First off, congrats on the purchase of an excellent alarm. The 791xv is probably the best alarm I have ever had the actual pleasure of installing. It has every extra goody known to man, and still keeps with DEI's installer friendly wiring setup. Next, not sure, but sounds like you are going module crazy, and there will be redundency in your setup. Start with the immobilizer bypass module. 555g, or the one from periheral will either work fine, though have never used peripherals new databus units. If it works like they say, you will have your windows covered as far as the fronts go. If you have to add a window module, I strongly urge you to not buy "inexpensive" modules off of the internet. It invaritably rings true that you get what you pay for.Every cheapo that has ever came through the bay has had a common failure. The circuit boards have extremely thin traces and cannot withstand the high current of the window motors, hence burned traces. Which can be fixed, but theres no sense in polishing a turd now is there? You can get DEI's 530t for about $30.00 (I think) from Micro Electronics or any other number of reputable electronics distributors. It will roll up and down 2 windows, up with arm, and the vent or full roll down features, along with one touch operation from door switches. And they have user programmable (dip switches) settings depending on how hard the windows are to roll up and down. And if still too difficult, they can be easily modified for an extra little juice for the stubborn windows. And it can be set to respond to either (+) or (-) inputs on the switch wires depending on vehicle application. The taplock seems like a novel idea, but c'mon, why spend twenty bucks so you can tap mary had a little lamb on your windshield, in the dark, in the rain? Spend a buck-fifty on a waterproof momentary pushbutton switch, and thirty cents on speaker wire and hook the switch into your unlock wire from alarm. Then hook other side to positive 12v or ground depending on vehicle, and hide switch on exterior of vehicle. Viola, emergency unlock, and if you have more time than sense like I do somedays, you can get inventive and build the switch into an inline fuse holder(the long round screw together kind) and put it under the rear bumper by the rest of the trailer plug wiring, and nobody will ever be the wiser. Trust me this is a godsend if you use passive arming. As for the rest with the power timer, not sure what the use, I guess I am not clear on what you are trying to do with having aux power for three hours? A little more inflo and maybe I can help. But as for the alarm, Rule No. ! applies...KISS Keep It Simple Stupid. This comes from too many times opening a dash to see a nightmare rat nest that I have to unf*** because some guy sold somebody one of everything. Sorry about it being so long, just would hate to see you unhappy with such a terrific alarm. May the alarm gods be with you.
If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!