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Trying to learn about relays


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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 21, 2011 at 7:55 PM / IP Logged  

Hi, I’m new to the site. I need help trying to learn about relays. I have real bad dyslexia all my life and very hard to learn something. Even writing this I will leave out few words and spelling, spell checker has melt down trying to figure what I’m trying to spell, that just a small part of my dyslexia.

So here it goes. On this site I have readied the stuff about relays and on how to test them using the numbers on the bottom of the relay, like 30 with 87. My car relays have no numbers on the bottoms.

I have a 2003 Pontica Vibe 1.8 all wheel drive, 175.000 miles on it. The a/c was acting up, when the car was cold the a/c would work, but the car got hot from driving and shut off the car and start it up after 15 minutes the a/c would not work. You hear the rpms go up and fan comes when you push the a/c button on, but no clutch spinning, I check the allen nut on the clutch face and it is tight. This went on for a week. Now when you press the a/c button nothings works. No higher rpms, fan doesn’t turn on, and no clutch spinning, when the car is cold.

What I have readied on this site that relays can get hot and cause problems, and I’m pretty sure it a relay problem.

The fan does come on for water temperature. I have a test meter, with cheat sheets.

Relays.

FAN No.1, Toyota Denso, 90084-98031 TN 156700-1027 12v on the back 8.D-20 4 prong

FAN No. 2, Toyota Denso, 90084-98032 TN 156700- 1062 12v on the back 9.D-5 5 prong

M/G CLT, Toyota Denso, 90987-02022 15600-2470 12v 4 prong

None of these have numbers by the prongs.

How can I test the relays.

How can I check for power to a/c clutch.

How can I hot wire with the relays out to see if the clutch come on and if the fan come on and rpms go up.

I need the a/c to work, I have a bad heart and it hot and humid, I have no money to have it check out and fix. Any help will be great.

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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 22, 2011 at 4:02 AM / IP Logged  
Run a DMM set to ohms to any pair of terminals.
The pair that differ by about 100 to 500 ohms are your coil terminals.
You can run 12 volts across these and then with 4 terminal relays, the third and fourth are joined/switched/commoned. With 5 terminals two out of the three others will be commoned, when 12 volts is applied across the coils that common join switches over.
Cooling fans should come on as soon as AC is switched on irrespective of ambient temperature.
AC compressor, test for 12 volt at the lead or apply 12 volts to that lead to see or hear if the clutch switches in. Have you tested battery, alternator and cooling system? First things I would look at. It's a bloody Toyota, I wouldn't suspect the electrics at all. Has there been any crash damage to the front, also have you checked the fuses properly?
notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 22, 2011 at 8:57 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for your help. The battery test was good, only 6 months old. Alternator check fine. When this first started with a/c, I took it to garage and the freon was tested fine and no leaks. But the car was hot and they said there was no power to the clutch and wanted $550 to fix it. Can’t afford it but the next day when the car was cold the ac work find, and that went on for over a week. When the car was hot only the fan would turn on and rpms went up and no clutch, but I lost that now even when the car is cold now. The fan will come on when the water temperature get hot.

I check all the fuses twice and replace them anyway, and there was no crash damage to the car ever.

Thanks for your help, will try your suggests.

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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 22, 2011 at 9:03 AM / IP Logged  
Try the other tests I mentioned but I'm thinking faulty compressor.
awdeclipse 
Copper - Posts: 285
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 05, 2007
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: June 22, 2011 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  
So now when you turn the AC on from the control head you don't get the A/C or HighSpeed fan or engine RPM increase regardless of engine temperature?
The compressor won't engage if you are low on refrigerant, but you mentioned that has been checked.
Do you have an electronic heater control or is it a manual style control? (Knobs and dials or digital) Wonder if the AC request isn't making it out of the control head.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 22, 2011 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
Yes, my second thought was refrigerant R132 not what the poster said, try running the wire from the compressor to your battery pos, we can then know if it's actually the compressor, you will hear the clutch clicking in.
notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 12:08 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the help. My wife is very sick and I haven’t had a chance to try your suggests yet, I will try tomorrow.

So now when you turn the AC on from the control head you don't get the A/C or HighSpeed fan or engine RPM increase regardless of engine temperature? That’s correct.

I have manul control knob and turn to the coldness setting.

Thank-you very much for your help. I will let you know what happens.

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notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 24, 2011 at 10:33 PM / IP Logged  

There was only one black & white wire running to top of the compressor to a connecter that I can’t reach. Is this power or ground. Is there away to jump the compressor in the junction box.

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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 25, 2011 at 10:56 AM / IP Logged  
It will be power, every compressor I've ever seen was grounded through it's casing via the bolts to its mounting on the engine block, thus that's a power lead not a ground, Using a Stanley knife, bare some of the cable.
notyet 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2011
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: June 27, 2011 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks,  I will check it out and test it.
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