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Adding to a factory alarm/remote start


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Chris Luongo 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 4:50 PM / IP Logged  
1. Yeah, I think that'd be kinda lame.....$30k brand-new car, and having to carry two remotes.
2. No, I don't think so, at least not if it's installed with a little forethought.....see my comments below.
3. I can't imagine any way an add-on alarm would decrease the range of what you have.
Just so you know, an add-on alarm system in NO WAY gets involved with the radio transmission between your car and your existing remote.
Rather, it is wired into the wires that go to your power doorlock motors, and "watches" them........
when it "sees" the doors lock, it arms........when it "sees" ONLY the driver's door unlock, it disarms.........when it "sees" all four doors unlock at once, it does NOT disarm, because it assumes that's happening because somebody's pressing the unlock switch with a coat hanger or something.
4. I see no reason that wouldn't work, but...
A. As you said in your later post, you'll lose all the cool stuff the factory remote start does, like automatically knowing whether to turn on the heat or AC, and
B. If you expect to retain all of your factory features like trunk-pop, turning on the domelight with unlock, driver's-priority unlocking.....that's going to add a good bit more to the cost.
---------------------------------------
I'm sure the disarming-with-remote-start thing could be accomplished without too much difficulty, at least if the installer has some experience and imagination.
---The Audiovox PRO-9232A, for better or worse, is NOT triggered by the ignition being turned on, so that's not an issue.
It would be necessary, though, to wire in relay(s) to disable the shock, motion, or tilt sensors during remote start.....so the vibration of the engine wouldn't set them off.
You could also just set those sensors low enough so the the engine won't trigger them, although from what you've said about your wheels, you're probably going to want it as sensitive as possible.
---The DEI (Hornet, AutoMate, etcetera) units simply disarm themselves when the ignition is turned on, or at least they did so last time I messed with one.
---Where are you located? Near Boston by any chance?
---I did a couple of jobs today for one of the Chevy dealers I go to, and I was sitting in a Monte Carlo SS in the showroom, checking it out.
They really did a nice job on the 2006 freshening for both the Impala and Monte, and getting the V8 to fit in there is pretty awesome.
It's definitely one of the few front-drive cars I'd consider buying, and I've heard they drive really nice.
jmz768 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the reply Chris, lots of good information.  Unfortunately I'm in Michigan.

They are nice cars.  I went with the Impala over the Monte because of the headroom.  They are a nice ride but the torque steer can be pretty bad if you aren't paying attention when you accelerate from a stop.  FWD is nice though living in Michigan so it's worth it.  I just don't understand why car companies aren't including things like shock and motion sensors with their security systems.

KPierson 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  

Any possibility of just wiring the shock sensor in to an existing trigger (Trunk pop, door pin, hood pin)?  We've been doing that on our rice burners for years.  :)

The only major problem is that there isn't a warn away, full alarm only, but it works pretty well.

http://g-owners.com/article_read.asp?id=43

That one uses the hood pin, and mounts under the hood, not the way I would do it, but still a good reference.

Kevin Pierson
captainzab 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged  
Adding a shock sensor that way is clever and cheap. Would have never thought of it. But what if the RS causes the car to shake setting off the alarm?
KPierson 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged  

The 'trick' is in the wiring.  First, you must verify that your ignition system rests at ground (test resistance between the IGN wire and ground with the key OFF). 

If the IGN wire rests at ground, then use it to provide the ground to the shock sensor.  Hook the power wire up to 12vdc constant.  Now, the shock sensor will ONLY work when the car is off, as it will only have power when the car is off.

If you don't want to go that route, then simple wire a relay up to the ACC wire and use it to break the voltage (or ground) to the shock sensor.  Different cars require differnt methods, but in the end it usually works great.

You can pick up a genuine DEI shock sensor for dirt cheap, too!

Kevin Pierson
jmz768 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged  
I like the idea of adding a sensor to the existing alarm.  Looking at the information that was posted earlier in the thread about the Impala's wiring can you gather enough information on how to approach it?  I'd rather go with a tilt sensor so I don't think the remote starting would be a problem.  
KPierson 
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Posted: June 27, 2006 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  

Well,

First you need to find out what triggers the OEM alarm.  On my car (Infiniti G35 coupe) the hood, the doors, and the trunk set off the alarm.  However, when the doors are opened the windows drop a little bit, so that rules them out as an input.

The hood pin doesn't run back in to the car, so that rules it out.

The trunk pin runs in to the driver kick panel.

In that case, it was obvious which wire to use, but all cars will be different, and all wiring will be different.

Kevin Pierson
jmz768 
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Posted: June 30, 2006 at 7:12 PM / IP Logged  
What's the easiest way to get the wiring info?
another-kelly 
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Posted: June 30, 2006 at 10:00 PM / IP Logged  
i posted it earlier for you
jmz768 
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Posted: June 30, 2006 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged  

another-kelly wrote:
i posted it earlier for you

Sorry, I didn't realize that was all the information that I would need.  So from that information what would be the best route for splicing in a tilt sensor?

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