4x10 in 2013 Audi A6 w/PTS. 3x Lock Doesn’t Work

Hello, Having an issue with this install. Purchased the 4x10 off eBay from a seller that flashes them prior to shipment. There are a very limited number of connections so I'm trying to rule everything out and would appreciate some insight from others. Simply put, everything is wired correctly and the module successfully programmed but the 3x lock remote start still does not work. I have also tried the "alternate way of interfacing with the OEM immobilizer" by using a relay. Take a look at the install guide below. I'm going to go over my connections and let me know if anything stands out to you guys. Can L and Can H connections can be ruled out because the module recognizes these connections during programming. The module detects the ignition during programming so does that rule out the ignition switch, or the RF loop since it more-or-less part of the ignition system? Start/Switch (Lt Blue/Black) is soldered to the 3 diodes, negative sides of diodes wired to the 4x10 wire, which are spliced into the black/red, blue, and black wires on the OEM start/stop button. I don't know of a way to verify that the RF loop is functioning, but right now I have the wire first going to the transponder (taped to the front of transponder), then wrapping around both the valet key and regular key fob just for overkill to make sure that isn't the issue. Remote start safety switch is plugged in and on. Brake input is spliced into constant 12v (before the fuse - not sure if that matters), which is attached to the constant 12v on the OBD (pin 15 I believe) Obviously 12v and ground can be ruled out because the 4x10 turns on. Brake output + is wired to the brake switch red/black pin 3. Maybe I should try wiring that to constant 12v just to rule it out? Siren and hood input wires are not used in my application. And yes, the manual/automatic wire is cut. If anyone can offer any insight it would be greatly appreciated. I've been messing with this since last Friday and am getting tired of driving around with half of my dash trim removed. Thanks, Zack

Would hate to. Tell you this but, when it was flashed and not set to 3x lock it will not work that way does not mean it will not program, also after looking it up on directed site says the fob will not remAin active when remote started, so even if you could start it you would have to use the key to unlock it This one is better off having an rf kit added on to it

By the way wiring the brake output to a constant 12v will not do anything it is an output to activate the brake signal to the vehicle to start, it must see this or it will not start, just try pushing the button with out the brake it will not start.

there is no 3x lock on that, you have to use a rf kit with the viper systems. You could just use a idata link alca with the dl-vw6 firmware and do the 3x locks. Still have to give up a key but will work better than the viper system. https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-VW6/ADS-AL(DL)-VW6-EN_20170109.pdf33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

Luckily I was able to return the 4x10 and ended up ordering a Fortin Evo-All which should be here later this week. I'm praying that the install goes as expected. I find it interesting that the idata link module requires the use of a relay for the key and transponder wrap. Also a little odd that Fortin recommends using 22g wire for the key wrap and 24-26g for the transponder while idatalink recommends 30g wire for both the key and the transponder. Not sure which option would be better but as long as the 3x lock remote start works when I install it this weekend I'll be one happy camper.

Think all all the smaller gauge will be fine The I datalink doesn’t have a relay like the other two built in, it has a neg active trigger that can activate a relay.