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Sub box placement in trunk


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mwhcai 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: July 15, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 20, 2002 at 9:23 PM / IP Logged  

I have a JL Audio Prowedge subwoofer in my Ford Taurus trunk.  The sould quality is very good if I have the subwoofer facing the back of my car.  It doesn't seem to sound as good when it is facing the front, even when I fold down the back seats.  What the deal with that?  Many professional installs have subwoofers installed inside the cabin of the car facing the front. 

 I plan on keeping it facing the back of my car.  Should I run the amp out of phase? (switching the positive and negative connections on wires to the sub)  I heard this will result in better sound quality (not as boomy).  Is this true?

GlassWolf 
Copper - Posts: 365
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2002
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 21, 2002 at 12:17 AM / IP Logged  
facing backward is better actually. this reflects the sound waves off of the back of the trunk, giving more room to mature a full sound-wave. that's ideal placement.
if you want the sub less boomy, cross it over at a lower frequency. I recommend around 60Hz. with a 12-18dB/octave Q-factor.
As to phase, switch between 0 and 180deg. and see which sounds better to you.
Facing backward, keeping teh sub in phase should be ideal, as the signal is reflected 180deg. anyway which corrects the shift.
-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi
mwhcai1 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: July 22, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 22, 2002 at 11:45 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks GlassWolf.  I moved my sub to face the back of my trunk again and I left it in phase.  I am happy again with the sound quality.  My username changed because I forgot my password and had to register again.  What are your thoughts on using a capacitor?  Would it help my system.  I only have one amp (PPI 2360) with 360 watts going to my sub.  Would it make a difference?  If so, which one would you buy?  I like the Moster Cap with the digital display, but it is $220 and I don't think I need a 1 farad cap.  I am thinking a .5 farad cap would do, unless I add another amp.  I found a .5 farad cap (without the digital display) by Monster Cable thorugh Yahoo Shopping for $50.  I would eventually like to add the Boston FS 80's since I have a Ford car and their web page states that a 5x7 speaker has more cone area and will produce more midbass than a 6.5 inch midrage speaker.  They can also handle a lot of power, so I would add another amp to power these.  I really like the sound quality of the Bostons, but I have met many people who have blown them.  A local car auido shop says that they have had the opposite experience, they said they used to have problems with the MB Quart speakers, so they stopped carrying them.  I disagree, a friend of mine had a nice set ($350) of MB Quart separates installed in his car and I was blown away with those speakers.  He never had a problem with them.

  I agree with you regarding lowering the crossover range of my sub to make it sound less boomy.  I have it higher than it should be (around 105) because my crappy factory speakers cannot produce any midbass.  For anyone wondering about the quality of factory speakers, you can buy the crappy factory spearkers with cheap paper cones and foam surrounds at PartsExpress for around $5 each.  The auto manufcaturers definitely aren't spending much in improving the audio systems unless you purchase their high end system, which costs way too much.  You could buy your own aftermarket system for the same price that would sound much better.

GlassWolf 
Copper - Posts: 365
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2002
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: July 23, 2002 at 3:06 PM / IP Logged  
Okay lets see here.
glad the box position worked out. the site here has a great section on building simple passive crossovers with caps and coils. I'd aim for about 60Hz with a 12dB/octave rolloff (1st order) for the sub. you'll get good, tight, deep bass that way.
the cap will stiffen voltage rails. if the sub hits, and needs a sudden burst of current, the cap can do this for you. a 1Fd cap goes for about $90. .5Fd should do fine for you. Brand doesn't really matter much. It's really just a big rolled up sheet or layered paper and foil soaked in electrolytic fluid. a cap is a fairly simple thing. Hard to b0rk one up in mfging.
It won't replace a good battery or alternator, but it will increase responsiveness of the sub-amp, and help to keep voltage where it should be when current is sucked down hard and quickly.
As for 5x7 vs 6.5, if ya use components I think the 6.5" will sound better. I was never a fan of any oval speaker design. Just personal opinion of course. Look at the JL Audio XR series components. very good stuff.
Boston is okay. I used to be a Boston dealer. Not the greatest but they aren't "crap" MB Quart is quite good, and this is why you see them in a lot of competition cars.
as for any speakers for mids/highs, factory or not, make a first or second-order high-pass crossover for them, and cut them off at about 150Hz. This will stop them from bottoming out, and you'll get more clean volume out of the system with that sub too. the xover points don't have to "match" since they roll off.. they'll cross each other anyway and you're not likely to "hear" anything missing. mid-bass between 80-150Hz is all boomy anyway.. most people try to minimize that so the music sounds decent.
give it a shot and see how it sounds. you may be pleasantly surprised.
I've rolled a 5" mid down to a 12" sub without a hitch before so you should be able to do the same.
-GlassWolf
Pioneer Stage-4, Orion, DynAudio, Fi

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