2011 Toyota Sienna, 3.5L, PTS, Viper 4105V With DB3

Hope you're all doing well. I was hoping to get some help on the wiring of this Sienna. I got everything buttoned down to the remote start part. Lock, unlock work. The programming confirmed ok with the car. The problem I'm having is that it won't do the remote start. I believe I need to wire the Steering Lock Actuator (SLP) signal position wire as this minivan has the electronic steering. I was unable to confirm which wire this is as the diagrams don't help and the wiring provided did not have that wiring location. I have a picture of what I believe is the actuator: DBall3 Module flashes red 4 times after the failed remote start, it does turn the ignition on from what I can see, then flashes orange and red (ignition) and followed with 4 red flashes. I do not get any parking light flashes from the remote starter itself; I had a parking brake input error initially because I had not connected it to ground but I fixed that. I'm not sure what else should be connected here. I connected the following: Remote Starter                         Vehicle 12v (x2 Mains)                         +12v Constant (Purple at Main BCU) Ground                              Chassis Ground Parking Lights                         Vehicle Parking Light (Pin 30 at BCU) Parking Brake Input                    Vehicle Ground DBALL 3      Ignition Status Output                    connected to Ignition Output from remote starter      CAN High                         At BCU CAN Low                                 At BCU RX                              At BCU TX                              At BCU Push to Start Output                    Pin 7 at Push to Start connector Ground (Brown Red)                    Vehicle Ground SLP Output                          (Not connected) EIPS Fail Output                    Not Connected Should I connect the EIPS to the Horn as it says in the diagram? Says only required if Pit-Stop / Idle mode or EIPS is desired. Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

Decided to connect to those wires by backprobing and same results. Perhaps the module needs some sort of configuration, programming appears to be straight forward and passed (I can lock and unlock the car).Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

Scratch the backprobing lol; I was not at the actuator connector. There is another motor at the steering column higher up and that's where that wiring is from what I saw in the diagrams. I connected to it and also connected the horn connector for the EIPS and still get 4 flashes from the DB3 LED, no flashes from the parking lights so, the remote starter itself doesn't see a problem from what I can see but I could be wrong. Hope that someone here can guide me in the right direction. I just can't see what else needs hooked up, looked at numerous diagrams and nothing else appears to be missing. I decided to use the Ignition IN/OUT (+) Pink from the main remote start harness and connected to Ignition Status Output wire to the DB3, I used a test light and the Pink heavy gage wire is sending the (+) signal, still nothing, same 4 LED Flashes from the DB3. I verified my connections on the Data side and it appears to be correct. I cut off one of the TX & RX, tried starting it and the dash did not illuminate so, it appears to be hooked up alright. Given that the Lock/Unlock work, my guess is that the programming is fine, can't really see what else is needed here.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

This is the diagram I'm using as this is what applies to my car, not specific to 4105v but to the dball3 & 2011 Sienna with PTS. There is another diagram for a different remote starter but is pretty much the same from what I saw. Been chasing what wires are required. I tried hooking the ignition output (+) from the RS to the Ignition (+) at the steering lock actuator but did not work either. I'm sure it has to do something with those wires as it is dashed out to the DBAll but have not tried wiring it to the ignition input as it says that it's not required for D2D configuration.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

I did a soft reset on the dball3; relearned again, now the 4x red flash do not occur during the remote start sequence (looks like the bypass decoding did not process correctly due to low battery when the programming occurred, low voltage). The car now cranks but only for about a one crank (less than a second), kind of like one turn and immediately stops, the DB3 keep flashing green. Not sure if this has to do something with the tach that needs learned, per the manual, virtual tach is learned automatically when one attempts to start the car with the remote. I let it try to start it 3 times, but the crank time was under so the car did not start. I may have to reset the tach to be sure, the battery is not too strong so I'm using a jumper box, it's possible the virtual tach may not have learned correctly the first time it tried to crank; however, the manual says that it only learns when the car has ran for 30 seconds and then shut off with the remote; the car did not start at all so the virtual tach couldn't possibly have learned.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

Did a tach learn by D2D method, cars cranks and starts fine now. Had to connect H6 Pink (Ignition Output (+)) to Ignition Status Output (+) on the DB3 and it learned correctly. I had removed this wire but worked fine after I plugged it back on.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

You mentioned grounding the parking brake wire and also connecting EIPS. The last picture you posted says use one or the other.

Meant to say Neutral safety Switch on the RS to vehicle ground. The large 6-pin, H6 pink from the RS needs to be connected directly to Pin-12 (Red connector) Gray/Black wire of the DB3 as well. Connecting EIPS allows for the remote start to be activated, leave it running to do a stop or whatever, then come back, though closing and opening any door will stop the car as there is no take over feature available for these PTS vehicles. I don't know what's the point of this feature as you can do the same with the normal configuration. You can just leave, lock the car and do your errands without the need of the remote start button (bad practice to leave this car running but it can't be stolen if you use the remote because it shuts off if you open the door, then you will need a smart key to restart it; so, some sort of security has been added I guess.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S

lee.lopez wrote: You mentioned grounding the parking brake wire and also connecting EIPS. The last picture you posted says use one or the other.

Ended up cutting the EIPS connection wire from the remote starter because the horn would go off constantly when I applied the hand brake. I first cut the neutral wire (also called parking brake on the manual) and the remote did not work (connected it back and the remote starter worked again), then cut the EIPS wire and no more horn when the hand brake was applied. The wire to the PTS does keep the car running when you activate the remote starter from when you're driving, it allows you to open the door and leave the car running, of course you would lock it. After this, everything appears to work as desired, so don't connect the horn wire.Honda Accord 2008 EX-L 2.4 S