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Car Horn Relay


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nissanversaguy 
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 9:26 AM / IP Logged  
Hi guys, i am in the process of upgrading my horn, and I have hit a wall with trying to figure this out.
I have a 2009 nissan versa sedan 1.8S, the factory horn is a single tone "meep-meep" type that is a safety hazard. I bought myself a pair of PIAA sports horns. The new horns require a 15A fuse, while my car has a 10A fuse from the factory. I know that I need to add a relay. What type of relay do I need, a SPDT or a SPST? Can someone help me plan out the wiring specifics for this? Thanks for all the help!
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged  

SPDT

You are simply going to use the factory horn trigger (honk wire if you will) to triger your new relay that

will make your new horns honk. Look in the relay section of this site for some ideas. Most horns are neg. trigger.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 12:37 PM / IP Logged  
This vehicle should already have a horn relay, look at the underhood (engine bay) fuse box (es, used to have a couple of Maxis and they had separate relay boxes). It will be marked either horn or with a trumpet icon. Just up the fuse to 15amps and use the existing wiring. I've added air horns, 20amps to the Masximas and my current Galant doing exactly rthe same thing, the relay is rated for at least 20amps.
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged  
Yup! just as howard said! The relay will handle the additional draw, just up the amperage of the original fuse!
oldspark 
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged  
And for what its worth, I agree.
FYI:
In general, increasing the size of a fuse is not recommended.
This is because fusing is usually there to protect the downstream load - in this case the wiring (as opposed to fuses in equipment).
And wiring size is usually matched to the fuse, or rather - the fuse should be the max Amperage capacity of the cable (though often with a 70% or similar safety margin).
But sometimes smaller fuses may be used. EG - in this case, maybe the circuit's cable/wire handles 20A and the existing relay 15A, but the original horn is only 5-8 Amp. Would it not be safer with 10A fuse? (EG - horns are often like speakers - a coil of wire. But being subject to weather, heat, solvents & vibration their winding could begin to short, therefore lowering resistance therefore increasing current, hence heat - then fire. So let's limit its current to 10A instead of the circuit's capability of 15A (or 30A - whatever it may be).
But what if your wiring etc is only rated for 10A and you will run more through it?
Since it's a horn and thus has intermittent use, overheating is very unlikely to happen. (Unless perhaps you are a Cab driver, or on the road near me.)
Yet again - remember the heat test. Bad or undersized connections & cables will get warm to hot.
Fuses often run warm and can be hot enough to burn fingers etc. That's cool - bad pun - I mean - that's acceptable. They operate by melting. (But a constantly hot fuse should be investigated.)
And FYI#2, although I see many horn circuits with SPDT relays, many get by with SPST - they only need to be connected or not (whether the relay earths/grounds a "hot" horn, or supplies the "hot" +12V to a grounded horn).    
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged  
Exactly, in fact I just had another look at my car,I left one original horn in,pulled the second horn's wiring back and fed it to my air horn compressor, kept the SAME fuse size, no problems, no extra relay yet I live in greater London, I'm very impatient, especially with school mums in SUVs and oldies in Civics (keep quiet I'm only 63), no problems, no fuse blows.
nissanversaguy 
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Joined: September 25, 2009
Posted: November 17, 2009 at 7:47 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the help guys (Howie you are the man!) Everywhere I read, most peoples opinion is that I should use a seperate relay and avoid increasing fuse sizes just like that. I havent done any car electrical work, so I would rather be safe than sorry. Can you guys tell me how to correctly wire a horn relay using a 15A fuse? Thanks
t&t tech 
Platinum - Posts: 2,608
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Posted: November 17, 2009 at 7:58 PM / IP Logged  

Using a single pole double throw relay wire like this

Pin 85 to the original negative trigger wire from car

pin 86 and 87 to fused twelve at fifteen amps

pin 30 to the positive lead of your horn!

If you would like to maintain the original horn and be able to switch between the two, simply place a two way switch inline with the horn wire of the car, cut the wire and the side from the steering goes to the common pin on the switch, the other side of the cut horn wire goes to one of the two remaining terminals and the other remaining terminal gets connected to the pin 85 of the relay you added!

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: November 18, 2009 at 2:37 AM / IP Logged  
Just as a PS if your replacement horns are electro-mechanical i.e.normal speaker type instead of air horns, you don't even need a relay!

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