trying to wire spst 30/40 5 wire relay

The first relay shown is an SPDT (changeover) relay, but it can be used as an SPST by NOT using its "Normally Closed" (relay de-energised) contact #87a. IE - terminal #87 connects to #30 for normal SPST applications. If the system is 12V (ie, motor, relay, & timer), I assume you merely want to have the timer power/energise the new relay instead of the motor, with the motor driven off the new relay? The relay is energised with +12V to #86 and gnd to #85 - connect that to timer instead of the motor. Then connect power through a fuse to #30 & from #87 to motor power (with the motor grounded etc) As I'mA said above - the relay section has ample info about relay wiring etc.

Yep - HW-Wizard - you got it! Thanks for supplying the data. (Man, I still love this site!) In this case I see no complications (except maybe false triggering as discussed below): (1) The Cebek timer handles 5A so a mere relay is pittance. [Even a "huge" 12 Ohm solenoid is only 1A, and the relay pictured (top, above) is probably 60 Ohms or more - ie, ABOVE 12 Ohms is LESS than 1A from V=IR => I=V/R = 12/R (Amps).]    (2) The Cebek timer has a relay output, so no "spike quenching" diode across the added relay's #85 & #86 is required (unless as below..). (3) Because the added relay (as pictured top, above) has no internal quenching diode, it is not polarity sensitive. PEDANTIC and at time important - normal convention is that #86 is the +ve and #85 the -ve solenoid connections. This is not important for non-quenched relays or resistive quenched relays, but it is important for diode-quenched relays. But if you are like me, you will avoid "special" quenched relays and provide your own as part of the socket or wiring. This can be done after the internal diode has stopped its smoking and has blown open (as a result of reverse-polarity connection of #85 to +V and #86 to -ve aka GND or 0V). False Triggering... The description in the pdf is a bit vague (page 2, middle): "you can happen the fluctuation or incorrect output functionment" & "... you have install the anti-spark...." .... may be suggesting that an external spike - generated from a 12V bulb and hence moreso from a 12V relay - might cause false-triggering of the Cebek timer module. If so, transient quenching of the relay solenoid is needed. I recommend a diode. This is explained somewhere in the relay section on this site, but it merely means a reverse-biased diode across solenoid terminals #85 & #86, where reverse biases means the diode's "-" or line end towards +ve, and the other (Anode) end towards 0V (aka ground or -ve). If buying diodes, I suggest buy at least 2 diodes - they are usually only about 10c to 30c each. That way, if the first diode blows because it was wired back to front (and the fuse didn't blow instead), you can wire its replacement correctly. (I call that the "suck & see" approach. Others call it a mistake.) And most "power" diodes should suffice - eg at least 200V preferably 400V (PIV = Peak Inverse Voltage) with at least 1A (If - forward current) - eg, common IN4004 (1A/400V), IN4007 (1A 1000V), IN5404 (3A, 400V) etc. Hence the diode can withstand f.ex a 400V transient up to 1A (etc) generated by the relay's inductive solenoid. I hope I have imparted some knowledge to those as yet still sane. And again, I thank the HotWaterWizard for doing the hard work!

Wow thanks!John

Hey...Whats above the relay in the visor picture...?(off-topic...sorry)M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

You were right thanks! The numbers were stamped accordingly, on the bottom.John