2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

OK, Got a second transponder key programed to 2002 Taurus. This car was not factory fitted with remote/keyless entry. Wanting to install Viper 4104 one-way remote start coupled with PKALL bypass. My aim is to Merry Christmas my wife's car with keyless entry, trunk, Dome light on at unlock, wanting to do the push once drivers door only, second all doors unlock, car finder, and remote start. I might like to add rear window defogger as well, depending on how the rest goes. I was told by seller and read that the bypass was self configuring and ready for install(also mentioned on packaging). 1)Does it still need to be flashed with latest version FORD ware? I could do this over web if I needed to? I am not a dealer/installer business. 2)Is the 2002 Taurus higher current at the trunk release needing a relay wired in? I am seeing it is (-) but haven't inserted meter to see what Amp its pulling when opened at dash button. In fact I have done very little in the garage for this project as of yet. 3)I am understanding the door lock/unlock are low current connections at GEM module and require no relays, this correct? 4)The running lights and the dome light will require relays, true? 5)And since the car is factory equipped with security, do I need to isolate the drivers door trigger with diode or is that for adding external alarm system only? I assume this connection is made at the 24-pin harness H2/12(+)if monitoring all doors with one wire at kick panel or H2/6(-) if individual per door connections at GEM module per Viper 4104 as a safety interlock to disable remote start if door is open. I have no access to www.directechs.com, etc., as I am not a business, just a guy with a stubborn streak that goes way back...I fix things, even those things that aren't broke, and they all usually end up working better than before. What I am worried about is over current on delicate transistor circuits mainly and smoking a small box with a bunch of wire coming out of it a week before Christmas... oh, and of course not figuring out how to make the Christmas gift thing work out. I want to see her face when she unwraps a remote with a new key and asks, "To what?" and I calmly answer "Well,...push the little button dear"!! It'll be great! I thank you in advance and your help will be greatly appreciated! Patrick

Hi Patrick,

Here are some answers to your questions.

I was told by seller and read that the bypass was self configuring and ready for install(also mentioned on packaging).

1)Does it still need to be flashed with latest version FORD ware? I could do this over web if I needed to? I am not a dealer/installer business. The PKALL should have a white sticker on it with the factory loaded Software Vr. number on it.  Currently Vr. 4.06 is the

latest ( for several years ).  Older versions will probably work, too.  Here is a link to the install guide :

http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=6423&productid=196&firmwareid=1636The transponder wires colors should be :

Taurus 2002     TX  Pin 4  Gray/Red         RX  Pin 3  BROWN / Yellow

2)Is the 2002 Taurus higher current at the trunk release needing a relay wired in? I am seeing it is (-) but haven't inserted

meter to see what Amp its pulling when opened at dash button. In fact I have done very little in the garage for this project as of yet. I believe that if your Taurus did not have Factory Remote Keyless Entry, the Trunk Release will be a (+) signal on a Gray/Red

wire at the trunk release switch.  You can visually verify and use a DMM to test for this at the Trunk Release switch.   If it

does test as (+), you will need a relay to convert your (-) Trunk Release output to a (+) the car needs.

 3)I am understanding the door lock/unlock are low current connections at GEM module and require no relays, this correct?Correct, no relays needed for the Lock and Unlock wires at the GEM 26 Pin connector.

 4)The running lights and the dome light will require relays, true? For the Parking Lights, the 4104's Parking Light Jumper/Fuse should be in the (+) position and the H1/5 White wire can be

directly connected to the Brown wire at the Headlight switch ( shown in Pictorial ).  You may not need to connect the Dome

Light Supervision wire.  The test will be to see if the dome lights come on when you connect the 4104 and press the Unlock

button and unlock the doors.  Most newer cars have this feature built-in.

5)And since the car is factory equipped with security, do I need to isolate the drivers door trigger with diode or is that for

adding external alarm system only? I assume this connection is made at the 24-pin harness H2/12(+)if monitoring all doors with one wire at kick panel or H2/6(-) if individual per door connections at GEM module per Viper 4104 as a safety interlock to disable remote start if door is open. Might be some confusion here.  First, does your car have the Factory Alarm system?  The anti-theft immobilizer system

( transponder ignition keys ) is not an alarm system.  Being as your car did not come with factory RKE, I doubt it came with

the Factory Alarm.  You can test for it by :

1. Start with doors closed, engine running.

2. Turn off engine.

3. Stay seated but open drivers door, press Lock, then pull door closed.

4. Watch dash for blinking light.

5. Wait two minutes, then use drivers door inner handle to open the door.

6. Any horn beeping???

If you have the Factory Alarm, use the H2/4 Factory Alarm Disarm Output to the Pink/White wire @ the 26 Pin plug at the GEM

shown in Pictorial.

The 4104 is not an alarm system and does not need to be connected to the cars Door Trigger wires.  That is only needed for

an install in a Manual Trans vehicle to enable Reservation Mode.   The 4104 will remote start the engine if a door is open.  It

will not start the car if the Hood is open.  Remember that even if all the doors were open and 4 criminals jumped into the car

while remote started, the steering wheel and transmission shifter are still locked ( no key in the IGN position ) and as soon

as the Brake Pedal is depressed, the engine shuts down.

