 AM / IP Logged  

check the remote programming and make sure there is not 12v on the ingnition with the key off.


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