remote start, 07 tacoma

kreg357 wrote: Ahh, man.  You're killing me.      Look at my byline.   Soldering really is fun, just gotta practice a lot.     Ideally, you should solder all your connections.  Those T-Taps and Scotch-Locks are nothing but trouble down the road. More info on relay coil quenching diodes : http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm    About half way down the page. Quenching Diodes: Anytime that a relay coil is driven by a circuit that is not specifically designed to drive a relay, you should use a quenching/suppression diode connected in parallel with the relay coil. The diagram below will show the connection of the diode. Initially, you may think the diode serves no purpose because the voltage applied to the relay cannot pass through the diode. This is true when the relay is energized. The diode comes into play when the power source is removed from the relay coil. When power is applied to the relay coil, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is removed, the magnetic field collapses causing a reverse voltage to be generated (it's called inductive kickback or back EMF). The back EMF can easily reach 200 volts. The diode will absorb the reverse voltage spike. This voltage, if not absorbed by the diode, will cause premature failure of switch contacts and may cause the failure of power switching transistors. You can use virtually any type of rectifier or switching diode (i.e. 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N400x... or Radio Shack part #s 276-1101, 276-1102, 276-1103, 276-1104). Very cheap insurance for your very expensive Viper system.

Alright I took a trip to RadioShack and bought me a diode and some solder and have been slaving ever since lol. But I have another issue. I guess I thought I knew what all the wires went to on the other H1 and H2 harness. The only wires I'm not sure about on the H1 harness as far as what they need to be hooked up to are the 2 parking light wires. On the H2 harness, the easiest thing to do would probably be if you could tell me which ones I don't need, and if I have questions from there I can ask on a wire-by-wire basis. Much much appreciated! Thanks guys!

See, soldering is fun! 

Which model Viper do you have?  There are some differences with the H1 and H2 harnesses ( the wire colors and names usually stay the same ). 

For your Tacoma, I would set the Viper's internal jumper/fuse to (-) Parking Light Output and connect to this wire.

Use the Viper's White Parking Light Output wire.  The other WHITE/ Brown Parking Isolation wire is unused.Parking Lights (-)  green (-)     @ headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18

Soldering is fun!

Viper 5904. What you just said covers the H1 harness. All I have left is the H2 harness and the same bypass module.

And what was the by-pass module? I can't seem to find any mention of one so far. Without that knowledge here are your H2 connections. H2/1 N/A H2/2 Grounded if auto, parking brake switch (wire) if manual. H2/3 Keysense, to GREEN/ black (-) ignition key switch, white 2 pin plug, pin 1 H2/4 Use key sense H2/5 N/A H2/6 Door trigger input to blue as my earlier post. H2/7 N/A H2/8 If required join to GREEN/ red dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10. H2/9 to by-pass blue trigger. H2/10 N/A H2/11 N/A H2/12 N/A H2/13 N/A H2/14 N/A H2/15 N/A H2/16 To blue, dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13. H2/17 Hood pin (you install). H2/18 to the 2nd. starter relay as above 1N4004 diode! H2/19 trunk pin or load area sensor. H2/20 N/A H2/21 N/A H2/22 N/A H2/23 Tach, to BLACK/ white, data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9. H2/24 N/A

Sorry, just noticed your link to a 5904 install guide...

Does your Tacoma have the Factory Alarm?Also, not sure about the transponder bypass module.

H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT    Not Used

H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT       Chassis Ground if Auto TransH2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT    Not Used ( if Factory Alarm use for Keysense )H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT         Not Used unless you have Factory Alarm H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT        Not UsedH2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O)         More diodes!!!      See Note 5         H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT      Answered by HowardH2/8 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT         GREEN/ red (-)  dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10 H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT            Bypass Module GWR if going W2WH2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT                  Not UsedH2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT          Not Used        H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT        Not Used See (-) Door TriggerH2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT          Not Used      H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT          Not UsedH2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT       Not UsedH2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT             blue (+)  dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13 H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O)           Viper supplied hood pinH2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT            To external relay Pin 85H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)           Not UsedH2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT           Not UsedH2/21 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT Not UsedH2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT       Not UsedH2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT     BLACK/ white (a)c  OBD2 pin 9 H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT     Not Used unless you have Factory Alarm

NOTE #5; the DRIVERS DOOR is a GREEN/ YELLOW (-) in the 18-pin plug, pin 7, the

PASSENGER DOOR is a RED / BLACK (-) in a 22-pin plug, pin 8, the REAR DOORS are a PINK/BLACK (-) in an 18-pin plug pin 6, when connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM,use all (3) DOOR TRIGGER wires and DIODE ISOLATE, to connect, See DIAGRAM  : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_TACOMA_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf

Soldering is fun!

Did you write your answer at the same time K? Look at the time stamps! Note we both picked up on the transponder. N.B. since about 99 I've always gone to the dome trigger on Toyotas, never needed separate door triggers.

I'm still a slow typist.   Thank goodness for spell check.

Dome light delays scare me...  

Soldering is fun!

I don't think my truck has the factory alarm system. How would I know for sure? Either way, the bypass module I'm using is the FLCAN from flashlogic. So do I use H2/3 or H2/4 for keysense?

Why? Forget making one, the vehicle already has one. All I'm saying is connect the vehicle dome light trigger wire to the DEI green door trigger, see my first post on this thread. Yes it works that way no need for 4 extra diodes (did I really say that?). Done it that way many many times, no probs.

Either, one to the by-pass, one to the keysense, better safe than sorry. Leave a window open so you can reach in, use the factory remote, press lock twice, wait 30 seconds then reach in and open a door. No noise = no factory alarm.