what is the big 4

basicly if your trunk is not a suitible ground  that would be the only reason to do a return ground to front chassis.  u want the least amount of resistance in your ground to begin with.. with longer wire you get more resistance. but on some trunks the capacity of the metal in the trunk is not good enuf or is not bonded well enuf to handle alot of current.  and you really only concerned about that anyways if you are pushing alot of current to the rear. i doubt that you would ever need to do that if your just feeding a 4 awg wire to the rear.

It's not current capacity that is the limiting factor, it's return resistance value.  Measure the return resistance from the amplifier ground to the alternator case.Support the12volt.com

still_walkin wrote: So did it work. Before you upgraded the ground from the amp to the battery did you notice a difference or not.

On my Explorer...the upgrades were a HUGE improvement. Before the upgrades my voltage would drop from 13.6 volts down to 12.4 volts with a 460 watt rms Jensen amp...thing is even if I paused the music the voltage would not recover unless I revved the engine. Now I after the upgrades my voltage idles at around 13.8-14.2 volts and drops down to only 12.6 BUT it recovers right back to 12.8-14.2 volts immediately after the bass hit. IMO it was the most worthwhile upgrade I've done...also cheap too

How do you determine that it ios needed. I have a 0 guage ground in the trunk that seperates to three amps 4 guage output I have a 0 guage vacant. Can I use the negitive from the battery to the vacant zero guage on my distro block . Alos if I added for say a double ground on the back of the car and wired it to the same distro block will that make a difference.

aznboi3644 wrote: -alt casing to engine block..

Why would you do this?

Is your alt not already attached to the engine via large bolts and/or brackets?

djrn wrote: basicly if your trunk is not a suitible ground that would be the only reason to do a return ground to front chassis. u want the least amount of resistance in your ground to begin with.. with longer wire you get more resistance. but on some trunks the capacity of the metal in the trunk is not good enuf or is not bonded well enuf to handle alot of current. and you really only concerned about that anyways if you are pushing alot of current to the rear. i doubt that you would ever need to do that if your just feeding a 4 awg wire to the rear.

Well its possbile that my trunk may have enough resistance I drive an older cadillac which is more metal than fiberglass. On your question on the wire response. I have my amps receiving 4 awg wire but the power wire from the battery is 0 awg. My 3 amps are (1) 1600 rms and (2) 100 rms amps. I thinking by the upgrade I might get more bang out my amps. The perform well but if it will make them perform and not make the charging system work as hard then I'm all for it ;)

I read it I haven't seen what the resistance is. Seem like a waste to run a new ground throuh the car and not like the results but so far everyone on this post liked the results so I guess I need to check the resistance them?

still_walkin wrote: I read it I haven't seen what the resistance is. Seem like a waste to run a new ground throuh the car and not like the results but so far everyone on this post liked the results so I guess I need to check the resistance them?

Yes.

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