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is it safe additional accessory diagram


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tetracleric 
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Posted: April 24, 2007 at 2:34 AM / IP Logged  
Ok heres the setup.
I've built a carpc system for my Chrysler 300M. I also built a simple relay box for the accessories/items that require remote turn on.
My question is this. I'd like to modify my setup to include a toggle switch, the switch would force the relay to stay on regardless of the car being on.
heres a diagram
is it safe additional accessory diagram -- posted image.
Is it safe to add a switch from the 12v constant Source to relay point 86? My main concern is what would happen if I forgot to turn the switch off but turned the car on. Since they're technically both 12v+ connections it shouldnt really matter. But im wondering if I should put a diode inline somewhere. Or If I should go with a more complicated dual relay setup for this.
My Second question would be should I fuse any other lines. Like the main ignition line(which is technically already fused in the car and nothing else is connected to it as the factory system is gone)
In reality the barrier strip is actually a fused barrier strip, and all the accessories have STSP toggle switches to allow them to be turned on or off manually.
KPierson 
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Posted: April 24, 2007 at 11:02 AM / IP Logged  

You should diode isolate the ignition feed.  If the car is off and you turn the switch on you will turn the ignition on.  Depending on what type of 'igniton' feed you have that could be several different things.  However, since we're just talking about a single relay here put a 1A diode inline with the igniton wire going to the coil.

As far as fusing the ignition wire it depends.  If you short out that ignition wire and it pops the OEM fuse will the car still be operable?  Where is the fuse that would pop and how easy is it to replace it?  In my car, a lot of my fuses are behind my battery and a real pain to get to, so I will add extra fuses just in case (so I don't have to pull my battery to change a fuse).  If the OEM fuse blows and it leaves the car undrivable then I would install a second, smaller fuse inline.  Here you could get away with a 3A automotive fuse or even a 1A glass fuse.

Kevin Pierson
tetracleric 
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Posted: April 24, 2007 at 10:01 PM / IP Logged  
KPierson wrote:

You should diode isolate the ignition feed.  If the car is off and you turn the switch on you will turn the ignition on.  Depending on what type of 'igniton' feed you have that could be several different things.  However, since we're just talking about a single relay here put a 1A diode inline with the igniton wire going to the coil.

As far as fusing the ignition wire it depends.  If you short out that ignition wire and it pops the OEM fuse will the car still be operable?  Where is the fuse that would pop and how easy is it to replace it?  In my car, a lot of my fuses are behind my battery and a real pain to get to, so I will add extra fuses just in case (so I don't have to pull my battery to change a fuse).  If the OEM fuse blows and it leaves the car undrivable then I would install a second, smaller fuse inline.  Here you could get away with a 3A automotive fuse or even a 1A glass fuse.

Any reason not to use a larger than 1a diode?(I have larger diodes on hand)
If the fuse pops the wire is still operation, this fuse is in the cabin by the driver side door, you remove a panel to see a small fuse panel, nothing else ties into this fuse (I have the electronics schematics of my car along with the FSM) The car is fine if you blow it, this wire is just there to turn on the factory radio and factory amps. It's a 10A mini Atc.
KPierson 
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Posted: April 25, 2007 at 3:47 AM / IP Logged  

A bigger one will be fine.  The relay will only draw about 250mA, so that is all you need, but bigger is better in this case.

Sounds like the current system is fused well enough.

Kevin Pierson
tetracleric 
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Posted: April 26, 2007 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged  
is it safe additional accessory diagram -- posted image.
new pictures(the 30k filesize limit here is terrible so low compression quality)
Anyways, I've decided to go with a dual relay setup for several reasons
-I need to be able to have both a system killswitch and a swith that allows me to force the system to stay on even if ignition is off.
-I have like 90 relays in my toolchest just waiting for usage :)
Look it over and see if everythings ok. My main concern now is if the diodes are in the right orientation/placement.
tetracleric 
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Posted: April 26, 2007 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  
both setups do the same thing, the second one just seem to be safer and proper to me.
It's more complicated but its also nice practice for when I begin installing an alarm in my car.
the12volt 
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Posted: April 26, 2007 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  

tetracleric wrote:
new pictures(the 30k filesize limit here is terrible so low compression quality)
For images like this, you would do better saving it as a gif file rather than a jpg. It would look better and probably be even smaller.

is it safe additional accessory diagram -- posted image. the12volt • Support the12volt.com
tetracleric 
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Posted: April 26, 2007 at 11:12 PM / IP Logged  
the12volt wrote:

tetracleric wrote:
new pictures(the 30k filesize limit here is terrible so low compression quality)
For images like this, you would do better saving it as a gif file rather than a jpg. It would look better and probably be even smaller.

tried it, didnt want to compress properly. Somethings up with my copy of ifranview, need to reinstall it because all gifs come out around 300kb regardless of compression settings.
Could do it in photoshop or another program but i'm lazy.
KPierson 
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Posted: April 27, 2007 at 5:45 AM / IP Logged  

First off, I don't see a need for the second relay.  You could do the same thing by wiring the kill switch in between pin 87 and pin 86 of the first relay.

Second, you put the diode in the wrong place.  The diode needs to be in series with the ignition feed, not across the coil.

Kevin Pierson
dualsport 
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Posted: April 27, 2007 at 7:51 AM / IP Logged  
is it safe additional accessory diagram -- posted image.
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