1998 Chevrolet Blazer, Viper 4204v Remote Start

I am putting a Viper 4204v remote start on my 98 Chevy Blazer. I'm kinda confused on the 8 pin H3 (remote start harness). What is the difference between 1,2,5,6   and 3,8 Here's the wiring for my truck: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/435.html I don't get the Ignition "input/output" vs. +12v fused Ignition 1 "input". Could someone differentiate these wires for me. I'm aware of what wires are what on my truck, but this install guide is not very detailed. Thanks.

Wires in cavity 2, 5 and 8 are your high current relay power inputs. Connect them to the red and the RED / white wires in the truck's ignition harness. The pink wire in cavity 1 is your ignition output wire (connection to pink wire in ignition harness). The orange wire cavity 3 is for accessory. Connect it to the orange wire in ignition harness. The violet wire in cavity 4 is the starter output.connect to truck's starter wire in ignition harness (usually yellow). The pink/white wires in cavity 6 will be your second ignition output. Connect it to the 2nd ignition wire in the ignition harness (usually white). Verify the ignition harness wires with a meter first. The pink/black wire is not used. Tape it off.sparky

Thanks sparkie. So I have (3) high current outputs, but my truck only has (2) constant power wires. RED / white (50A) and red (40A). Any suggestions for connecting the 3 to the 2 ?

Connect the red to red and the RED / white to the RED / white and RED / black.sparky

While I have you here... Is 9 for hooking up my anti-grind relay ? 11,13,14,15 are just for other options to trigger on ? 12, ??? 18, do I need this wire ? 21, activation input ??? 22, accessory output ? ( as compared to the 4 aux outputs?) 24, don't think I use this one.

Unless your remote has a Function button on it, all the other Aux functions likely won't work. You can use the status output to trigger an anti-grind relay if you wish, as long as you aren't using it to activate a bypass module for the Passlock system in the truck. If your truck has a factory alarm, you will need to use the rearm and disarm wires (pins 24 and 4). The only wires you really need are the hood pin input #17, the brake #16 and if it is an automatic ground pin #2. Pin #5 can be used to trigger the rear glass release if there is a switch on the dash. There are negative outputs for all power modes (accessory, ignition, start and flex relay) you don't need them in your vehicle.sparky

H1 harness has a light flash isolation wire. Assuming I don't use that one. I then have the PIN 30 of light flash relay; I believe this goes to the parking lights. Why do I have two wires labeled for the parking lights, one is + and one - ? I do have a function button on the remote. I'm probably 3/4 of the way done wiring, just getting these last few wires. Thanks again for all your help.

The white wire is the parking light output. You should have a fuse inside the module to select lamp output polarity. The WHITE/ brown is used for some types of parking lamp circuits, but not yours. The aux outputs can be used to activate other circuits if desired.sparky

Got it working last night. Thanks so much for your assistance sparkie. Now I just need to get it all cleaned up and nicely secured. I also have the DEI 451m relay to hookup the door lock/unlock. Think I have that all figured out though. Thanks again.

All done. Rear defroster working and door locks + rear hatch. 1 Question, the OEM has the one push unlocks the driver door while 2 pushes unlocks all doors. I wired the lock wires to the "Power Lock" wires. So they all lock / unlock simultaneously. (see chart above). What are the door "triggers" used for ? I see the driver has a separate trigger. Do these also control the locks.