92 Bronco Locks Being a Pain

I'm trying to put an alarm in my 1992 Ford Bronco. I have all the connections hooked up and functioning properly, however I cant for the life of me get the keyless entry to work. I have been told I have "Type C" locks: "in PASSENGER KICK PANEL ONLY (TYPE "C") USE drivers switch as the master switch" (http://bulldogsecurity.com/New%20Wires/New%20Wires/Wires/forbronco92-93.htm) I have tried using the wiring diagram to wire up my door locks correctly... However, when I do the 12v+ constant to the two relays pops its fuse everytime. For some reason I am getting a ground back to the original 12v supply and Im not sure where. I have no ground on the actual relay, so is it getting grounded from the actual motor and/or switch? Is this not a Type C door locking system? If not which kind does ford usually use? Like I stated its a 1992 Ford Bronco... Thanks in advance

Make sure that you have pin 87A as the middle pin, nothing else should be there. Must be 87A. Certified Security Specialist

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I have tried that diagram however I get the fuse blowing... I have got access to the door lock wiring at the passenger kick panel as the wiring diagram says... Am I wiring something back wards, or should I wire directly behind the switch on the drivers door?

If when you put power to the relays and it immediately blows the fuse, then either you have wired the relays wrong or you have the wrong type of relays.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

I promise to be good.

Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I just had the very same problem on my bronco. Blowing the fuse every time. I had the # 30 and # 87a wires from the relay connected to the wrong sides of the wires .Once I reversed them, everything worked fine.

 How do you know what wire is to switch and which is to motor? having same problem on my 93 Mustang and I lost all power to the switch's as a result,

(after identifying the lock and unlock wires) cut the lock and unlock wires, then using a DMM test one side of the wires and hit the lock/unlock button if you get +12v or not; no voltage should be motor side and +12v should be switch side