2015 Dodge Dart, Remote Start

Anyone have any experience on these? Will be installing the Avital 4103LX using the Idatalink AL-Ca bypass. Looking over the wiring diagram, and had a few questions. Looks like the heavy gauge harness wires off the remote start will go to wires from the BCM. Are those wires heavy enough? And what starter wire to use, it list two. One says starter kill only, the other says push button only. This one is a non Push button. Also with the parking lights if i use positive trigger, can the remote starts output power both parking light wires ok? Diagram says the left and right are separate. Thanks in advance. 12 VOLT CONSTANT     RED (+)     @ BCM, GRAY 2-PIN PLUG, PIN A, SEE NOTE #3      STARTER     BLUE/BROWN (-) for starter kill only     @ BCM, BLACK 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 49      STARTER 2     PURPLE/BROWN (MUX)     @ KEYLESS IGNITION NODE (PUSH BUTTON START ONLY), BLACK 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 4      IGNITION 1     PINK/WHITE (+)     @ BCM, GRAY 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 48      IGNITION 2     BROWN (+)     @ BCM, BLACK 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 3      IGNITION 3     N/A           ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1     BROWN/WHITE (-)     @ BCM, BLACK 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 4      ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2     LIGHT GREEN/DARK BLUE (-)     @ BCM, BLACK 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 10      KEYSENSE     N/A           PARKING LIGHTS ( - )     WHITE/BROWN (MUX), MUST USE RELAY TO ISOLATE AND 1130 OHM 1/2 WATT RESISTOR     @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, BLACK 6-PIN PLUG, PIN 3      PARKING LIGHTS ( + )     WHITE/YELLOW (Left) (+) & WHITE/GRAY (Right) (+)     @ BCM, BLUE 60-PIN PLUG, PINS 47 & 3      POWER LOCK     PURPLE/DARK GREEN (-) PULSE THROUGH 330 OHM 1/2 WATT RESISTOR     @ BCM, BLUE 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 27      POWER UNLOCK     SAME WIRE AS POWER LOCK, (-) PULSE THROUGH 100 OHM 1/2 WATT RESISTOR     SAME AS POWER LOCK, (NEGATIVE 1-WIRE DOOR LOCK SYSTEM), SEE NOTE #2      LOCK MOTOR WIRE     LIGHT GREEN/DARK BLUE (5-WIRE)     @ BCM, BLACK 32-PIN PLUG, PIN 32      DOOR TRIGGER     PURPLE (-)     @ BCM, BLUE 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 50      DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION     YELLOW/LIGHT BLUE (+)     @ BCM, BLUE 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 57      TRUNK RELEASE     TAN/LIGHT GREEN (-)     @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH, BLACK 4-PIN PLUG, PIN 2      SLIDING POWER DOOR     N/A           HORN     GRAY/BLACK (+)     @ BCM, BLACK 32-PIN PLUG, PIN 30      TACH     NOT REQUIRED FOR REMOTE STARTING           WAIT TO START LIGHT     N/A           BRAKE     DARK GREEN to LIGHT GREEN/GRAY     @ BRAKE SWITCH or BCM, BLACK 60-PIN PLUG, PIN 57      FACTORY ALARM DISARM     IGNITION + TRANSPONDER ACTIVATION

You might be over-thinking this install. I believe you mentioned that your Dart is a regular key ( TIP Start ) with Auto Trans. You will flash the ADS AL-CA with the DBI-AL(DL)-CH8 firmware and follow the wiring guide that matches your car, either with or without AUTO Lights. You won't be using the vehicles (+) Parking Light wires ( although the 4103 could handle it with it's 10 Amp Parking Light output and a couple of 3 AMP diodes to split and isolate ) but you will need a relay and a resistor to trigger the (-)Parking Light MUX wire. Just follow the guide. The bypass module will supply the Brake, Tach and Hood Pin ( if equipped ) signals for you. The bypass module will also handle the locks and trunk via the CAN Bus as well as the start-up sequence. If you go D2D, the only ignition wire needed is the Pink IGN1 output wire. The iDatalink diagram does not show the mandatory 4103 Chassis Ground connection or the optional Horn connection. I would also hardwire the 4103 Neutral Saftey wire to Chassis Ground. Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg, so if I’m looking at this diagram right. You don’t use any of the normal heavy gauge wires off the remote start except the one ignition for this vehicle?

Yes. Unless you went W2W between the 4103 and the ADS AL-CA. In W2W you would need a hardwire connection of the 4103 Starter Output to the ADS AL-CA, too. I would suggest cutting the 4103's thick Pink IGN wire at about 3 inches and replace it with quality 18 gauge wire for the run to the cars ignition node connector. The 12 gauge wire is not necessary and it makes soldering easier.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the help once again Kreg, and being awake so early lol. Now i gotta go find a resistor somewhere. I miss radio shack. Have a good day. Ill report back when this one is done.

Early riser.... Check EBay. Search on "12 volt mini power relay uxcell". If you don't mind soldering the wires to the relays pins you can get a 5 pack of these relays from a U.S. seller for under $10. EBay will also have the resistor you need. The DEI 654T resistor pack has 44 assorted resistors commonly used in 12 Volt vehicle applications.Soldering is fun!

Hey Kreg, on the 12 volt input. The only 12 volt inputs on the remote start unit are the heavy gauge wires. Would both of them need hooked up to the 12volt pin #6 at the ignition node?

Personally, I deviate from the iDatalink install guide on the +12V constant source for that install. Their diagram shows the +12V source as a pin on the Ignition Node connector with no fuse. I perfer to obtain power from the BCM / Dash Fuse box. Look for a thick Red wire at Plug C1, Pin A. It's rated at 70 Amps. I would combine both 4103 Red +12V input wires into one wire, fuse it at 15 Amps and reduce the wire to an 18 gauge wire for the run to the BCM / Dash Fuse Box wire. Plug C1 is a 2 pin plug and the BCM is located under the drives side dash area.Soldering is fun!

Got it, works good and I’m currently putting the car back together. You are the man sir. Don’t know how close you are to cincinnati. But if you ever get close you gotta let me buy you a beer. You have helped me twice this week. Much appreciated.

Hey Kreg, Any idea what would make the headlights non responsive to the headlight switch now after this install? They stay on all the time no matter the switch position.