2002 silverado, alarm/remote start

I've always used a pldata or a gmbp on 98-02 trucks. Didn't have to deal with any pragramming or firmware issues. And as for thw wiring schematics for an 02, they are the same as 00, and 01, so any of those chevy or gmc diagrams should work for you. Aside from the doorlocks, doortriggers and the remote start bypass, everything should be pretty much the same as an 05. Just be sure to disarm the factory alarm upon remote starting and disarming the alarm. I beleive its a green wire in the drivers door harness/ kick panel. to rearm the factory alarm, you need to send a negative pulse to both the drivers doorpin and the lock wire at the same time. Just ude two diodes to split the lock output(before the DLP-P4) and have one doide go to the dlp4, and the other to the drivers door trigger wire. NOTE: this will also cause your domelight to turn on for about 30 seconds when you arm the alarm, which may bother some people. And if the truck wasn't equipped with a factory alarm, then you don't have to worry about all that disarming and rearming it. Easiest way to tell is if the instrument cluster blinks "SECURITY" after you shut off the engine and open a door. Press the power lock button with the door open to arm the alarm, that why you have to send a negative trigger to BOTH the lock wire and doorpin, to fool it into thinking the lock button is being pressed while the door is open.

I think I got the factory alarm disarm part, but still fuzzy on the re-arm part?

This remote start has a factory rearm output. What do I need to wire this to?

CutDog504 wrote: I've always used a pldata or a gmbp on 98-02 trucks. Didn't have to deal with any pragramming or firmware issues. And as for thw wiring schematics for an 02, they are the same as 00, and 01, so any of those chevy or gmc diagrams should work for you. Aside from the doorlocks, doortriggers and the remote start bypass, everything should be pretty much the same as an 05. Just be sure to disarm the factory alarm upon remote starting and disarming the alarm. I beleive its a green wire in the drivers door harness/ kick panel. to rearm the factory alarm, you need to send a negative pulse to both the drivers doorpin and the lock wire at the same time. Just ude two diodes to split the lock output(before the DLP-P4) and have one doide go to the dlp4, and the other to the drivers door trigger wire. NOTE: this will also cause your domelight to turn on for about 30 seconds when you arm the alarm, which may bother some people. And if the truck wasn't equipped with a factory alarm, then you don't have to worry about all that disarming and rearming it. Easiest way to tell is if the instrument cluster blinks "SECURITY" after you shut off the engine and open a door. Press the power lock button with the door open to arm the alarm, that why you have to send a negative trigger to BOTH the lock wire and doorpin, to fool it into thinking the lock button is being pressed while the door is open.

So you are saying I need to wire the factory re-arm output (through diodes) to the driver door pin wire and to the driver lock output (negative input side of the DLP-P4 door lock module)?

arhunter wrote: So you are saying I need to wire the factory re-arm output (through diodes) to the driver door pin wire and to the driver lock output (negative input side of the DLP-P4 door lock module)?

Thats exactly what you need to do. You hit the nail on the head, that will rearm the system correctly. Thats how I always do it, use a ream wire or lock wire and two diodes. Split the rearm wire with two diodes and connect to the lock(going to the DLP-P4) and door trigger wires. But make sure to connect past the diode you putin the door trigger wires(When you connect the two door triggers to the alarm, you need to isolate them with diodes) Connect the rearm wire between the BCM and where you tie in your door trigger diode or else the door trigger diode wont "see" it(because the door trigger diode will prevent backfeed). If I knew how to draw diagrams on here, I'd draw you one. PS: You said "driver's lock output", correct? I've always just wired it to the regular lock wire(that locks all doors), I KNOW it works that way.

I think I got it now, just wanted to make sure I understood what you were telling me.   It'll be a few days before I start the install, they sent the wrong bypass module. Thanks for your help.

Where can I buy an Omega DLP-P4 door lock interface?   I can't find one in stock anywhere.

You may be confusing that with the factory alarm disarm wire. The disarm wire is a light green wire in the brown plug, not sure which pin though. The drivers door only unlock is a tan wire in the drivers door or drivers side fuse panel. You need a relay to tie into this wire because it goes straight to the lock actuator. This is where you'll find the driver's door lock wire. Heres a picture of where it plugs into the fuse panel. Wire it up like this diagram below, but only use one relay, just on the tan unlock wire. It should already lock when you lock all the door, so you should't have to wire a relay into the gray (driver lock) wire. Cut the tan unlock wire, and the "side going towards the door wire it as labeled "motor" in the diagram, the side goin into the fuse panel, wire is as the "switch" side as labeled in the diagram.

I found this in the download section.   It is for a 2002 Escalade, but also says wiring is the same for C/K trucks.   This guy says the Lt. Green is for driver door unlock.   I will find out if it is or not when I do the install, just thought someone on here might know for sure. If not, I will use a relay like you have shown. Thanks. 2002 Escalade Install