2014 Honda Odyssey Remote Starter Pictorial

This will be my first time posting an install since most of the vehicles I've done already had all the info I needed. I used to install professionally nearly a decade ago, but I have not been doing this professionally for a while now. I got a new van last year and didn't want to go another Wisconsin winter without a remote starter. For my install, I went with a Viper 4706v and an iDatalink ADS-ALCA. The install guide from iDatalink was all that I needed for this install, except for +12 volts which I got from readyremote.com. A fair amount of the work was done on the bench getting the ADS-ALCA wired up to the Viper. In the end, the only connections I needed to make to the vehicle was: +12 and -ground +Starter +Ign1 +Acc1 +Acc2 +PTS [data]CanH [data]CanL [data]S-Net -Parking light (not high power, just a relay trigger) Here's the bench work The battery is hidden, but a simple removal of the air intake exposes it. Just 2 plastic pop screws to take it out Initial locations. I did not need to remove any body panels except the A-pillar for the antenna, because the location of the Keyless Access Unit [KAU] won't be any more accessible with the lower dash removed (at least I didn't see a better way to get to the wires). I apologize if the pictures are difficult to look at and figure out the angle, I had a hard enough time myself getting into the right angle to do the work. After taking down the KAU and unplugging it, here are the wires to be concerned with. As you will see, there are 2 light gray wires in the same plug so be careful not to hook those up backwards. The install guide from iDatalink is very specific about the location of the wires which made it fairly easy to figure out. Also, there is another picture with the parking light wire that highlights how convenient it is to have the same color wire multiple times in the same harness. Make sure to test with a DMM (as if you don't already test everything with a DMM, right?) Just as a note because I wasn't expecting it, I have seen a few A-pillars that have a safety clip that won't allow you to entirely remove the A-piller plastic, but in the 2014 Odyssey there is an 8mm bolt under the SRS plastic emblem That is essentially all that I needed to get my remote starter to be a success, along with programming the ADS-ALCA and Viper. However, I will have to add in that I had a very difficult time actually connecting and soldering the wires in. The KAU is pretty high up, and being a bigger guy (6'3") it got rough at times. There are also some caveats to having a remote starter in this van. As with any other PTS vehicle, once you open a door, the vehicle will shut off. Also, while remote started, the factory remote is mostly useless. You cannot unlock, lock, open sliding doors, or open the liftgate. Furthermore, the 'touch to unlock' feature will not work either. The Viper remote can lock and unlock during remote start. So, if you have a wife like me who likes keeping her keys buried in her bottomless purse, this may become an point of difficulty. Just saying. Hope you like my first time install post, and hope it helps out. Rauenpc

Nice write up!      Those iDatalink modules make things pretty easy.

Got to love Honda with those hard to get wires.  Just did a 2006 Pilot that was a little tight here and there.

Soldering is fun!

Kreg - by any chance have you done a 2014 Odyssey remote start before? This morning I noticed that the heather controls don't power on during remote start. Why I never noticed is beyond me. Anyway, before I start taking things apart again and troubleshooting, I figured I'd ask if you have any advice. The only thing I can think of is that I have a bad connection to one of the ACC wires, or maybe there is an additional wire that needs to be tapped that wasn't part of the install instructions. The only thing I've found in some additional searching was that on readyremote.com they listed 2 start wires and not one, however, it would seem odd that a second starter wire would stop the climate control module from powering on. Any ideas before I dive back in?

Think I would get the DMM out and verify that both ACC wires get +12V during a remote start and behave as ACC wires ( dropping to 0V while the Starter wire is at  +12V output ).  Also verify that the 4706 Flex relay ( Pink/White wire ) is programmed to ACC, Factory Default is IGN2.Soldering is fun!

Problem solved. turns out I made a programming mistake. I did know that the flex relay was default to Ign2, and I thought I had programmed it for Acc2. But reading the instructions closer, it turned out that any feature with 3 or more options worked a little different. With a 2 option feature, the lock button set option 1 and the unlock button set option 2. However, with this feature there were 3 options (Ign2, Acc2, or Start2) and hitting the lock button sets the options in ascending order and the unlock sets the options in descending order. So by clicking the unlock it went in descending order and went from option 1 to option 3 which was Start2. Once I correctly set that to option 2 (Acc2), life was good. Very happy to not have to squeeze under that dash again. Thanks for the response Kreg. Although I did come to that answer before reading your post, you would have lead me to the correct answer.

Good news!  All ready for winter. 

Programming with the remotes is a PITA.  Love my BitWriter...     Hard to make mistakes and easy to verify any setting.

Soldering is fun!

Just did one of these last week. I am 6' 2" 240lbs and very broad sholdered so I ended up taking the drivers seat loose to get this one done. 3 plastic covers, 4 bolts and you can toss the seat in the middle row. So much more comfortable! I also made all the big 12 gauge wires smaller to match the size of the wires in the van and to make soldering easier. I AM NOT going back into these vehicles to fix a loose connection! Once is bad enough! To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Great write up and pictures. I am installing a similar set up in the same year vehicle tomorrow. I have one question. Is it really as simple as unbolting the 10mm bolt on keyless access unit to drop it down? I really appreciate in feedback because I am working on this on Friday afternoon in my garage.jesy

Our shop has switched to only using t harnesses for these vans. It is not worth the time involved to actually wire it up.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*