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96 honda civic pdl, remote start issue


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bradleyt 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posted: December 29, 2007 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged  

Thank you for the advice, I'll try the location mentioned. To clarify, I want to use the RS remotes to LOCK and UNLOCK the doors. I can only unlock them remotely, but I cannot lock them remotely.

I'll be pulling the car in the shop after supper and give it another go. By the way, the diagram I have said that the UNLOCK wire is found low and the LOCK wire was to be found high at the blue connector. Either way, I'll be trying the suggestions above.

-brad

bradleyt 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posted: December 29, 2007 at 10:08 PM / IP Logged  

KarTuneMan wrote:

The lock/unlock wires are NOT in a blue plug. The are in a white plug down low almost next to the foot rest pedal. The are on the inside (towards the wall of the car not the cabin side) top 2 wires.

GREEN/ orange, GREEN / WHITE.

fyi: I found the grn/org wire at the blue plug to the left of the fuse block and connected the UNLOCK wire from the RS it has worked since the day I installed the bugger. I also found a grn/wht wire adjacent to the grn/org at the same plug and I connected the LOCK wire from the RS and nothing. 

I have searched the entire underdash area for a white connector with a grn/wht and haven't found it; but, there is a cream/tan colored plug above the foot rest pedal and on the sidewall with a grn/wht that I had previously tried and nothing. I tested that grn/wht wire when I pressed the factory door switch and it shows no voltage either way-lock/unlock, + or -.   That plug is under a silver-colored box attached to the sidewall; I think at this point I have tried every grn/wht wire in this area and found nothing.  Just as a check, I made sure there was voltage at the wire from the RS, and when I hit the lock button on the remote, the voltage drops to zero; at rest it holds about 16-24mV with the car engine off.

I'm going bald pulling my hair out on this one.

-brad

bradleyt 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posted: December 29, 2007 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  

HAHAHAAHAAAA Eureka! Joke's on me fellas.

There I was diligently tested a thousand wires and not coming up with anything. I decided to pull the driver's door panel off; I put the DMM in continuity mode and clipped onto the grn/wht and the grn/org (separately, of course) on the door lock inside the door panel.  I started to poke around on the blue plug next to the fuse box where I have the RS LOCK and UNLOCK connected to. GREEN / WHITE=nothing---GREEN/ orange=circuit; 5 volts on the UNLOCK circuit, 0 on the LOCK circuit.  For some reason, I gently pulled on the grn/wht that leads to the sidewall which eventually goes into the door.  While gently pulling on grn/wht wire from the door, I notice that it slowly continues to come out until I have a bare wire in hand! Nice.

All in all, this was a broken wire since I started this. Now, the oddity to this is that the power door locks at the factory switch continue to work regardless of that grn/wht wire. WTH? I am guessing that it is a wire that feeds the factory alarm harness or a brain box? Anyway, for giggles I ran the RS door LOCK wire directly to the grn/wht that is inside the door panel and BINGO! I get door lock and unlock from the RS remotes!

Now, I just have to figure out how to run a new wire from inside the door panel to under the dash. Is there a connector inside the door at the hinge jamb where the grn/wht came out from or is the grn/wht a direct route from under the dash to the door panel controls? It looks like the broken end of the grn/wht wire had pulled out of a connector pin due to the light corrosion on the end. I am not sure how I am going to get a wire through to the interior.

Anyway, THANK YOU to all that have posted here, it has been a real treat to tap minds that know things.

-brad

tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 30, 2007 at 1:03 AM / IP Logged  
you will have to pull off the molex and run the wire through. how did you burn the wire? must have short circuited it good. as for removing the door panel, there will be a few screws and the rest is clips. take your time and remove it.
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: December 30, 2007 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  
Bradleyt... read this.
bradleyt 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posted: December 31, 2007 at 1:03 AM / IP Logged  

The wire wasn't burned at all, it appears as if it simply corroded and broke free from its connector. I pulled the moldex away from the door side, and I found out some things I probably didn't want to know. Inside that moldex, I found at least another 3-4 wires that had exposed wire because the insulation was broken away from the wire just before it enters a plug. I am assuming it is from the opening and closing of the door many thousands of times. I attempted to run a new wire through the tubing and into the sidewall of the car, but, I cannot push the wire through neither due to my large hands and joints that don't bend the way I need them to. I may end up removing the door entirely and having to rewire several runs as they are broken. I am guessing it is a matter of time until we lose a window control or two or other control. Hmm, what to do, what to do.

Thanks again for all the advice, it was a pleasure.

-brad

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