toggle switching 2 color led strip

I bought some two color led strips for my boat courtesy lighting. They are blue or white in a single strip from shoreline marine. First of all the strips have symbols where the cut lines are...as follows.. +,w,c.. the positive corresponds to a red wire, and the other two are white and black wires,that will choose between blue or white leds when grounded. So I am assuming that my 3 position toggle switch will be wired to 1:power the strip, 2: select which color leds to ground so the circuit is complete. Does that sound right to anybody besides me? I am an ameteur but not completely clueless.   Also, I will need a 3 wire conductor for installing these lights, any problem using 18/3 awg thermostat wire? The price is so much cheaper than ordering marine wire with 3 conductors in one jacket. Thanks for all input.fiddlebick

An SPST switch for on-off +12V and SPDT to select color (to GND), else a 3PDT if one switch is desired. If they are 12V strips as opposed to automotive 12V they are likely to be damaged if run from charging batteries etc. 18AWG should handle a few Amps. Since you probably haven't bought 5m strips you should be fine, but check the power or current consumption which should be specified (per roll or per meter or per segment). Only if it's a long cable run with relatively high current might it be a problem. (Voltage drop = current x cable resistance) The 18/3 wire I see usually is common sheathed. Non-marine wire may corrode quicker. (Check your connections for heat before a fire starts.) I think modern insulation should handle salt etc.

Oldspark, let me clarify. These are 24 in strips with alternating blue and white leds imbedded in the strip, made for 12v automotive/marine water resistant use. I want to install at least 5 of these strips to accent light the pontoon boat interior from a single cable run. I keep the boat trailered and in a pole barn when not in use, and I boat in freshwater only. I bought a 3 position switch when I bought the lights from wal mart. I can't recall exactly, but I think the switch had 6 terminals, sound right? Can you explain to me if I am approaching this in the wrong manner? I plan to run the cable to the first light, make a 3 way splice to continue power and ground to the next light in the run, and so forth. I don't know what you mean by 5m, these are basically ready to mount and wire up. I am not very literate or understanding of automotive wiring, as opposed to ac residential wiring, of which I have more experience with.fiddlebick

5m means 5 meters. Your 2 position switch should a a DP3T = dual pole, 3 throw or position aka DPDT centre off. Sorry, I stuffed that up before - I was thinking 3 Position Double pole. 6 terminals - probably arranged 3 x 2. One side of 3 is one Pole. +12V to the centre terminal of one side. The end 2 terminals of the same side join and go to LED strip +12V. GND to the center of the other side. On that same side - one end to white & the other to black to select your colors. Does that make sense? Sorry for my confusion.

Yeah I got it now. Thanks for dumming it down for me. I wish I knew more about electronics, but I muddle through as much as I can.fiddlebick

Actually that was merely switching ('merely' - ha! ) which is more mechanical, or logic. And Boolean algebra was invented for psychology, so become a psychologist - you'll earn more money. You'd earn more becoming a psychiatrist, but they'd merely buy a tablet that sort out the wiring and, besides, it's a much longer course. Switching is neat because it requires no knowledge per se except that that electricity flows in a loop or loops {out from & back to the power source (+ve to -ve thru the circuit/loop by convention)} and does not jump gaps (ie, non-closed contacts; broken wires) AND that you never connect aka short + direct to -. Then there's the switches, but they're a bit like gates and fences; sometimes moving together on different floors/levels. Of course there's the jargon - not that that stops progress or solutions. But it does aid communication, and it's a great way to show that some reasonably adequate problem solvers get their conventional language confused (that's IMHO ITO = in Their opinion). Just remember - make sure your +ve & -ve are never on the same side (pole) of the switch. And be careful if they are not "12V LEDs" for vehicles. (ie, party lights/LEDs are 12V and probably therefore only tolerate up to +12.5V longterm; automotive and battery charging voltages can blow them fairly quickly).