keyless entry issue for 93 rx7

I'm with Chris - it looks like you can pulse the 0 (i'm guessing orange) wire from the actuator with a negative pulse and it should unlock. Also the G (Green?) from the lock with a negative pulse and it would work as well.

OK I think i see where you are going with this now, I will not have time to sufficiently go over the details and see if it will work until Saturday though. Are you suggesting removing the switch and replacing it with a controllable DPDT relay and this is where the signal from the keyless entry is coming from? If this is you suggestion I am not sure it will work, because the switch in the diagram is an integral part of the system as it is there to tell all the doors to unlock when a user manually pulls the locking mechanism in the car. Removing this “door lock switch” would sacrifice one feature in lieu of another. However I may be able to piggyback the system without issue, which you might also be suggesting? Y/N?

BTW ckeeler thanks for the help and ideas, I really would like to make this work properly, and am stuck until a solution presents itself to be able to finish the rest of my little project. Also, can you describe in your most elaborate descriptive explanation how this DPTH relay will work if the coil polarity is not toggled upon activation or a push of the momentary switch? That was the issue I could never overcome.

Sorry for the above posts they were in regards to yesterdays postings, as I had not refreshed the page to see the newer current posts.

rotarypower101 wrote:    I may be able to piggyback the system without issue, which you might also be suggesting? Y/N?

Yes thats what i mean. is it making sense now? with the diagrams and all?

I am fairly certain there is no way to simply pulse the actuator, as it is not a solenoid, but a motor that turns axially and twits a matting “finger” that locks/unlocks the latching mechanism.

chriswallace187 wrote: Is there a possibility that the diagram is just wrong as far as the switch(specifically, should it show the lock switch as normally open entirely rather than normally closed with the GREEN/ red unlock)? And that simply connecting the (-) outputs from an aftermarket keyless entry would work the locks properly?

Hey ckeeler, ya I think what you are saying will probably work, I am going to try and throw something together tonight and see if I cant make it work. Luckily I have some unused latching relays gathering dust from july 06 that just might fit the bill ;)

ha! yea you probably do huh? in any case i know it will work im certain of it. if you need i can draw up the diagram with both relays and the wires in the car to make it more clear, but you seem like you know the system in this car very well, and i think you get what im showing you (at least i hope so). the switch will still work as normal with this setup and you still be able to do the keyless entry as well. so you'll be good.

rotarypower101 wrote: I am fairly certain there is no way to simply pulse the actuator, as it is not a solenoid, but a motor that turns axially and twits a matting “finger” that locks/unlocks the latching mechanism.

I know you wouldn't pulse the motor wires, but the switched wires from the manual motion of the actuator should do the trick. Since you've already presumably got it working so that moving either actuator will operate both doors, I think if you send a ground to the respective "lock" and "unlock" switch wires, both doors will operate as you want them to. The lock timer with its capacitors and such is basically a non-issue. Its purpose is roughly the same as the constant-to-momentary relay that the12volt has shown here: The factory lock circuit on your RX-7 is more or less the same design. When the actuator is moved to the Locked or Unlocked position, it grounds the GREEN/ YELLOW or GREEN/ Red wire respectively. This in turn activates the respective relay which is integrated into the timer module (you can see the coils and the switching contacts of each relay connected by the dashed line). This is a very common method of switching used by central locking systems(those controlled by movement of the lock itself rather than a separate switch). Since the grounded GREEN/ YELLOW or GREEN/ Red is connected directly to the relay coil the path of least resistance would be the coil itself, which would send power to the actuator constantly. This is the reason for the capacitors - once they charge(after 0.5-1.0 seconds) the relay cuts out and the actuator stops trying to move any further. Try applying ground yourself to the GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ Red, and I'm extremely confident it will operate the doorlocks as you want it to without the need for extra relays.

chriswallace187 wrote: Is there a possibility that the diagram is just wrong as far as the switch(specifically, should it show the lock switch as normally open entirely rather than normally closed with the GREEN/ red unlock)? And that simply connecting the (-) outputs from an aftermarket keyless entry would work the locks properly?

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