dc to ac converter fault

1998 Ford Windstar Cargo Van (stripped - no back seats) Hello all It began intermittently but, as of this morning and much to my consternation, the problem is now "solid". When I plug a DC to AC converter into my cigarette lighter the converter throws a fault and doesn't operate. I thought my converter had gone bad so I purchased a new one today (400W Black & Decker) and the results were the same. Oddly, I can plug in my "strip" (for multiple cigarette lighter chargers) and it works (apparently) fine. It kept my GPS charged all day today. I'm heavily reliant on having A/C current in the cabin as I must have my laptop w/ me and fired up @ all times for my work - the computer's battery power won't cut it. I am a tech of many moons. Though I'm not an electrician, I've wielded my share of soldering irons, wire strippers, crimpers, DVM's and the like so, I'm not shy about tearing into this to get it fixed. I need it to be a quick fix if possible, though. I don't have a day to spare tearing the console apart and tracing wiring if I can avoid it. Obviously the issue isn't a fuse as has been posed to me - rather, I suspect (if it isn't just a bad cigarette lighter) the issue is chassis ground and that perhaps the "strip" (and my GPS) doesn't care but the converters will not operate w/ out it. Could it be just a matter of swapping out the (original equipment) cigarette lighter - or do you think I'm going to have to hunt down an open ground? I'm not adverse to pulling the cigarette lighter out all together and crimping on a couple of terminals to the wires in order to get power to my new converter (which includes a set of leads w/ clips (like those of a battery cable) that can clip on to the terminals). It would be a more reliable connection - not one given to wear. I could just forgo the clips all together and crimp the wires for the lighter directly to those of the converter - even better. The wires/leads are detachable at the converter so quick uninstalls wouldn't be an issue. Y'all are welcome to weigh in on this. I'd be most grateful. I'm desperate as I need to get this fixed a.s.a.p. but can't afford to lay out a wad of $ to pay a mechanic or - worse - a dealership to fix it. Thank you all in advance, Lady Tech Ptero

Thank you for responding so quickly. The direct wiring w/ in-line fuse is a good idea. I haven't run wiring in the van before. So, do you think the cigarette lighter is shot for misuse? w/ respect to direct wiring; This means drilling through the fire wall? Or do you think I can slip it in along w/ an existing harness? Am I looking at needing to have the van up on a lift to do this? For now, I'm needing the quickest fix to hold me 'till I can take on a "project". I've been using my original converter in the van for more than a year now w/ no problems. Only recently did I start to see issues developing w/ faults. Ptero

There should be a way to get through the firewall without drilling.  You will not need a lift to do this.  Open the hood and look for an existing rubber grommet around the main harness or the hood release cable.  Do not run through with the trottle or clutch linkage or cabe.  if you find the main harness has a large rubber grommet with room for the new wire, simply pierce the grommet with a phillips screwdriver or some other not really sharp object, while being very careful not to cut any wires in the harness.  Run the wire through the new hole.  Go inside the vehicle and look for the wire.Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

Thank you again, iaai. I read thru the manual that came w/ the new converter. I will run two wires of appropriate guage - one off of ea. batt' terminal - into the cabin and, per mfgr recommendation, install an in-line fuse near the batt'. I'll replace the cigarette lighter w/ a new "auxiliary equipment" plug as the former is likely shot. This will be an improvement as it will give me the use of the ae plug for the lower current devices (GPS, phone charger, etc) while still being able to keep my laptop fired up on a/c off of the converter. I hope to be able to knock this out on Sunday. Will let you know how it goes. Thanx again, Lady Tech Ptero

You mentioned the fuse - so, no worry, you're not slipping..... The mfgr's instructions called for running a wire to both batt' terminals. I see your pt., though, w/ the shorter run to chassis ground. Not to mention it'll be a hec' of a lot less trouble. I have a laptop stand between the bucket seats. I secured it to the floor w/ self-tapping sheet metal screws. That might be a good spot for the converter's ground termination. Maybe not, I'll see once I'm in there. I'll make sure there's good continuity to the chassis from the converter ground-side. Thanx again Lady Tech Ptero

You're fogiven - REALLY.  :o)  

I meant to ask; why is the fuse to be located near or at the battery and not in the cabin or on the cabin-side of the fire wall say...?

Lady Tech

Ptero