1999 honda accord starter issue

I installed a Clifford Matrix 12.5X in my 99 Accord. It doesn't have factory alarm or immobilizer. Everything worked fine for the first day until my buddy was testing out the shock sensor and I must have accidentally put it into Valet. At first I thought it was the immobilizer relay not closing, but I disconnected the harness and closed the circuit myself, still not starting. Here's everything else I've posted over at HondaAccordForum.com: "So I installed a Clifford Matrix 12.5X alarm the other day it's been working great, except today my buddy wanted to see how the shock sensor worked and set off the alarm, I disarmed it and left the car alone. I go to leave and when I turned the key nothing happened. - You can hear the starter solenoid, but no starter. - I have the immobilizer wired in, so I was thinking that the immobilizer relay went bad or something and not closing the starter circuit. So, after that I disconnected the alarm and tried to bypass the relay by just connecting the wires in the harness, technically reverting back to stock with the starter wire "intact". - Didn't help, so I thought my battery might be dead as well so I had the buddy jump that car, still nothing, but I did get the starting to turn slowly for about 1 revolution (of the starter, not flywheel). Here's the odd part, the status LED stays solid blue, and the car will lock and unlock, but it won't arm. Panic still works. Any of you Clifford/Viper/Directed alarm owners know anything about this? I know most of you had yours installed, so you probably won't know much, but I'll try anyways." and "- Fixed the alarm LED problem: It was in valet mode which explains why it would not arm/disarm when it locked/unlocked. I must have hit Unlock-Aux-Unlock when my buddy set off the alarm. - The 100A battery fuse is a-okay. - I had my moms MDX hooked up with a brand new Optima Red Top under her hood charging mine for about 10 minutes. Same solenoid click, no start. - The starter wire where I tapped the immobilizer in is in good shape and the splices are tight. All other wiring is tight too. - I don't think it's my battery. It started strong all day and after sitting for 5 hours after the problem started, the headlights still were just as bright as when the car is on and my system still thumps at full volume during the tow home. - Since jumping the immobilizer wiring to bypass the immobilizer relay still doesn't resolve the issue, I think I can safely rule out the alarm itself and look for issues in the starter signal wiring between the immobilizer and the starter itself. "

if you disconnect the alarm from the brain does the car start? If not try to hit the solenoid with something solid and it might just start.Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!

Your statement "the splices are tight" implies that you didn't solder or crimp connect them. While that's not necessarily causing your "no start" problem, it's bad practice and could affect the car starting in the future. Meter the starter wire at both sides of your immobilizer to see if it's showing 12V when the key is in the crank position. If it's not, check for a loose connection. If it's showing 12V at the point closest to the starter, try metering the starter solenoid wire at the switch itself with the key turned to "crank". Also as mentioned, it's not inconceivable that you could have a problem with the starter itself that just manifested at this time.C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Well I figured out what the problem was: the ignition switch contacts must be wearing out and was causing it not to start. Everything is working as it should now, thanks for all the help. Sound Pressure - I had already tried jumping the immobilizer relay using a 12 AWG wire to close the circuit at the connector between the brain and the wires. chriswallace187 - I used butt splices crimped on both ends to connect them, are you saying that's not good enough? I usually solder everything, but given the tight space I opted out. Maybe you read it as i cut the insulation on the wire and wrapped the new wire around the bare wire and covered them with electrical tape. That's a no brainer for a bad connection in the future. Again, thanks for all the help.

No, properly crimped butt connectors are sufficient. I was thinking you had twist-n-taped, but you clearly know that's not a good install practice. I was just off on my extrapolation of your post a bit. C Renner's Auto Electronix

My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two