Hopefully you have a warm place to do the install.  Just go slow, locate, verify and test all wires with a DMM and make quality solder connections.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357, Now that is an awesome response! Thanks for the details! My confidence just increased exponentially! I hope to get the wife's car alone when she's at work next weekend and believe I have a solid vision of what I will be needing to do as to the install. I appreciate that this forum is available to me and I thank all of you! Merry Christmas! Patrick

Oops, I was hasty, as to point 5); to be sure, then I don't need to connect any "door input" wires? These door inputs are Alarm triggers? I think you explained it clearly when you mentioned "remote will start with doors open, hood has interlock. Thanks again, Patrick

Have things pretty much prepped for Viper 4104 Keyless/Remote Start using PKALL into 2002 Taurus, no OEM Keyless. I need 3 things clarified at this point; then I think I'm ready to connect and then program (I think Auto Trans needs programed and I want Rear Defogger also, see below) 1) PKALL "Blue/Wht to 12V(-) While Running"; Connect to 4104 connector H2/9 Drk Blue Status Output? 2) PKALL (+)Ignition Pink to RED / LtGrn Ignition(+) along with H3/1? 3) Viper 4104 Install Manual ©2011 pg.15 Menu Chart calls out Item 11 "Status 2". I want to use this as Rear Defogger Output from H2/3 Blue/White Opt.2-Latched, but pg.16 Item 11 Text reads; "11. Status 2 Output (Dark Blue H2/9 wire). Pg. 6 shows H2/9 as "(-)200mA STATUS OUTPUT", NOT Status 2. Is this a typo/discrepancy I'm seeing or what am I missing? Should it call out "Blue/White H2/3" instead? I see that with some strategic assigning/programing I could get what is needed done, but what is a straight forward default wiring scheme for this? For heavy connector H3 I'm going ; H3/1 to RED / LtGr Ignition H3/2 LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+ H3/3 Gry / YELLOW Accessory1 H3/4 RED / Lt Blue Starter H3/5 also LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+ H3/6 Blk/Grn Accessory2 H3/7 NA H3/8 also LtGrn/Purple Constant 12V+ Look OK? Thanks for your time and Merry Christmas! Patrick

and Merry Christmas to you, Patrick. Time is running short, so you better plug in your soldering iron soon. 1. Yes 2. Yes 3. Yes, your wiring looks good.   There should be 4 Light GREEN/ Purple +12V constant wires in the ignition harness, so connect each of the 4 Viper power wires to a different one. Don't forget to program the Viper for Flex Relay = ACC2. Menu 3, Item 8, Option 2. Good catch with the typo's in the 4104 install guide. You are correct ( that's 4 for 4 ). The H2/9 Dark Blue is only (-) Status Output. The H2/3 Blue/White wire is the one they are talking about in Menu 3, Item 11. H2/3 is default 2nd Status Output but can be programmed to a latched or a single pulse Defog actuator. Soldering is fun!

Alrighty, Thanks kreg357! And thanks for noting that the Flex Relay needs to be programed to Accessory 2. It appears to come defaulted as Ignition 2. As to the Defogger, I can program H2/3 Status 2 Output as Opt.2 a Latched Timed Rear Defogger to drive a polarity reversing relay at relay pin 85. Then pull 12V(+)lead from vehicle's Gray / YELLOW Acc. harness and 10A fuse this link to Relay pins 30/86 and put relay 87 directly to window grid at pin 18 of C270c connector of Control Junction Box. (I'm getting my vehicle wiring from alldataDIY.com. The sight charges per vehicle. Not much and well worth the minimal $ to me since the info is what is available to dealers in all aspects of auto repair, wiring included.) But it makes more sense to program H2/3 from Status 2 to opt. 3 Pulsed Defogger, connecting it to pin 6 of 20 pin connector C201b at GEM. This looks to me to allow vehicle timer to control duration of defogger by simulating dash switch actuation. I'm just not sure of polarity of momentary dash defogger switch. If (-), then this seems to be the way to go. Can you recommend a common method for defogger option?

The only info I have on the Rear Defog is from Audiovox.  They have it listed as :Black (+) @ Defrost switch  ( BROWN / Lt Blue in wagons )This info does not included any latched or pulse data, so testing would be required.  Looks like your AllData info is goingto be more accurate / complete.Soldering is fun!

Update to Rear Window Defogger on my 2002 Taurus Sedan; Dash momentary button provides (-) to GEM DrkBlue/Orange pin6 of 20pin connector C201b (1 of 3 GEM connectors). The GEM continues to offer timed (-) to Pin 86 coil of Defogger Relay located in CJB (Central Junction Box) Therefore H2/3 (-) 200mA can be programed opt.3 Pulse which should operate Defogger without adding a relay and will also light Dash Defogger LED indicator, timing out with factory timer. Cool! I will connect as stated and provide status if successful, but it looks good to me. Use your own discretion. If mine smokes, yours will, too! I am not affiliated with them but I would like to mention the alldataDIY.com annual fee is $27 1st vehicle and $17 each additional. Renewals are cheaper, I paid $10 and added a sons vehicle for an additional $10 and is good for a year. They have a 5 year subscription that is further discounted as well. They are likely running a Christmas discount for new subscriptions if you check it out. Very accurate and thorough info. and some stuff is hard to get, impossible from a Chiltons or similar. Covers all wiring, Trans, Engine, Brakes, etc. You see what the Dealerships see. Patrick

It's CHRISTMAS morning and everything went as planned, but only thanks to your help!! She almost cried, but being the strong woman she is... Thank You, she really does deserve it! As for the rear defogger, it works as I stated in my last instructions/post above, just offer (-) pulse to GEM 20 pin connector at pin 6 DKBLU/OR for 2002 Taurus. Trunk Pop isn't working, I need to check my relay wiring. Relay is unmarked Song Chuan, I need to double check the data sheet. I did solder directly to relay pins, the heat may have been too much. I'll check into to this. Thanks again,