avital 4103 2002 grand caravan

Helo, new to forum. I purchased (and will be installing) Avital 4103L Remote Start, plus DEI 457C Chrysler/Jeep Door Lock Interface Module. First of all, thanks for all the help I can get. I'm a DIY'er, and certainly get mixed signals about whether or not this project should be attempted without being a "pro installer". I'm guessing it can be though! Hopefully I started out purchasing the correct items so far... my vehicle does not have a factory alarm. Also as AFAIK it does not have a transponder ("i.e. "chipped") key. The key has a black (not gray) head, which apparently is what that means. Regardless, I have been told by installers that a bypass module (same as Interface Module?) is required for installation of this system. I plan to use this system for remote start, remote lock/unlock, and hopefully remote power hatch open/close. Is this ok so far? Can this system also operate the power sliding doors (in addition to the other desired functions)? Not necessary, but would be convenient since apparently the factory 6-button remote can no longer be used (while using the remote start function anyways). I have a digital multimeter and soldering skills. So - what else will I need to perform the install? Reading so far, I will need one or more? relays, and some resistors (post I saw from shortcircuit161 "Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. Power Unlock - same wire as power lock". What else to get me through this? If there's already a tutorial for my scenario, please point it out. Thanks! (more thanks to come I'm sure!)

Looks like you are doing good so far.  The Avital 4103L is a nice system.  The DEI 457C will make the

install much easier.

The Black ignition key should mean no transponder.  The easy way to be sure is get a $1.99 hardware

store copy made and see if it starts and runs the van.

The Avital has limited AUX outputs, so you may not be able to control the sliding doors.  The 457C will

take care of the door locks, trunk release and sliding doors thru Data, so no extra relays will be needed for that.  However you will need a relay for the Parking Lights and another relay for the Starter MUX control.

Here is the Parking Light info from DEI :

The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor.  There is a rest resistance on the wire,

so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. See directfax document #1082 for wiring information. Here is a link to DEI Tip1082 : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=616

Here is the MUX info from DEI :

The second starter wire is negative trigger thru a 180 ohm resistor. MUST use relay. Refer to directfax

document #1083 for wiring information.  Here is a link to DEI Tip 1083 :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=676

This van is not too difficult to do and should be a fun learning experience.

Soldering is fun!

Kreg357, thanks for the links and encouragement.  A couple questions off the bat, just to help get me warmed up.

1) How is a resistor normally added to a circuit so that it is not exposed?  Heat shrink?  I suppose some might just tape over with electrical tape?

2) When reviewing the wiring section (for 2002, there is a response from DanDan stating that it is easier to use the hazard lights vs the parking lights, because it is a "simple negative trigger", and apparently does not require the use of a relay and resistor.  Another response from Velocity Motors says that one can use the brown wire at drivers kick panel for the (+) parking light (no mention of resistors or relay).  The TechTips article you attached involves a WHITE/ brown wire, and the use of resistor and relay.  Can you comment on the 3 apparently differring versions?

I apologize if these are stupid newbie questions, but thanks for hangin in there with me!

2002 Dodge Grand Caravan ES

3.8L, Power Sliding Doors, Power Rear Hatch, Electronic 3-zone Climate Control.

All good and valid questions.  ( The only stupid question is the one that doesn't get asked

and causes a small car fire...     )

Yes, the best way to insulate the added resistor is the cover it and the associated solder joints

with a length of heat shrink tube.  Heatshrink tube is the preferred way to insulate any wire connection and I try to use it wherever possible.  On those wires/locations where heatshrink tube isnot possible, a quality electric tape, like Scotch Super 33+, is the way to go.

As you are finding out, there are many ways to make the install.  With the Parking Light circuit,

using the Hazards eliminates a relay & resistor but produces an annoying flashing light situation on the vehicle while remote started ( attracts attention ).   I have not tried Jeff's ( Velocity Motors )method but have utter confidence with his suggestions / input.  Here is another possible method from Omega ( never tried this way either ) :There Is A WHT/DK.BRN In The Rear Harness (Driver Kick) That Is A Pos 12v To The Tag Lights. Due to the ease of wire location, etc, I have always used the relay & resistor method at the Headlightswitch.  ( Resistors are very inexpensive and I use small 10 Amp SPDT relays that run 55 cents each.)

Soldering is fun!

Ok, roger that on the variations. I was about to pull the plug on some 30 amp relays. So I started looking for some 10-amp ones, and am having trouble finding them. Would appreciate if you could point some out. Thanks.2002 Dodge Grand Caravan ES

3.8L, Power Sliding Doors, Power Rear Hatch, Electronic 3-zone Climate Control.

The 10 Amp SPDT mini-relays I get in quantity ( 50 min ) and do not come with a harness.  Have to solder and heat shrink tube insulate wires on to all 5 Pins ( plus quenching diode ).  Time consuming but cost effective.   Might not be a good option for you as they get shipped from the far East.  ( EBay search "12V mini-relay 50pcs". )

Try an EBay search on "Directed 8616".  A bit more expensive but is pre-wired, with quicker delivery and in smaller quantities.  You can still use the larger standard Bosch style 30/40 Amp SPDT relays that use 5 wire plug in harnesses ( 2 packs for $8 ).

Soldering is fun!

Hello, another newbie here. I also just happen to be doing a similar installation into a 2002 Caravan. Adding it to a Entervan handicap conversion with lowered floor and right sliding door ramp. I also picked up an Avital, though it's 4103LXL, not 4103L, don't know the difference. I'm hoping to wire the right sliding door to work in place of the trunk release button. I got a 8616 for starter mux relay. I'm using an iDatalink ADS-DLSL-CH1 bypass. Keys aren't black so also picked up the idatalink ADS-RNG-C1 transponder loop but found there was one already included in the bypass kit. I haven't crawled under the dash yet. But I've documented all the connections and did all the wire-to-wire connections between the external components. I'm just not sure about how to tackle the parking lights. I like simple without more relays/resistors but don't like idea of hazards. How did you end up doing the parking lights sockit? Curious if Velocity Motors Brown wire required either?

I did my install yesterday. The WHITE/ Dark Brown 12v(+) in the drivers kick plate worked fine for parking lights without relay or resistors. I wired the trunk release output to instead control the right sliding door and that worked good too. Remote started worked on the first try. I haven't yet had the chance to thoroughly test everything. The only issue so far is that the door lock/unlock doesn't work - the parking lights flicker but the locks do nothing. There shouldn't be much to the locks because I'm interfacing thru the iDatalink. I will first try overriding the Avital default pulse rate and see if that makes a difference. Anyone have any other ideas why the locks may not work?

I thought my iDatalink controlled locks using a data path but looking at the install schematic I see an Analog Output to BCM 3rd connector Pin 21 (Violet/Green) for lock control. So pulse length could be the issue or maybe just used the wrong wire. There were a lot of purples on that connector.

Or maybe lock/unlock wire harness just popped out. Everything operational now. Except I need to figure out a work-around to programming over some of the default Avital preferences. Settings menu access is supposed to be done by switching the ignition key to on and then off. Then you have 10 seconds to select the menu. Problem is after turning ignition off the Caravan power stays active for much longer than the 10 second window. So instead of getting the documented responses I'm instead pulsing the hatch relay and getting a horn honk making me think I'm accessing the remote button modification menu instead. It is accessed in a similar way but with the ignition key left on. I'm thinking quickly opening and closing the drivers door may kill the power at the start of the 10 second window. Sorry to be rambling along talking to myself. I got a lot of valuable info reading several threads here before I started my install. Hope posting my experience may help pay it forward.