Curves going inward

I'm looking for different techniques to get the result I want. I need som assistance when it comes to having the subs "sunk" into the box as opposed to coming out of the box. How do you hold the fleece to the rings when using this method? I have been sandwiching the mold fabric between the speaker ring another round blank that is the same size as the ring. This holds down the fabric so that the subwoofer has a flat surface to sit on but it doesn't allow resin onto that part of the fabric. So then when I am ready to remove the blanks the fabric underneath isn't hardened and i don't get real good adhesion to the ring either. So I am looking for ways to get the mold fabric to stay on the rings but still maintain a flat surface to mount the subs on. Hope that wasn't to confusing.

Wow, long time no see. Have you tried using hot glue or staples to keep the fabric around the rings? I am nortorious for this,... but, do you have a photo?I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

I see now, hot glue that inner ring to the back pieces inside the box using some form of "stick" or long dowel to hold it in place. Stretch your fabric to the inner right, hot glue again or stape. Everything should stay still for you to glass n resin on. Dowel example .I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

Just doing a random search on google and found... Atlas Dowel Prices don't look that bad, but you can most likely save by getting them at a hardware or art store locally.I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

I know how to do the skeleton work and all that. I built the two boxes in the pictures. For the one that sinks in I want to be able to mount the speakers from the front so I need the top of the ring to be flat. If I staple it I can imagine that it may be difficult to keep it perfectly round and flat. Plus I like to have it so that the ring is the exact size of the speaker that way ther are no flat edges overhanging the edge of the speaker. Have you used hot glue before? I wouldn't think it would be strong enough to hold the mold fabric in place.

Alright, I hope this comes out right. Staple or secure the fabric (t-shirt, fleece) to the under side of the speaker ring that the sub will mount to, and mask off the other side side of the ring with tape. This will allow the other side, the visible side, to remain smooth and untarnished before resin, during the resin'n, and after. I hope that came out right as I said above, I do not want to annoy you with methods you already know.I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

Okay, I understand what you are saying now. But if you do that then you have the ring on the top and would have to fill in the area surrounding the ring with filler so that it appears you have a smooth transition, right?

Absolutely. You could use Tiger Hair (fiberglass/bodyfiller) to fill it in the walls around the ring. I am not sure how much of a "void" will be left for you to fill, but if your fleece/resin absorber is measuRED / cut and adjusted right, that might not even have to happen. I do not know what shape/size subwoofer you are putting in there, I'd say wing it, but then again it's all on your best judgement. Good luck with it, and you know I am going to want to see some install photos. Were'nt you the one who did the fiberglass entertainment center? Pretty sure it was you. You do good work, and I am sure these subs will turn out as the same. I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.