the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

96 nissan altima isolation relay


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
featherking 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2009
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: January 28, 2009 at 12:14 PM / IP Logged  
Ive seen some places online saying i need to isolate the accessory wire in my 96 altima.
Most diagrams look like this: Link
However, when i wired this according to the diagram, i had about +2.5 v on my accessory wire even with no key in the ignition with the white wire(86) connected to the ignition. If i read that wire before connecting the relay to the ignition, it reads +12v which i assume is coming from (85). If i test the ignition wire without the relay connected, that wire reads 0v until the key is 'on' or 'acc'. The +12v constant wires i used were at the ignition switch (87+85) and i cut the accessory wire (R to Bk/P) and wired according to the diagram (key side at 87a, blower side at 30).
Looking at the diagram i would think the accessory wire is disabled unless the ignition is activated, but because i have this +2.5v from somewhere the relay is always energized (which is draining my battery because the blower always has power and is running).
Most things i have read say that without the relay the starter should grind or the remote start will not work. I, however, tried wiring it without the relay and everything seems to function normally. No grinding and its starting fine, even in cold weather. The blower does not have power constantly and it doesnt have power while the car cranks. Once the car is started, the radio and blower both work fine. I then used the same relay for the parking lights and its working fine there so i dont think its an issue with the relay.
Not sure if this particular remote start (Alert 650r) doesnt require a relay for the Acc wire, or if i am just doing something incorrect. If someone with a little more relay experience could show me what i did or didnt wrong. Its working with no relay for now but i dont want to kill my starter in a few months because im not isolating that accessory wire, thanks
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: January 28, 2009 at 12:39 PM / IP Logged  

featherking wrote:

However, when i wired this according to the diagram, i had about +2.5 v on my accessory wire even with no key in the ignition with the white wire(86) connected to the ignition. If i read that wire before connecting the relay to the ignition, it reads +12v which i assume is coming from (85). If i test the ignition wire without the relay connected, that wire reads 0v until the key is 'on' or 'acc'. The +12v constant wires i used were at the ignition switch (87+85) and i cut the accessory wire (R to Bk/P) and wired according to the diagram (key side at 87a, blower side at 30).

it sounds like your saying you connected 86 to an ignition wire?

86 is supposed to be connected to a negative output from the remote start unit only. one that only comes on when the unit is remote started.

featherking 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2009
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: January 28, 2009 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged  
Ah,
So in this Alert 650r there is a wire:
"H8/1 Blue/Black (Ignition 3 Output)
This wire provides a 200mA (-) negative ground output that becomes active 4 seconds before the remote start unit initializes, and remains grounded while running."
So if i connect this wire to (86), it would energize 86 and 85 only 4 seconds before the remote start initializes (which gives accessory power) and stays grounded while running (keeping power to the blower)
I also have an accessory wire for the radio, would i need to isolate this wire with its own relay or is it possible to use the same relay as the blower? on that note, is there any way to tell when you would need to isolate a wire? via DMM or other means?
ckeeler 
Gold - Posts: 1,461
Gold spacespace
Joined: June 20, 2008
Location: New Mexico, United States
Posted: January 28, 2009 at 2:39 PM / IP Logged  
yes that H8/1 is the wire you need. and you dont have to do anything with the wire at the radio, only the one in the ignition harness.
featherking 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 28, 2009
Location: Utah, United States
Posted: January 28, 2009 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged  
Excellent, thanks so much for your help

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, April 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer