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Help with power door locks...


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Pupz 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 25, 2003 at 2:50 AM / IP Logged  

Hey guys,

I just installed power door lock actuators in my car, and am interfacing them with an Omega (Crime Gaurd Generic) REC11 keyless entry system... I'm having trouble getting the driver's door unlock priority correct. The main problem, I believe, has to do with the 5-wire actuators...

The actuators are fundamentally three-wire negative pulse actuators, except each actuator has five wires--two additional wires serve as lock and unlock triggers. (There is also an alternate lock and unlock trigger, designed to interface with alarms/keyless entry systems, connected directly to the brain).

I am trying to get driver's door unlock priority working. I have used the DLS-3 module with three relays, and have connected it identically as shown in the three-wire negative trigger diagram for driver's door unlock priority in the installation manual. (It's really clear what wire goes where, etc. I've triple checked the wiring...)

The problem is, even when the system correctly pulses only the driver's door unlock trigger, the driver's door actuator contains a switch that in turn invokes a separate unlock trigger, leading to the central lokcing brain, and so it unlocks the passenger's door. Other than this problem, the system works fine.

I have tried simply cutting the driver door actuator's unlock trigger that leads to the central locking brain, preventing any unlocking input to the central locking brain, but this only leads to more problems. For example, I can't unlock both doors from the remote (only the driver's door). Also, in this case I can't lock anything when the system is in a state where only the driver's door is unlocked (and the passenger door is locked).

Is there something I need to do do deal with the dual-trigger 5 wire actuators to get driver's door priority unlocking to work?

Please help! I'm totally out of ideas... And it's 2:30am Help with power door locks... -- posted image..

Thank you very much,

--Mike

floaterr 
Silver - Posts: 383
Silver spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: February 25, 2003 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
If I'm understanding the units your are talking about can uninstall the wires that tell the brain you have pull the lock manually? Or is that what you meant by "cutting the wire"?
How about moving the actuator that is suppose to go on the drivers door to the passangers side and then rewiring only the wires that are used when the brain moves the lock with the drivers actuator, leaving the 2 wires that tell the brain when you manually moved the lock.?
This might work around the issue.
Good luck
Pupz 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: February 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 25, 2003 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for your help...

I've been thinking a bit. My big worry is, that the "unlock" and "lock" "trigger" wires, these are the extra two wires, leading to the brain from each actuator are not just triggers... I think that they might indicate "state," as well. The reason that I think this is, if both locks are locked, and you send a negative lock pulse on the separate "spare" alarm interface trigger, nothing will happen. It's almost as if, the brain sees the "lock" pulse, sees that BOTH doors are locked, then doesn't transmit the actual motor lock pulse to the actuators...

In this sense, the alarm is dependent on the "state" inputs from the actuators themselves. In that case, I have to have those state/trigger wires hooked up. Because I can't get access to the logic in the brain, that means that, as long as the state/trigger wires are hooked up, which they have to be, then whenever the driver's door is unlocked, then so will the passenger's door be unlocked.

If that's the case, then driver's door priority unlock doesn't seem to be possible, without some really fancy logic / converters...

Then again, I may be overestimating the power of the alarm brain. Maybe those wires aren't for state at all.

If anybody out there is following this, and is familiar with these 5-wire, inter-trigger negative pulse actuators, can you shed some light on this?

--Mike


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